2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Remove Rear Seat

[SlyBones]

97 club cab. Wanting to remove the rear seat and add some of the sound insulation back there. Was wondering how hard to remove the rear seat. Can be removed w/o taking out the fronts first. Anything to be careful of.



Thanks

 

[Ted Constantine]

Bones,



i can't say for sure with on a club cab but it is very easy with a quad cab. Just remove the two bolts at the base on each side and slide the bottom of the seat forward camming the retainers on the top out of the body.



You should be able to lift the seat over the front seats if they are leaned all the way forward.



Give it a try. It can always go back in. Should only take a couple minutes.



Ted

 

[RJ2]

Unbolt the bottom, pull the bottom forward about an

inch and lift the whole unit up. The top of the back slips into a

bracket. with it folded up it slides out the passenger side.

very easy

 

[Lsfarm]

Just be Carefull

Slybones, RJ2 has it right, but if you are doing this solo put a blanket on the back of the front seats to protect the upholstery, it is easy to rip it with the seat hardware.



BTW: what soundproofing are you installing? I'm just curious, maybe you have found yet another new/better product.



If you want to really quiet the cab, pull the front seats and cover the whole floor with either sheet lead or 'dynamat type' panel deadender. The rear quarters in your truck are big noise radiators along with the back wall. good luck



Greg L the Noise Nazi

 

[SlyBones]

Thanks,



I have not decided on the material yet. A local TDR member told me about 2 months ago about insulation material he bought locally that was inexpensive and worked fine. I thought I would look into that, otherwise trying BQuiet.



I was planning on doing the rear wall and behind the rear panels. Did not plan on the floor though.



So if I go with BQuiet, About how much should I order for the rear of the truck?

 

[Lsfarm]

Have you seen..

Slybones, have you seen and read the 'noise reduction' thread? there is a ton of info in it.



I don't recommend the Bquiet, or the dynamat because of the cost. Check out this site: www.soundstop.com give them a call, ask for Don, tell him you saw this on the TDR site, he will give us a 15% discount on his already wholesale prices.



Send me an email with your phone # and I'll call you today [got cell minutes to burn] and I'll fill you in on what I have done and learned about noise reduction.



This is the 'noise reduction' thread

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=40821&perpage=15&pagenumber=1



Greg Long The Noise Nazi -- email address removed --

 

[jgil104]

quadcab noise

removed the rear set used i" glued black urethane insultion sheet on the bare sheet metal [used on duct work ] did a nice

job of quieting things down

 

[SlyBones]

Greg, Thanks for the link. That was some good reading. I am now wondering how hard the front carpet will be. I have never really liked taking out the carpet. Seems like its always hard to get it to say in place and look nice once its been removed or pulled up.



Thanks

 

[Lsfarm]

Carpet install

Slybones: I had no problems with the carpet, I even added an extra layer of jute carpet padding under it. It still looks like it did from the factory.



See if you can contact Powder Extreeme [he's somewhere in Montana I think], he may have some extra lead sheet, it is the way to go if you can get ahold of it, otherwise the panel deadener from GSI.



Greg L

 

[Powder Extreme]

I don't know how much lead I will have left over, I'm hoping I will be able to pull my rig apart this week and lead line the floor and doors etc. . I will say the lead definitely makes a difference and cost wise it isn't too bad.



Jerry

 

[Lsfarm]

Canada Metals

Slybones, go to google.com and do a search for either lead sheet, or Canada Metals. When I did this search [if I remember correctly] I found a west coast branch of Canada Metals just north of you. You may be able to drive over the border and transport a couple of rolls home for cheap. UPS and broker fees doubled the cost of my first two rolls of lead.



If you have no luck on the search, get the # from the noise reduction thread, and give them a call to locate their west coast location. The other companies I called were either two or three times as expensive as Canada Metals [probably they are the source]



Jerry, be sure to report before and after Db readings for us, maybe on the noise reduction thread? If you have enough sheet, put a second layer on the passenger side floor to quiet your exhaust pipe noise.



I'd be real interested in a reading taken with the meter aimed at the passenger door, [the meter sitting on the center console] at idle, and 70 mph level ground then 70 mph climbing a hill that requires some power to maintain speed. Make sure to use the same scale each time. [I've been using the A scale lately]



Hopefully the door work will be very effective and your readings will prompt me to get my butt in gear and work on my door panels.



Greg L

 

[RJ2]

Go to your roofing supply houses the lead

comes in 1' or 4' rolls. Runs about $2 SF.

weighs 2. 4 per SF.

 

[RJ2]

I did the steering column to and including the rear wall

and the rear quarter panels with 60 SF, 1/2 gal contact cement, 3" brush, fomica roller .

 

[Lsfarm]

Roofing suppliers

RJ2, I must have light-weight roofing suppliers around here, the only thing they have is rubber iceshield. They will order the lead sheet, but at $4 per square ft. !!



Maybe the lead sheet is for the valleys and eves on tile roofs so common in Florida? Tile roofs don't work here in snow country.



Are you happy with the results after lead sheeting you cab?



Greg L