Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Relocating the LP

[klaybus]

I'm getting ready to relocate my new OEM LP back by the fuel tank to work more as a pusher pump than as DC set it up as a puller. I've got a plan for almost every aspect but I'm just a little concerned about the wiring. I've read various posts & have been told that 14 ga. wire should be the correct size to extend the wiring to the new LP location.

On Practical Solutions re-wire kit it has a relay & various other items included in the kit. Is all of this stuff necessary for extending the wiring harness back to the new location? I would really appreciate any help on this from someone who has done it & had sucess for a period of 6 month or more.



Thanks in advance!



Clay

 

[Heavy Metal]

I did mine over 20,000 miles ago and I used the P. S. harness. It works well and is easy to install. You can also use a pigtail (used to adapt the older style 24 valve trucks to the newer style pumps) and extend it. From what I read when I was planning my relocation, 14 ga. should work. I chose to go with the harness because the idea of cutting and splicing makes me queesy-speaker wires, ok, but fuel system, NO. The ps kit is very well made and the idea of having a relay to protect the electronics in my truck should something happen (however unlikely) is a bonus. The kit came with a spare relay which stays in my tool box right next to my spare lift pump. Anyway that's just my opinion.



Bryan



BTW: I'll post pic's of my entire system in the next couple of days or whenever I figure out how to do so.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

If all you're doing is extending the existing power lead, and running a SINGLE pump, no need for anything other than the wiring extension - and 14 guage wire should be entirely adequate - Cummins sells a short wiring extension that can easily be spliced to whatever new length you need - I can get the part # for that if you need it... Adding a relay is pointless, and just another potential failure point.

 

[Ncostello]

For $25... Practical Solutions will make you what you want in 14Ga. Or you can buy the Deutsch connectors and crimp tools and do it yourself... but it'll cost you more. The pump only pulls like 4-5amps so 14Ga is plenty.



FWIW... I'd go on vacation, sit around and watch TV, or check the air pressure in your tires. Moving the pump back near the tank isn't going to gain you anything really... especially longer pump life. Just my opinion. Once you do it and still have a pump failure... you'll wonder why in the heck you wasted all your time on it. Get a spare pump and enjoy your truck.



You can look at my photo gallery and see what I did. I had two variations. The second was factory looking using the OEM filter and banjo fittings... as well as J30R9 hose like Cummins uses. None of it really helped me but was good fun... sort of.

 

[jerrethomas]

FWIW... I'd go on vacation, sit around and watch TV, or check the air pressure in your tires. Moving the pump back near the tank isn't going to gain you anything really... especially longer pump life. Just my opinion. Once you do it and still have a pump failure... you'll wonder why in the heck you wasted all your time on it. Get a spare pump and enjoy your truck.

i beg to differ. i moved mine back to the tank on saturday and i noticed a gain of about 1 psi at idle. also WOT is better. before i could suck it down to between 6-7 psi, now it drops to 7 psi, then rebounds to a steady 10 psi at wot in 6th. to me it was worth it for just that, plus the fact that i can prolly change the lp in half the time now.

 

[CEpp]

plus the fact that i can prolly change the lp in half the time now

i can change mine in about 30 min in the stock location.



im going with a kit eep sells that includes everything to install a pusher pump down by the tank and leave the stock pump where its at for now. .

noticed a gain of about 1 psi at idle. also WOT is better. before i could suck it down to between 6-7 psi, now it drops to 7 psi, then rebounds to a steady 10 psi at wot in 6th

mine usually idles at about 11 psi, but im due on the filter, and i can drag it down to about 7-8 psi on WOT on 5x5 on the comp. aint to bad but the oversized banjo's help too for the quick recovery.

 

[jerrethomas]

i drilled the banjos. didn't have to do anything to the 3/8 hose fittings i got for the lp, but the fitting on the back of the fuel filter that the hose connects to i drilled out to i think 7/32 but dont' hold me to that. i wonder how good the flow is from the filter to the vp44, looks like a small line that feeds it.

 

[Ncostello]

I had success for a year. I won't argue that pressures might get a little better. In fact I did well in that I could keep pressures above 12 at all times... usually between 13-15psi. But in the end it made no difference for me and my goals of longer pump life. I lost the "new" pump anyway. This is only my experience.



I personally found that the time savings in changing a pump in a relocated position isn't all that enormous. Again just my opinion.



As far as drilled or larger banjos are concerned... take a piece of tubing with 10 psi of water pressure and attach it to a banjo fitting. I used a fitting off of a 2000 truck... one of the ones between the lift pump and filter. Its by far the smallest one produced for 2nd gen trucks. Its surprising at the actual amount of volume you get out of one. Probably way more than most 5. 9's will ever need. But again this was just by my instincts and not a scientific method of measurement.



Moving the pump can be a good experience... and certainly won't hurt anything. But I personally wouldn't look to it for a permanent solution to the Carter pump problem. Bad pump choice Cummins... . bad pump chioce.