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Remote oil filter?

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Cummins Coolant filter kit for Dodge?

Installed a C44045 PacBrake

I saw a link somewhere to buy a really nice remote oil filter set up but I can't remember where. It had a mount that mounted it to the front of the motor. Anyone know where I can get one? I need to relocate now that I have the twins in. Also, it had the filter mounted sideways. Anyone see a problem with that?

Thanks
 
Thanks TD, do you have a link to the write-up you did?

I am a little concerned about the fact that the filter sits sideways. I mean, I assume it's not a problem to run that way or they wouldn't do it like that but how do you fill the filter with oil when doing an oil change?
 
I cant find the link.



RE: mounting sideways. Ever change you oil by taking out the drain plug while the engine is hot and letting it sit overnight? I have and about 1/3 of the filter drains back into the crankcase. With the City Diesel kit that never happens because the filter is sideways and close to the oil level.



Cold oil is thick, just fill the filter and keep it rotating while you slip it on the filter mount. Wont spill a drop.
 
Ok so I got this thing and finally installed it and it leaks like crazy! :(

The problem is that when you tighten the fittings (pipe thread) into the aluminum block you have to stop at a certain point so that the hose will line up. The hose is really stiff so it has to be like perfect.



For instance, you have to stop tightening at the 8 o'clock position so the hose lines up but at 8:00 it wasn't tight. So then I go past the 8:00 and at about 12:00 it gets tight... really tight. Then I have no choice but to back it out to 8:00 but then it's not tight. I get it all together and it leaks. GREAT!

Ok, so I take it all apart, clean everything all up and put some hardening gasket maker on the threads of the fitting. I thread it in, stop it at 8:00, hook everything up and let it set-up overnight. In the morning, I start my truck and let it idle for about 10 min. I check it and low and behold, it's leaking! :( Ok, so I drive it about 120 miles away from home and check it and it is leaking bad. The underside front of my truck is nicely oil soaked! :eek:

I am going to call City Diesel in the morning and see what they say but I am fed up with it right now. What I think i need are 90* SWIVEL fittings. BOTH of them have the same problem.

I'm so bummed...
 
You have to use teflon tape on the threads. And use an angled wrench to tighten the fittings on the oil filter adapter.



I didnt have any leaks but I used 4-5 layers of teflon tape on the pipe thread portions. The flare ends just need to be tight, this is where the angled wrench comes in handy. I can post a picture of the angled wrench if you need to see one.
 
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Actually, I did use teflon tape on one of the threads when i realized that it wasn't going to end up tight but it did still leak. :( I didn't use that many layers of it though, maybe just like two layers. The flare ends I was able to get tight without much issue but thanks for the input. Maybe I'll try to redo it again with a lot of teflon tape. I just wasn't sure how the teflon tape would hold up to the oil.
 
Well, i got a PM from Tim at City Diesel. I Love good customer service! He recommended teflon tape. I am going to reassemble it with more teflon tape and see if it fixes it. If not he said to call him and he'll do whatever he has to to make it right.

Thanks Tim, it makes me feel a lot better and I appreciate that!!! :D
 
He should be adding it to the site soon, I picked mine up last month when I drove thru on my way home. I would email or call him. He is around on Saturdays now.

Bob
 
amsoil

amsoil makes a remote filter kit and retail is in the $180 range--everything is top notch quality,i think it comes with 8ft of hose so you can mount it any where :-laf
 
Tim, I sent you a PM about this and it is not showing up in my outbox so I don't know if you got it. If not, I explained that I bought fittings with swivel ends on them from an Earl's dealer in Sacramento and they cost me 118! I said that I was going to try another place before installing them to try to find them cheaper. They are the fancy blue annodized fittings and I obvoiusly don't need that. I found some today and then just wrote you this... .



"Ok Tim, here's the most recent development. I had an appointment at Imler Diesel Performance in Sacramento for today so I had to get it fixed. I did find cheaper (a lot cheaper) fittings but for the forward one, they wouldn't work. It was too bulky and would contact the front of the frame. I fixed the side hose with the new fittings and it is perfect. I tried yet again to reseal the front hose with MORE teflon tape. At first it seemed to have worked. I drove my truck to Napa, bought two cans of engine degreaser and hit the local carwash. Got it pretty well cleaned up and drove it to Sac. When I got to Imler, I looked at it and it was leaking (the front fitting). Not badly like before but still leaking. i told them to fix it cause I don't know what to do at this point. Anyways, the new fittings that I bought were 33. xx for the pair and like I said, I only was able to use 1 of them so i will return the other. I dont know what Imler is going to charge me but I will let you know if you want me to.

Let me know.

Thanks,

Sebastian"
 
ASTAR, are those pipe thread fittings in that aluminum block where the 90 degree fittings connect? It looks like another 360 degree of tightening would do the trick. Just make sure you support the block when tightening the fittings. I have experienced similar types of leaks with NPT, (National Pipe Taper), fiittings even with plenty of teflon tape and also sealant. Those look like steel 90 degree fittings so they should be plenty stout.
 
WCPoe said:
It looks like another 360 degree of tightening would do the trick. .



Thanks for the advice but there is no way I could get a complete 360* out of the fitting. It gets really tight about 60* past where it needs to be. Believe me, I tried... :(
 
LOC TITE!!!!!



Seal the hell out of it with loctite... . I know it's kinda eeewww sounding but I bet money that it would have worked.



The one key to loctite is having a metal to metal seal... . No engine oil or anything else between the surfaces you need to seal.
 
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