Removing the front hubs

[JHumphries]

The piece still remaining looks just like the washer, except it only has two tabs around the outside edge, the top two.

 

[PToombs]

Pull those tabs with a hook shaped device, and it should come out. Then remove the next nut. You should be all set then.



On edit, I just saw the last pics. I think somebody put too many parts in there. I know there is another washer, you can see it. And I bet there is an extra nut too.

 

[Philip]

The nut with the pin goes against the bearing. The pin is towards the outside of the hub. Make sure that the pin lines up with a hole in that washer.



That looks like another washer still in the hub.



You have extra parts better take the other side hub apart and see if it is missing anything.

 

[Philip]

If that is another washer like I am thinking it is. It is in past the threads on the spindle. That is why your having problems getting it off. You need to turn it till the locating tab lines back up with the slot to get it to come off.

 

[JHumphries]

It was indeed another washer, or rather whats left of another washer. There were also two hard flat nylon type washers up against the bearing after that washer. However, after removing them, I can see the bearing, but the inner race appears frozen on the hub.

 

[JHumphries]

Also, the passenger side hub was assembled correctly. Now I just have to put it back together

 

[JHumphries]

As bad as it sounds, could I put the nut back on the spindle, put the socket on that and use a large three jaw puller, and not much force, try to pop the bearing out?

 

[Philip]

Just bottom the puller on the axle stub. The axle u-joint yoke will bottom out on the outer axle tube. There is nothing it will hurt to push against the axle.



When you get it apart just take a big screw driver and pry the axle back out a little.



If that inner race welded down you probably will need another spindle.



I am wondering why so many extra items were installed in that hub assy. The only reason I can think of would be they installed the wrong bearing and need to take up the extra slop from a bad install.

 

[JHumphries]

I'm thinking he had the order wrong with the metal washer, but the key tab in it would not let it go far enough to seat against the bearing because the key slot goes away. So, he put in the two melamine washers and thought it was right. I'm guessing that these two washers got crushed which is what added the extra space to allow the wheel to flop around. I really don't know. Thanks for all of your help. I will try to find a puller and let you guys know what happens. I'm also going to call the shop and get them to pay for whatever replacement parts I need.

 

[Philip]

With the correct bearings the inside nut stops against the bearing before it runs out of threads. Something was not right on the install of those bearings. There should have been no reason for any sort of spacers.

 

[JHumphries]

I haven't had the time or the inkling to work on this truck until recently. I have tried several methods to get this hub apart with no success. I am now trying to pull the whole assembly, steering knuckle and all. The problem is, with the axle shaft still in(I can't remove it until the hub comes off) there is not enough play to remove the knuckle with the axle shaft installed. I am trying to remove the upperknig pin. It looks like a 7/8" Allen tool will do the job, but I can't find anything that big, unless its made of brass. I saw an older post about using a spark plug socket. I'm still trying to find a size that has that size end on it. If anyone else has any ideas, I am more than willing to hear them.

 

[JHumphries]

I spent a couple of days searching for this tool before I made a post. Five minutes after I posted, I found a 3/4" drive impact socket on 4wd Factory's site. It's only $37. 00. It's on order.