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Relocating Batteries

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PM3 or EZ?

4x4 2500 vs 3500 height?

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Yes! can you say arc welding right before the batteries blow their tops off.



Keep in mind that this is no different from stock battery placement.



You will want to make sure that the newly routed cables will not rub through anywhere. On my rear winch cable I put 5/8" garden hose over the cable at all of my rub places for added protection.
 
Battery Moving 101

This has been a "old trick" of racers for years,,Front to rear weight distribution is very critical there(drag racing) but not as much with street vechicles,,To do this job correctly and move both batteries,you'll have to install them into a battery box(vented,with vent hose run below the bed) and make sure it is mounted securely,,Use can have a battery whse,one that can make you new cables,make them as long as the cables are the same size or a little larger,DO NOT GO SMALLER and make sure you have the ends crimped on and dot not use the "bolt" together cable ends,,When routing the cables along the frame make sure they are protected and mounted securely so no shorts have a chance to pop up,,One thing I'll add to this for your project is this,,If you run the cable INSIDE the fram rails I would route them thru a piece of steel pipe around the flywheel(or torque converter area) as a saftey precaution,,If you've never had a clutch explosion or a converter break and never witnessed the carnage related to it you would not understand it,,Any extra protection there you can muster up is warranted(especially in my eyes on a BOMBed truck,due to high hp and big torque),,There are no blow proof bell housings available for the NV's and the installation of a trans blanket on a automatic for street use is a deadly combo to trans(blanket holds in too much heat),,Couple of ounces of protection will go a long way to saving your truck if something would happen,,Two other things I'll add,if ANYONE who is planning on doing this does drag race,make sure you consult the NHRA/IHRA rule books for the PROPER way the batteries need to mounted and held down,and too those who install a aftermarket fuel line(from tank to fuel filter,eliminating the factory line)YOU MUST have them routed thru a steel protection agent thru the bellhousing area,,I can not tell you how many cars I've bounced at tech for simple stuff like this,rules are rules and like them or not they are there for your safety,,Just my . 02 worth. .

P. S. -I remember seeing a comment higher in the post commenting about engine setback and weight displacement,,While we can not disagree that it had not been performed(engine setback) it was worth nothing as far as performance is concerned,,Back in their racing years,Chrysler,after all the ways they tried to make cars leave better,found the way to make them hook and haul was to move the rear wheels forward 4"-6" and move the front wheels forward about 10" or so,,By moving the rear wheels forward it allowed the cars to transfer weight faster and plant the cars harder and the front wheels movement was to keep the same wheelbase,,Now on the engine thing,one thing they did find was by lowering the motor a inch or two it allows the motor to see better air into the carbs and more exotic intakes(something that STill in use today in most Mopar Superstockers today),,What did they do with all the exotic stuff they did with engine setbacks and wheel moving,you see them every week on tv during racing season... . Funny Cars
 
I took the passenger side battery out of my truck and have been running over a year with 1 Deka 1040 cca battery. Started just fine at 18 degree F the other morning.
 
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