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Removing fuel filter cap or cover

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lmabey

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Sometimes the simplest jobs are the most frustrating, posting this so I have a reference next time, last filter change was due to a recall so once again the filter was stuck well beyond 22.5 ft lbs.
Here's what finally worked, a six point 28mm socket, with a 4- 6" wobbly extension, put that all on the plastic nut on the cap first, then place a 10" wobbly extension straight down through the electrical mess above to connect to shorter extension then use a breaker bar and slowly turn. More effective than an air wrench and much safer LOL.

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Sometimes the simplest jobs are the most frustrating, posting this so I have a reference next time, last filter change was due to a recall so once again the filter was stuck well beyond 22.5 ft lbs.
Here's what finally worked, a six point 28mm socket, with a 4- 6" wobbly extension, put that all on the plastic nut on the cap first, then place a 10" wobbly extension straight down through the electrical mess above to connect to shorter extension then use a breaker bar and slowly turn. More effective than an air wrench and much safer LOL.


It can be a challenge, I do pretty much the same as you have mentioned. Never had an issue, but sure have read some having a pretty difficult time. It never hurts to post the correct method , and most importantly the 28mm six point socket.
 
yep, same above with a breaker bar and steady slow pressure. The key is enough extension length to get above the engine compartment for good leverage.
 
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1-1/8" or 28mm 6pt does the trick I use a wobbly right above the socket to be fully seated on the cap.

1-1/8" is only 1/64" larger than 28mm and will make ZERO difference.
 
View attachment 108988 1-1/8" or 28mm 6pt does the trick I use a wobbly right above the socket to be fully seated on the cap.

1-1/8" is only 1/64" larger than 28mm and will make ZERO difference.


I disagree and why, because anyone doing their own , need EVERY advantage they can get, its a bit awkward at best, and 1/64 is 1/64, and the tighter the better. Will 1*1/8 work sure it will , but what are we talking here a $7.00 socket. Definitely 28 mm if you have to buy a socket to start with.

Anyone doing this themselves , go buy a $7.00 6 point 28mm socket, and be done with it.

I very seldom agree with you, but the wobbly at the socket is how I do it also .
 
I disagree and why, because anyone doing their own , need EVERY advantage they can get, its a bit awkward at best, and 1/64 is 1/64, and the tighter the better. Will 1*1/8 work sure it will , but what are we talking here a $7.00 socket. Definitely 28 mm if you have to buy a socket to start with.

Anyone doing this themselves , go buy a $7.00 6 point 28mm socket, and be done with it.

I very seldom agree with you, but the wobbly at the socket is how I do it also .


The stars have aligned!

I also agree that IF buying a socket specifically for the job use a 28mm. But no one has stripped their cap hex stud using a 1-1/8” socket.

Chart posted was to show that 1-1/8 will be fine if that is what you already have.
 
The tool I found that works wonders on the filter cap after struggling for 4 1/2 years.

I don't like the wobbly socket

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...cking-Flex-Head-Ratchet-H10038FLRAT/206038527


I'm trying to see where that would make any difference, the difficulty is getting the socket at the right angle at the cap, it doesn't make any difference what angle the ratchet is at when its above with the long extension.

Maybe you could explain, but it makes sense the way most do it, and thats a universal knuckle, wobbly whatever you want to call it connected to the socket, which allows it to flex, to get a straight shot on the cap. . At least thats what happens with mine, not able to get a straight shot from above, the knuckle allows that at the cap.
 
I'm trying to see where that would make any difference, the difficulty is getting the socket at the right angle at the cap, it doesn't make any difference what angle the ratchet is at when its above with the long extension.

Maybe you could explain, but it makes sense the way most do it, and thats a universal knuckle, wobbly whatever you want to call it connected to the socket, which allows it to flex, to get a straight shot on the cap. . At least thats what happens with mine, not able to get a straight shot from above, the knuckle allows that at the cap.

The wobbly socket has 2 joints and doesn't lock up at any angle. The ratchet handle can be locked. I found it easier to go below the engine and electrical components over by the power steering reservoir... rather than above the engine compartment. It takes literally seconds to remove with the (locking) flex handle ratchet. And it is easy to do while keeping socket firmly on the cap nut.

Continue to use your wobbly if you want. I found a better tool for me
 
Yup - Just did this change myself and second the slow steady pressure. I found myself giving it a little turn then let it (or me) rest for a few seconds then repeat. The way the cap breaks loose is different than other nuts and bolts, it continues to feel tight after a fair amount of movement, an exercise in patience.
 
The wobbly socket has 2 joints and doesn't lock up at any angle. The ratchet handle can be locked. I found it easier to go below the engine and electrical components over by the power steering reservoir... rather than above the engine compartment. It takes literally seconds to remove with the (locking) flex handle ratchet. And it is easy to do while keeping socket firmly on the cap nut.

Continue to use your wobbly if you want. I found a better tool for me


Got ya !! Never tried down there, I have always used the extensions above the engine.

I do have that ratchet you are referring to, I use that with my oil filter socket to remove the easy way thru the wheel well :D
 
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