2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission removing body side molding

[Sageair]

Any hints?

 

[ndurbin]

I used a flat gasket scrapper to pull mine off the other day. I got the paint acouple times but it needs a paint job somethin fierce anyway, so I wasn't to ******. I've heard you can also use fishing line to run behind it.



I had a rust spot the size of a quarter behind the driverside door molding.



Nathan

 

[Bob Wagner]

fishing line and then goop off, and a hairdyer helps to loosen the emblems

 

[McCRam]

warm the moldings up with a heat gun or hair dryer, careful with the heat gun though it will blister the paint. Then work the fishing line between the molding and the paint, scrapers can damage the paint. The hardest part on mine was getting the remaining glue off. It took a few hours of peeling and lots of solvent. I was told that some detail and body shops have a chemical that removes the glue very easily, I would love to find out what it is called.

 

[Oil Burner]

Be careful with the heat gun. Go with an adhesive remover like something from 3M if you can. The fishing line works great to "saw" through the adhesive. Then remove the remaining stuff with more solvent and a rag. make sure you wash the area real good and get some wax on there when you are done.



Enjoy your new door dings. I got two within a week of removing my molding. :{



-J

 

[JGK]

Oil Burner is right on about the adhesive remover. 3M has a product for that which works quite well. I got mine from an auto body paint supply store. It can also be found at art supply stores or drafting supply stores, though they may have different brands. Of the 3 brands I've used over the years, they have all been harmless to paint and react only to the softest of plastics like polystyrene and ABS. It's real handy to have round the house.



-Jay

 

[Sageair]

Thanks all! Have a nice weekend.

 

[jacqnbill]

Any hints?

I have used WD40 to remove the adhesive. Do a spot test to make sure it doesn't damage the paint.