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Remove Diff covers for fluid change?

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Has anyone ever looked into drilling the case at the bottom bolt so that the bolt could be used as a drain hole w/o removing the cover?
 
I was just thinking that there has to be a way to add a drain plug and not compromise the housing. My wife's Jeep Rubicon has factory drain plugs in the D44's. Those are nice, wish I had found them before removing the covers! DOH! That's why the parts guy looked at me funny when I asked him what to seal them up with!
 
ok-set all torches to stun--





even my DMax 2500 HD had a drain plug in the diff--or in hindsite, that could have been one of the 24 injectors i had replaced!!!! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Doin' the diff thing.

Dealer wanted to do my diffs the other day. That's before he told me it was a 4-hour job. Brought me to my knees, man! Gotta be a better - or at least cheaper - way to do it. Like do it myself maybe.
 
Jeremiah said:
Dealer wanted to do my diffs the other day. That's before he told me it was a 4-hour job. Brought me to my knees, man! Gotta be a better - or at least cheaper - way to do it. Like do it myself maybe.



4 hours! LOL



2 hours tops, with a few drinks in between!
 
Jeremiah do yourself and your wallet a favor, do it yourself, no way in hell does that take 4hrs, I can do my rear diff. and this includes taking out the bolts, draining, cleaning the gasket maker off the cover, put it back together and fill in 15-20min tops. Of course i know the newer trucks are using a gasket now in place of the tube gasket maker. Did you ask him if they were taking out your gears and washing them off to? Wow! some of these places must think most pple are this gullable...

I would do it myself and it leaves you with knowing you did a good job and it was put together and filled correctly. On my 92 i had the left rear hub seal replaced along with the nut(if was boogered up) well the supposed mechanic didn't tighten the nut back down and left my hub loose which resulted in a leaking seal along with 135. 00 out of my pocket for nothing, i didn't take it back due to a confrontation, needless to say they will never see my truck again, and i had satisfaction of knowing i did a good job and no more leaking seal.
 
RankRam said:
4 hours! LOL



2 hours tops, with a few drinks in between!



I had my truck at the dealer for the TSB reflash on my 04. 5 and was stupid enough to tell them to go ahead and change the oil and fuel filter while they had it without first asking how much it would be. Lets just say I wasn't happy with the 180 dollar charge for changing the oil and fuel filter. They billed one hour labor for changing the fuel filter, plus $44 for the filter ($12 at the Cummins store) I think I burned my bridge with them as a I tore them a new one on the survey they sent me the next day. They also said they had a special, change the fluids on the front and rear diffs for $300. Never again.
 
MG05CTD said:
I need to do this service on my truck also, and thought I heard you have to add friction modifier to the diff. fluid, is this true? If so, does the Zone carry this or do I get it from the dealer? Thanks... .



I have an 03 and used amsoil for my last diff. fluid change. I had to add the friction modifier because I was getting rear end chatter without it.

Kevin McD.
 
klenger said:
Has anyone ever looked into drilling the case at the bottom bolt so that the bolt could be used as a drain hole w/o removing the cover?





Or better yet, get DC to spring for the AAM housing that GM gets with the drain plug already built into it!!!!!
 
I need to change my rear diff fluid so I have been digging into some old threads.



I have read in this post (or one of many others) that the 75w-90 synthetic is the fluid of choice and that 75w-140 is for "severe" and HD use.....



So why is 75w-140 used in the 1500's 9. 25" and 75w-90 used in the 2500/3500 models 11. 5"?
 
Yes, you should remove the "factory" covers so you can clean out any filings.



I didn't notice that anyone mentioned Mag-Hytec diff covers? At 25k I changed the fluids and added the rear Mag-Hytec cover as the front was not yet available. Once I hit 50k I'll check for the front cover ... should be available by now.



The cover adds fluid capacity (runs cooler) and has it's own magnetized drain plug & dipstick for checking fluid level. All future fluid changes in under ten minutes! :) They look cool too! :cool:



I use Mobil 1 products in everything.
 
When I was in at the dealer last week I asked about the diffs' and they quoted me $20 a quart for 75w90. He also said that is was required to use Red RTV Sealer. I said I'll do it myself and save some money for someting else I want.
 
CTA said:
Yes, you should remove the "factory" covers so you can clean out any filings.



I didn't notice that anyone mentioned Mag-Hytec diff covers? At 25k I changed the fluids and added the rear Mag-Hytec cover as the front was not yet available. Once I hit 50k I'll check for the front cover ... should be available by now.



The cover adds fluid capacity (runs cooler) and has it's own magnetized drain plug & dipstick for checking fluid level. All future fluid changes in under ten minutes! :) They look cool too! :cool:



I use Mobil 1 products in everything.



FNG here. I have a set of Mag-Hytec,s on the way. Transmission and rear diff. No stress,no fuss?Just pull the old ones,replace with the new ones and add extra oil?No sealing problems or leaking?

Thanks for any and all help!
 
cool thanks, i have some new royal purple 85w-145w gear oil. can i use this in the front and rear or is the weight wrong? how much will i need with the stock covers?
 
klenger said:
Has anyone ever looked into drilling the case at the bottom bolt so that the bolt could be used as a drain hole w/o removing the cover?



Ken



I just installed the Mag Hi Tec on the rear, and the PML on the front.



Future oil changes are going to be a breeze, man the Mag is impressive it doubles the quantity to a whopping 2 gallons with 75-140 :eek:. Overkill???? :rolleyes:.



Mac :cool:
 
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Hey, guys, I was talking to my friendly parts manager at the dealership the other day and told him I was going to change my diff fluid. He begged me to buy Mopar and not go to Wal-Mart. He said truck diffs w/Wal-Mart fluid were wearing out before their time. He's a friend, not somebody trying to build a ticket, so I did as he suggested. Having done so, I sleep better at night.



I can also testify to the value of buying Mopar trannie fluid. I bought "good stuff" from another friend who owns a race car shop and the trannie wouldn't shift (I have a 6-speed) without grinding. I drained it, put Mopar stuff in, and it works fine. Costly lesson learned the hard way.
 
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i agree if your buying the cheapo stuff your going to have problems, i use 80-90 gear oil and have no problems. But anyone buying the cheap brand no matter where you get if from, your asking for trouble. But im not paying for Mopar brand either, kinda like their oil filters, overpriced filters with Mopar written on them.
 
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