Here I am

Removing exhaust manifold

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Jacob Exhaust Brake for 2004.5 Truck with Automotic Trans.

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Vaughn MacKenzie

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Any ideas how to get around the Catch-22/Chinese Puzzle so you can remove the bolt where the heater core bracket is mounted????? :mad:

Can't get an angle with an open-end wrench, and you can't slide it off because it hits the manifold, and I spent an hour trying to pry and bend it off of there to no avail. What's the magic secret? :(



Thanks, Vaughn
 
I cut the bracket off at the tube and then bent it out of the way and used a swivel socket to remove it. When done i just wired tied the tube to the trans dip stick tube. 8000 miles and no problems!
 
Originally posted by rbattelle

Hey Vaughn... why are you removing the manifold? Putting in an ATS?

No I'm getting the stocker chrome plated :p



Yes I'm putting an ATS on! :D

Thanks for the tips guys, I kinda expected answers like this.



Vaughn
 
Remove the outer nut, then get a prybar and pry the bracket off the stud. Move it towards the back and fight a socket on the bolt head itself. NOT FUN!
 
I would if I had a digi-cam :(

I'll get out my Nikon FA and take some though and post them eventually. Someone's gotta keep Kodak in business :)



Vaughn
 
Hey whered you get the ats from? What cost? (if you dont mind). Im about to put my gauges on and i think now would be a good time to get the ats manifold on.



----NEVERMIND----



I see you bought it from the silveram03... i search us ATS MAINIFOLD and saw you sent him a pm to buy it...



Well... . Does anyone know where i can get one for the best price?? Thanks Again





Nick
 
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Yep got it installed last night :D

Looks mighty beaut. Took some pictures and will develop them soon, luckily near I'm near the end of the roll. Those who show up at Rob's BOMB party this weekend will get to see it :D



Tonight I finish hooking up the turbo, reinstall the injector wiring harnesses and valve cover assembly, and fire it up. :)



I was able to get the bracket off by laying across the engine and prying hard on it from the back side and twisting out & downward on it and it finally popped free.



I sawed off all but just enough thread on the stud it mounts to so when I put the ATS on it would pop on there easier, however due to the thickness of the ATS it doesn't clear the manifold. It's fine just hanging there for now, when I do my first radiator flush/service I'll remove the metal hose and cut a notch at the bolt hole then it should be easy to bolt back on there, and R&R in the future.



Vaughn
 
Thanks RankRam :)



Nick it's my original. I chopped off the studs for the plastic cover, machined them smooth (thanks Diesel Power Products for letting me use your CNC machine :) ) and then I smoothed it out and painted it. I thought about powder coating but I would've had to send it out and didn't have time. I'll see how this paint holds up. I also removed the lower piece and did that too. I'll try putting up better pics tonight, I have upload problems from work and that's why the last pic is all screwed up.



On the ATS I used good automotive paint (not anything from Shucks or Checker) and brushed it on. It's rated for 1400F, I'll see how it does.



Vaughn
 
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yeah vaughn,



mine doesn't look that shiney - even sitting in the box (still), it's not that shiney



glad to see you were able to hook up with joe -- i was pleased with the deal i got
 
rbatelle, with a 1/2-pint can of this stuff. Paid $7 at a local paint retailer. Description: <font color = purple>



Capable of withstanding temperatures up to 1400° F, POR-20® is also extremely weather, salt and moisture resistant. Helps prevent cracking, chipping, and peeling. You will be excited by its performance and beauty. We guarantee this to be the most brilliant, uniform heat resistant coating available anywhere.



Can be brushed or sprayed. Great for Headers, Exhaust manifolds, Steam lines, Stacks, and Boilers.




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</font color>
 
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