Removing a Vacuum pumt from a 07 5.9L

[RGH43]

My new heavy duty Vacuum pump from Geno’s just arrived via UPS late today. Is there any video on how to remove the old pump.

I found out one thing from the supplier "Gould Gear" that you should just un-bolt the mount and remove it all then put the new pump on the mount & put it all back on, that will make it so much easier than trying to get the old pump off with that hidden bolt you can barely see that is under the pump. Now how do I release the Tension pulley to get the belt loose? I think I have found the square hole by feel that I think is the tension pulley with 1/2“ square hole and I can just get the barely get the drive into the hoe, I don’t want to start putting to much tension on it until I’m sure that is the correct pulley & the drive might slip out how far does the drive head usually go into the hole, anyone have a picture of drawing of the pulleys in the front of the engine?

 

[Ozymandias]

You need second person to help you, while you release the tension from below the truck the other one pulls the belt from the pulley from above.

I did it myself but it was horrible to say the least.

 

[RGH43]

Thanks for the info. I should add this, I think the Tension pulley is on the left side of the engine while facing the Truck engine compartment. I cant really see the square hole but I can feel what I think is the square hole that I should but the Drive into to release tension, laying under there looking up do I go to the right or left to release, I would think to my right. I'm laying head 1st under the engine. Tthe other question is how far do I need to get the drive head into the hole to be able to release the tension. You are right it is a pain. Perhaps if the engineers could find a more difficult place to put it they would be happier. As in most of these things today I wonder if the design engineers ever tried to work on any of the things they design, I think not. All you have to do is try to work with Win 10 to answer that question.

 

[Wayne M.]

I have a trick for dealing with the fan belt tensioner.
You need a long handle 1/2” drive ratchet, and a standard size or large curved jaw vise grip.
First adjust the vise grip to clamp tight onto the sway bar, then get your ratchet onto the tensioner. Then when you figure out which way winds off the tensioner, just clamp the vise grip onto the sway bar to hold the ratchet handle. That’s your second person. Now you can go topside and do the job. That’s how I inspect my pullies and when I change a water pump, etc.

 

[RGH43]

Wayne, Thanks for the info, I do have several pairs of Vise Grip's. Still leaves me with the question of the location of the Tension pulley. Looking at the radiator the only hole I can find on a pulley is the pulley on the lower left side, bottom area of the engine block? How much force should be required to move the pulley?

 

[mwilson]

Tensioner is on the RH side below the alt pulley. There is a 1/2" square recess on the tensioner pulley arm so you can swing it and remove the tension.

I pull the air cleaner box out when dealing with mine. It gives a little more access.

 

[RGH43]

Again Thanks for all the help & suggestions.
If you haven't tried the suggestion Wayne made on holding the tension pulley in place, try it as I did, it has been holding my 1/2 inch drive for 2 days now & still holding it now. I did have to lengthen out the handle with a length of pipe to get it to reach the Sway bar.

Now let me ask, Has anyone ever taken off the bracket that holds the pump, I may have to as I bunged up the head off one bolt on the pump trying to take it off, According to what I was told there are 4 bolts holding the mounting bracket that supports the pump. I have found and can remove 2 of them, anyone have any idea where the other 2 are. Also there is a gray colored small box or part that is attached to the front of the bracket. Does anyone know what that part is and does it come off when you take the bracket off?

If I can’t get a grip on the bolts head to remove it I will most likely have to remove the bracket to get the pump off that bracket. It is the middle bolt & you can’t get anything that I have thought of into that tight area. I’m thinking of cutting the pump in half with a Sawzall to get a straight shot at the bolt where I can use my vise-grips to get a lock on the bolt head to remove it. Anyone with any ideas?

What kind of loctite do they use at the factory, liquid weld, I had one Hell of a time getting the bottom bolt loose on the pump and some other bolts I took out to get wiring looms out of my way, guess they never anticipated anyone replacing the pump. I have two different types of Loctite the Red & Blue, I have never seen a Green one & hope to never again. I got my brothers Sawzall & started trying to cut the Pump in half but the blades were a bit dull so I just got back from the Hardware store with a new blade for the Sawzall & a couple of new thin discs for my Craftsman grinder. One way or the other it will come off.

 

[Wayne M.]

rhg43, I’m glad the trick is working for you! I should have mentioned that I use a long Snap On ratchet when I do it.
I’m sorry I can’t help with the bolt locations as I’ve never seen that pump setup. Was that a Cummins upfit or from Jacobs or another manufacturer? If it’s Cummins, register the engine serial number on their site and you should find a diagram. If it’s another manufacturer, you can contact them for a diagram. Clean all the fasteners and holes with brake cleaner and blue loctite should be fine.

 

[mwilson]

Here is a picture from Jacobs as to the mounting if that may help you. I've done mine before and I THINK I just took the bolts out that mount the pump to the bracket.

 

[RGH43]

Success, I finally got the third bolt out and it had about $10 worth of Loctite on it as opposed to just a dab as the other two had, I mean all the way top to bottom. No wonder I couldn’t break it loose, Good grief. Thank You all for the info.
Now the bad news, the Brake still doesn’t work. Went trouble shooting and checked the Fuse and then close to the brake I found some kind of a weird connector with two wires coming out going down to the Brake it self.

One of the wires coming out had a lot of bare wire showing so I suspected it was at best a bad connection, I got a small screwdriver and the wire just slid out of the connector. So tomorrow I will have to rewire that & hopefully that will fix the problem. The original wire job must have been done by a moron as there was no slack by the Solenoid putting a strain on the wire connections so I will reroute it to take the strain off the connector that caused it to pull out in the first place.

Wayne, That is a Cummins E Brake by Jacobs.
I will post another reply if my wire fix does the job.

 

[RGH43]

As I said B/4 one wire was out & as I was trying to remove the Vacuum Solenoid to get working room to get the wire back in the other wire came out, of course I hadn’t marked the location on it yet, so mow I have 2 black insulated wires that are supposed to be inserted into the connector. Anyone know if it makes any difference which hole that the black wires go into since there is no way to tell any difference that I can see they are identical. The parts manual that I have for the Cummins Jacob brake shows the wires coming out of the Solenoid into the connector but that is all. No color mentioned. The installation manual on page 9 Fig 9d shows the mounting procedure to the battery box & that’s about it. Does not show the wire connectors or joining of them, does not say anything about the color of the wires coming out of the Solenoid.

If the lengths of wire I have are the original length (3in) it’s not much to work with & there was a lot of pull on the end of the connector going to the solenoid. The connector appears to be a type that you slide the wire into it & they lock in place but I still have the issue of which wire goes to which hole? The wire (stranded) look to be steel not copper but could be aluminum & are 16ga. If this rig was in a shop I would likely have $1K into or likely more.



Anyone have any idea where to get parts for this setup if needed.