Removal of NV5600 for clutch inspection

[bcbender]

Going to pull out the transmission to inspect / replace the clutch of the winter holiday. Are there any tips / tricks I should do to improve my success? Also any pitfalls to avoid? I do have a 2 post lift and a heavy duty transmission jack in my shop.

 

[RVTRKN]

The flywheel has a slight tapper to it, I'd just replace it with the clutch. Or make sure you trust the person who resurfaces it.

 

[bcbender]

If I replace it I will likely go for the dual disk, so all or nothing I think, how do you like the southbend dd

 

[Wayne M.]

"lift and HD jack" and implies you're indoors.

*JEALOUS*

 

[GCecchetto]

Anything about Centerforce out there? ....... I'm looking to replace a clutch in an 05 as well.

Thanks in advance =)

 

[RVTRKN]

If I replace it I will likely go for the dual disk, so all or nothing I think, how do you like the southbend dd

Yes, I like it a lot for what it's capable of. The quality of Southbend and the customer service is one of the best, if not the best. BUT, with my G56, it turns it into a transmission full of marbles below 1500rpm, and it is noisy. However I need the holding power due to a glitch in my regen programming. (long story)
If you don't need a DD, buy a single disk. I'm jealous of your NV5600, when my G56 goes, it's getting replaced with a NV5600.

 

[sag2]

I believe Peter from SBC mentioned at May Madness that the new clutches are quieter than to older ones but he might not have been talking about the dual disk. They are by far the best for quality and customer service.

 

[Motorhead]

Going to pull out the transmission to inspect / replace the clutch of the winter holiday. Are there any tips / tricks I should do to improve my success? Also any pitfalls to avoid? I do have a 2 post lift and a heavy duty transmission jack in my shop.

The NV5600 is going to be real HEAVY so be careful and maybe have a second set of hands with you. I have a South bend Con-OFE in my 2007, 5.9 and it has performed well. It is a little jerky on take off. I may pull it and put the all organic 425 hp clutch in instead. I have 60,000 on the Con-OFE
My thoughts on a dual disc clutch is install it if you need the holding power but remember with two clutch discs, you have more rotating mass that the synchros have to deal with for gear speed matching in the trans. I would think that the shifts could be slower. I don't need the 475hp Con-OFE but I had it installed thinking I would eventually build up my engine HP to it. I have changed directions mainly because the transmission torque limits are the limiting factor. Plus, I want a softer pedal even with having the south Bend Hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

 

[Wayne M.]

The NV5600 is going to be real HEAVY so be careful and maybe have a second set of hands with you. I have a South bend Con-OFE in my 2007, 5.9 and it has performed well. It is a little jerky on take off. I may pull it and put the all organic 425 hp clutch in instead. I have 60,000 on the Con-OFE
My thoughts on a dual disc clutch is install it if you need the holding power but remember with two clutch discs, you have more rotating mass that the synchros have to deal with for gear speed matching in the trans. I would think that the shifts could be slower. I don't need the 475hp Con-OFE but I had it installed thinking I would eventually build up my engine HP to it. I have changed directions mainly because the transmission torque limits are the limiting factor. Plus, I want a softer pedal even with having the south Bend Hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

Excellent points. I knew someone who put an early version dual disc and it was very noisy at idle no load. Hard to beat the stock setup unless you need holding power.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I used the South Bend single disk clutch, and as above recommend going to dual disk if you need it, not just because you can. Yes, Peter has done a lot to quieten the dual disk clutches. The trans weighs about 350 lb.

 

[bcbender]

I have a friend who has the single disk CON OFE and said he wished he did the dual... I dont really plan to do much more in the power dept, maybe some turbo stuff later, right now I have my TST at 3x3 (right now its about 340hp / 675lbft ) and would like to use 4 (750 - 800lbft), but Mark recommended staying below that until the clutch is upgraded. I do tow a 44' 5er that weighs in at 16,000 lbs (~24K GVW) but with 4;10 that is not as hard on the clutch. I guess I will discuss more with Peter.
My original reason besides asking about the clutch for this post was to gain some insight about pitfalls when it comes to the "actual" removal of the T/M, the DR Manual does not go into how to support the engine properly, I assume the t-case must be removed first, ( I did just last week fill it with Amsoil after tail-shaft bushing replacement ) can it be removed full? I am lucky that I have a 2T trans jack so the will be of help.

