Removing electric water heater element.

[Radshooter]

Anybody done this before??

I need to replace the electric element in our Suburban SW10DE water heater. I looked at it tonight, but didn't have time to get too involved.

What size socket do I need for the hex-nut end of the element?
I have a 3/4 drive set that goes up to 1 1/4". Big enough? Do I need bigger? Thin wall? Deep well? I didn't have time tonight to remove the wires and try my socket.

I know they make a special tool to remove these things, but it looks pretty flimsy, and this thing is 9+ years old. I don't expect it to come out easily.

We are 85 miles from any kind of parts store or hardware store, so I want to be sure I have everything we need before I even start this project.

Thanks..... Steve

 

[jelag]

I just did this on my neighbors motorhome... . the element was a 1500 watt 120 volt element... the socket was larger than the 1 1/4 as I have that in a 1/2 drive... I had to use a 3/4 drive socket and reduce it to a 1/2 ratchet. The element has a straight thread that looks like pipe thread but uses a rubber gasket to seal it... . I'm thinking it was 1 3/8" but am not 100% on that... I just walked the new element to the tool box and fit it up... . his motorhome was 7 or 8 years old and it just came right out...

The one I removed was coated with chemicals from the water... I put the old element back in... poured in 5 gal of vineger and topped it off with water... and let it sit overnight and flushed it out... . once it was clean I put in the new element and wired it up... .

On his motorhome I had to pull the whole unit out... there was an access hole in the back but I just couldn't get to it with the other stuff that the coach builder had put in the way...

We found that he had left the switch on with the water drained out... . and burnt it out... he's a great gent (82) and its something that he can't do today... . hes heading south soon and on a fixed income... my guess he's worth more than me but came up in the depression, I'm sure you understand the type...

Hope this helps. .

 

[MAleshire]

Steve---I've done this before but only on RVs and it can be a PITA depending on several things. Your model of water heater may be different than those I've worked on. First, I believe the 11/4" socket is the one, but not sure. So, check this out first. The next thing is whether the element has been replaced before, and if so, whether a Suburban element was used. Other elements will work on a Suburban water heater, but usually have a shoulder that is more shallow than that of the Suburban. Use the deep well socket and see if you can get a bite on the shoulder of the hex bolt. Sockets have a bevel on them that allows them to fit over a bolt head or nut easier, but if the shoulder is too shallow you won't be able to get a bite with the socket. . On my RV the space to work in was so tight that I had to use a long extension to get clear of the compartment so I could use a breaker bar and get some torque on it. I'd recommend using a Suburban element to get around the problem I've just described. I can recall years back grinding down a socket to get rid of the bevel so it could get enough of a grip on the bolt head to remove the element. You might also try using some penetrating oil if you have any around. The cheapie sockets designed for this job would probably work for you if you are not working in a tight space. I was always working inside a small compartment with no room to crank on anything, and the cheapie sockets aren't designed to use with extensions or in combination with other tools. When you are finished be sure to fill the water heater with water before turning the power back on (voice of experience). If you don't the new element will burn out in about 2 seconds. Hope this helps!



Skip

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks guys!! That is exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

I am sure it is a Suburban element, because it is the original one that came with the heater. My access is pretty good. I can get to it from the outside of the fifth-wheel. I just have to worry about the gas-pipe that runs in front of the element. I think I can get the socket and extension on it, loosen it up, then tip it out and down under the pipe and not have to remove the gas pipe. (I hope)

We are full-timers, so I can't afford for the heater to be down completely for too long. We are running on propane now for the time being.

We have a small Mom/Pop hardware store here in Tuba City, but their prices are extremely high. I may go look for a single socket anyway if my 1 1/4 is not big enough. Tonight after work I will cut the electricity, remove the wires and see if the socket fits.

Who knows..... I just may have found an excuse to buy another socket set Oo. Now where did I put that Harbor Freight catalog... ... ...

 

[jelag]

Steve... . I wasn't able to find a 1500 watt 120 volt replacement on the shelf... that is at a reasonable price... . a common 240 volt element out of a home water heater is around $15-20 at the local home improvement store... but mine didn't have the 120 volt version... I had to order one that was $28. 00 and wait for it...

I didn't start the project until I had the replacement in my hand... do you have the new element in your hand... if so, you can use that for sizing the correct socket...

 

[BigPapa]

Socket size is 1 1/2". You will not find one in 1/2" drive so make sure to get the adapter. Deep well is not necessary.



