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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Removing Door Panel

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) MACH 3's

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WMonroe

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I need to remove the passenger door panel. One of the clips that hold it on broke and it is getting a little loose and it is starting vibrate. What is the trick to getting the door handle and window roller off. Those two things and some screws are all I can see that holds it on.



Also while I'm in there I might replace the factory speaker. What size is it? and what is everyone using as a good replacement? I'm looking for better sound and a little bass (the factory speaker have almost no bass).

Thanks in advance.

Will
 
I'm in the same boat here too. Gonna replace and upgrade the sound system. The window crank I think requires a special tool. I think any auto parts store should have them.

I don't know anything about the door handle though. So I hope some one jumps in and gives us some insight.
 
OK... it's been a few years since I was in the Auto Glass business but here goes!

The Window Crank Handle is held on with a little U shaped wire made out of spring steel. Auto Parts stores sell inexpensive stamped steel "removers" which you can insert between the door panel and the crank handle and push that little spring steel horseshoe out of it's grooves in the handle. If it has been installed correctly, the ends of the spring steel U will be pointed toward the knob of the crank handle. The remover is not absolutely necessary, I've done a ton of them with only a flat handle screwdriver, but the removers are VERY HANDY and inexpensive. I'd say get one. And don't worry if you lose the little spring steel U--auto parts stores sell them too.



When you go to reinstall the crank handle FIRST determine either with the window all the way up or all the way down, EXACTLY how the handle should sit--whether at the 1 o'clock position, 2 o'clock 3,4,5, etc. Determine this by looking at the other handle. Then just pop the spring steel U onto the handle with the ends pointing toward the knob, and push the crank handle onto the grooved stud protruding from the door.



On my '95 with power windows, the door panel just slips forward over the door handle once everything else is loose. The door handle itself doesn't come off. Yours is probably the same.
 
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I looked a little today and saw the clip that holds the window crank on, it doesn't look to hard to remove. I also noticed that the panel will slip over the door handle.



Are there any special clips that hold the door panel on and need/have to be replaced after they have been removed?



Thanks

Will
 
Yeah, there are little nylon "studs" that clip into slots in the door panel and then push into holes in the door when you push the panel on. The Dodge ones look like nylon but probably aren't because they always seem to break, so I would buy some additional ones. I just bought some from D/C I think they were about 75 cents each, which is about 10 times what I paid for the real nylon ones when I was in the Auto Glass business!



You can also get a little screwdriver-sized pry bar which pops the nylon studs out very easily when you want to remove the door panel. Generally if you use this pry bar the studs don't break! Any good Auto parts store which sell Lisle products should have one.
 
The door panel clips you should be able to find at a local auto parts store, however i had a hard time finding them and i ended up going back to dodge for them and it ended up being pretty expensive for about 12 of them damn things. You should be able to get away with using about 6-8 of them behind each door, so theres really no need to put a clip in each slot behind the door panel, but you can if you want.

As far as the factory speaker it should be a 6x9 speaker. I went with a Kenwood aftermarket speaker, which i bought at www.bestbuy.com for around $70 for a pair and i was told that the kenwoods were the best out of the 3 they sell there. The three choices were Pioneer, Sony explod or the Kenwoods. Unfortunately they only sell speakers in pairs so you would probably have to replace both of them or just save the other one for a spare. Hopefully that gives you a little insight.

Chris
 
yea its running off an amp. I wanna say you should be able to just use the existing wires that are going to the stock speakers right now, however you will loose the performance benefit with the aftermarket speakers not running off the amp, but dont hold me to it, i could be wrong.
 
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