As always I appreciate your support.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Get a buddy or 2 or 3. It's a heavy SOB.

 

[sag2]

We have done my TA's several times in the past year or so because of bad parts because he was trying to save a little money. You pull the TC first, then the transmission. If you have oil leak between the TC and transmission be sure to replace the seal before you put it back together. Also if your going to overfill by a quart do it while it is out and the shifter is out. We have not supported the engine but it probably is wise to if you have the high stand available. The motor mounts are very stiff and the engine does not tilt too far down. Hopefully the jack has adjustments for tilt front to back and side to side. It also helps if you get two long bolts, cut off the heads and slot them for a screwdriver. They work great for alignment pins as you slide it in. If it does not want to go all the way home don't be afraid to manhandle it. You also do not need to remove the starter, and the exhaust mount at the adapter plate is a PITA to get free. As was mentioned it is very heavy so make sure it is strapped securely to the jack.

 

[ranger 393]

I am fixing to do my clutch as well, I have a throw out bearing making squealing. Does anyone have any opinion or experience with Valair clutches?

 

[bcbender]

We have done my TA's several times in the past year or so because of bad parts because he was trying to save a little money. .

I'm sorry but what is the TA? Thank you for the advice it was exactly what I was looking for, I have several tall jack stands so support should be no problem. My high lift trans mask tilts all directions , guess I'll get a chance to finally try it our

 

[K5IP]

I removed mine this summer. We bought a transmission jack from northern hydraulics that got the gob done nicely.
My son and I did the job together and it about 10 hours to complete the project. Getting the cross member out was the a hard part.
As stated, separate the transmission from the transfer case if you have 4wh drive. In our case the clutch was almost like new at 85000 but the clutch splines became rusty and shifting was difficult. In my case a wire brush and fresh grease fixed the problem but I did change the pilot and release bearings just for grins.
Roger

 

[sag2]

I'm sorry but what is the TA? Thank you for the advice it was exactly what I was looking for, I have several tall jack stands so support should be no problem. My high lift trans mask tilts all directions , guess I'll get a chance to finally try it our

Teachers assistant.

 

[jhenderson]

I am fixing to do my clutch as well, I have a throw out bearing making squealing. Does anyone have any opinion or experience with Valair clutches?

I don't have any experience with valair but I have a lot with throw out bearings. Buy the highest quality bearing you can. If you look between the bell and transmission adapter you'll probably see some of the balls from the bearing lying in the gap. The race is plastic and the bearing is sealed and can't be lubed. Being a hydraulic unit there's no free play and the bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate so it spins constantly.Clean the transmission snout thoroughly and use a very light coating of grease on the bearing support. Too much grease will attract debris and bind up travel of the bearing. I only replaced one clutch in 385,000 miles but I replaced 3 throw out bearings.

 

[S.Morris]

Machine flywheel and have machined to accept a 1635-2RS pilot bearing, (or replace with SB flywheel with pilot installed. SB more convenient but a little bit more $)
Use a HD transmission jack and you do not need to separate tcase.
Replace clutch fork if worn at all...........it will be.
Properly prepare release brg and input sliding points as has been mentioned.

Very carefully measure gap at top and bottom of flywheel housing on reinstall of transmission. Adjust transmission angle so this measurement is equal top and bottom.
If its right transmission will slide home with very little force. If you have to manhandle it...........your angles are off.

Double check mounting /lifting of jack/transmission. This thing is heavy and will do serious damage or worse if it falls on you.
Don't skimp and end up having to do it twice or in a shorter time than necessary.

On my 04 which I did clutch on this spring: 225K miles, clutch was like new, release brg very dry, and pilot bearing had just broken(reason for clutch). With the better pilot brg and premium quality release brg as well as new OEM hydraulics, clutch fork and rear main seal, I fully expect to get at least as many miles before revisiting the clutch again.