Our local ACE Hardware had the parts in stock for 1/2 of what Lowes wanted for them. Don't neglect the Mom and Pop's, you'll miss them when their gone.



Scott

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks Jelag and BigPapa.
No, I don't have the new element yet. I was thinking of taking the old one with me when we go shopping next weekend to match it up. The RV store we shop at does not have the best track record as far as sending out the right parts. I like to have the old one for comparison. My luck, I would get the old one out and the new one would not match, so there is another 190 mile round trip, just because they gave me the wrong element. (I'll tell you the thermostat saga one of these days. And the microwave story. )

I just looked at my socket set. It is only 1/2" drive. I don't know why I thought it was 3/4". Wishful thinking? Anyway, I will see how much the socket and adapter are downtown. I can buy a 3/4 drive set from Harbor Freight for $50. It may be worth it to spend some extra money and get the full set, depending on how much the socket is.

We try to support the local shops as much as possible. We hate going to Wallyworld, but out here, it is an evil necessity.

Thanks again. I'll let you know how this turns out, but it may be a few weeks.

 

[RNash]

I just changed one that was in tight. We used an electric impact gun & it came right out. There was not a lot of flats to grab on to so push hard to keep from striping the flats. Our local RV store had the element.

 

[Radshooter]

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I wanted to thank everyone again.

I finally got my sockets I need from Harbor Freight. They were backordered and took awhile to get here.
I did hit a few snags, but nothing big. For starters, the gas line was in the way, so that had to be removed. Next problem was that the outside diameter of my 1 1/2" socket was larger than the hole it needed to fit through to get to the element. However, 10 minutes with a Dremel tool fixed that!!!

Other than that, there was no problems that I have found yet. Got the new element in tonight and everything buttoned up. Will check tomorrow for leaks.

Thanks again... ... ... Steve

 

[Jim Smith]

go to home depot or lowes its a lot cheaper than the rv store for the same part. jim

 

[BHowell]

Just go to the nearest TruValue, Ace or similar hardware store for the element and the thin wall socket needed to remove and install. Normal sockets of that size are too big to clear the sheet metal without some metal surgery.

 

[Wooter]

Heater Element Removal

I used an adjustable wrench on mine - Before you remove it, hit the reset button, check to see if you have continuity (with a meter) thru the element. If you have a good circut, turn the power back on and it should work. Other wise, if you have to, the element should come out and go back in fairly easy. Put some good pipe dope )teflon)on the threads. I guess the next question is, Do you have room to work behind the heater?

Anybody done this before??



I need to replace the electric element in our Suburban SW10DE water heater. I looked at it tonight, but didn't have time to get too involved.



What size socket do I need for the hex-nut end of the element?

I have a 3/4 drive set that goes up to 1 1/4". Big enough? Do I need bigger? Thin wall? Deep well? I didn't have time tonight to remove the wires and try my socket.



I know they make a special tool to remove these things, but it looks pretty flimsy, and this thing is 9+ years old. I don't expect it to come out easily.



We are 85 miles from any kind of parts store or hardware store, so I want to be sure I have everything we need before I even start this project.



Thanks..... Steve

 

[Radshooter]

Update to the update

Another update:

Well, I got the original element out. Had to do surgery with the Dremel to make room for the socket, but it wasn't too bad. Replaced the element with a new one and still had no hot water.

Tore into things a little farther to the thermostats. Found several melted wires and lots of melted plastic connectors. That is when I decided this was getting too deep for me. My electrical knowledge is not that extensive. I wanted to know why things got so hot, so we packed up the trailer and hauled it 90 miles to the service center.

They found the problem and we were on the road back home by 2 pm. Better than I expected. When we got back to our lot, we backed in and plugged in the trailer to level and open slides. It was probably 2 hours from the time we plugged in until we got around to hooking up the water hose. When my wife went in to check that the faucets were closed, she noticed the indicator light was on for the water heater!! The shop had left the switches (both of them) on when they unplugged the trailer. The element had been on 2 hours without any water in the tank. You guessed it, burned to a crisp.

I got on the phone and called the shop 10 minutes before they closed. They said they probably should have shut off the switches. (They were off when we dropped off the trailer. )

They mailed us a new element free of charge and I changed it out yesterday. FINALLY, we now have hot water on the electrical side. No more propane.

Thanks for all your help. Also, I got a new socket set out of the deal!!