remove front hub assembly

[WaynesWorld]

Has anyone done this R&R?

I can't get it all the way off.

Waynes World

 

[wcjp]

Lots of info on the TDR. Check Search for Unit Bearing. I use hydraulic steering power from the Unit Bearing bolts to the knuckle using a 6" long, 1" thick piece of steel. If the Unit Bearing has never been removed expect upto 10minutes for removal. On install use lots antiseize.

 

[yenga80]

Just did my front driver side yesterday. Took a long time to get off was rusted to the spindle. Ended up having to use a gear puller and separated the unit bearing in half! Then used a good sized hammer
Along with some crowbars to beat and pry the back half off the spindle
The like wcjp said use lots of anti seize and clean all the rust off before putting the new one on. It's interesting that they used 12 point bolts on the back of the spindle to attaché the bearing. Luckily I had the 14 mm 12 point socket for the job. Also you might find that there is a steel plate that is between the dust shield and the old bearing. I left mine out when installing the new one as it was very rusty. Believe they are used for extra spacing to get the axle nut torqued properly to 175 pounds and have the hole for the cotter pin be lined up. I was fine with all that with the plate left out. There is no mention of it in the service manual. Good luck!

 

[WaynesWorld]

Lots of info on the TDR. Check Search for Unit Bearing. I use hydraulic steering power from the Unit Bearing bolts to the knuckle using a 6" long, 1" thick piece of steel. If the Unit Bearing has never been removed expect upto 10minutes for removal. On install use lots antiseize.

I would never thought of " unit bearing" was the same as "front hub assembly" !
I used a thin chisel to start & then finished it with a large chisel.
Its done now, Thanks------- WAYNES WORLD

 

[wcjp]

I would never thought of " unit bearing" was the same as "front hub assembly" !
I used a thin chisel to start & then finished it with a large chisel.
Its done now, Thanks------- WAYNES WORLD

I've heard that Unit Bearings helped manufacturers get to 100k miles before service was required. This kept the manufacturers out of Ralph Nader's eye sight.

 

[JR]

Just did my front driver side yesterday. Took a long time to get off was rusted to the spindle. Ended up having to use a gear puller and separated the unit bearing in half! Then used a good sized hammer

Along with some crowbars to beat and pry the back half off the spindle

The like wcjp said use lots of anti seize and clean all the rust off before putting the new one on. It's interesting that they used 12 point bolts on the back of the spindle to attaché the bearing. Luckily I had the 14 mm 12 point socket for the job. Also you might find that there is a steel plate that is between the dust shield and the old bearing. I left mine out when installing the new one as it was very rusty. Believe they are used for extra spacing to get the axle nut torqued properly to 175 pounds and have the hole for the cotter pin be lined up. I was fine with all that with the plate left out. There is no mention of it in the service manual. Good luck!

Were you replacing your bearing when this happened or pulling it for maintenance? This happened to me (both sides) when I pullled mine to replace the oem rotors on my 98. The bearings were still good so I pressed them back together. I've got about 30k miles on them so far. The dust shield is just that---a dust shield to keep debris off the rotors.