Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) replace rear rotors on 01 3500, what a joke!

[paulsmith]

Let my rear brakes go too far, need to replace the rotor or have it turned... ... .....

Looks like I have to:

Pull the caliper
remove the caliper bracket
remove the Axle
remove some sort of special nut clip
remove axle nut
pull entire bearing hub assy
remove rotor from hub
pound out all eight studs from rotor

pound in studs and put all back...

So, i need a special socket for the axle nut correct? (two days from NAPA)
I need a new nut lock clip (no luck finding that so far!)

nothing is in stock anywhere, most of the parts guys I talk to are lost... .


should you not resurface your rotors at each brake job? I consider this a mormal maint. job, I cant belive this takes this massive amount of work!

STOP ME IF I AM WRONG HERE!

Paul Smith

 

[AKAMAC]

Your all worried about nothing.



Just pull the caliper, (you have to do this anyways to replace pads) pull the caliper hanger, remove star clips (I just split them with a chisel, use eye protection) and pull the offending member off.



If it is rusted on a few wacks should break it loose. Oo.

 

[paulsmith]

Are we talking about the same truck? Disc Brakes on back? I dont see any star clips. Someone else said it is supposed to just slip over the studs, but it does not look like it does. there is a cast spacer between the rotor and the hub..... Or is this all a part of the rotor?

 

[AKAMAC]

The star clips are the four gold clips on four of the studs that are flat washers designed to hold the rotor in place during assembly. They are disposable and don't have to be replaced. The rotor is one piece and is normally a loose fit over the studs. I live in a salt free state so you may have different results. Just be happy you don't have to pull the axles. Mike

 

[Johnny5]

I thought 3500's still had the long procedure to remove the rotors. My 2500 has the star clips but when I was doing my first brake job I checked the manual and amazed by how much I had to do only to find out I was reading in the 3500 section and with my 2500 all four corners just slip off.

 

[paulsmith]

What you are describing does not sound like mine. I have pulled drums on the other trucks, fine. But I see no star washers, and like i say, looks like it is "behind" the hub. It is up at my shop, but i will run back up and smack it a few times with a sledge, see what shakes loose.

Paul

 

[AKAMAC]

Paul, I just realised you have the 3500. I am now going to crawl into a corner and beat myself with a book and remember to read EVERYTHING.

Sorry, I don't know diddley about dana 80s. Mike

 

[georgej]

Paul

I ,too ,have a 3500 and wondered how much work it is to remove the rear rotors! If they're not grooved too bad and can be turned or ground, I remember a small rotor grinding unit that mounts in place of the caliper and grinds the rotor while the engine turns it at idle. They were used on some front drivers in the '80s. Check with a dealer or a mobile brake job outfit. .

 

[paulsmith]

I think i have attached a couple of pictures.

 

[paulsmith]

As you can see, looks like all one piece. There is no seam at or around the studs. Best I can figure, I will find bolts inside the drum once I get the whole thing off.

Paul

 

[paulsmith]

Well, from the lack of replies, it looks like I am on my own here... .



I guess I start tearing down the rear end, see if I can figure this out...



Paul Smith

 

[LRundberget]

According to the Dodge service manual for my 2004, it looks the same as your pictures. There should be some bolts on the inside of the hub to separate the rotor from the hub. Your on the right track. The hub to rotor bolts should be torqued to 95ft lbs for reassembly.

 

[paulsmith]

So, once i buy the special socket, destroy the locking nut tab thingy, and remove the entire hub-bearing-seal assy from the axle housing, i can look up inside the disc and will see eight bolts that bolt it to the drive hub...



At least i dont have to pound out the wheel studs

 

[PC12Driver]

Yeah, you're on the right path. When I had mine off I upgraded the spindle nuts to a version without the destroy-to-remove tab. Quad 4x4 has a kit available.

 

[Johnny5]

paul, what part of chi-town are you located in? I could let you borrow the factory manual if you want. I'm up in Island Lake but work in Schaumburg but I'm sure we could figure out a way to get you the manual...

 

[paulsmith]

Actually a few miles west of Joliet. I just got it back together. A bit of a PTA. I bought a new nut retainer, but once i saw the new one, I just popped out the old one. Used a screw driver and just pulled it right out. Used the special socket to take off the nut.....

What the heck, for future referance.

2001 3500 Dually 4 wheel disc.
Remove rear rotor disc:

Remove tires, 15/16 socket

Remove caliper, 13mm socket, two bolts
C clamp to compress the caliper a little to remove, it must slide off the brake shoes. One end tilts out, the other end hooks on.

Tie or secure caliper out of the way, not hanging by the hose!

Remove the caliper bracket from the back. Two large 13/16 bolts (mayber metric, but that is what I used)

Remove axle boles, the small bolts in the end, eight of them I think, 13 mm

Slide the axle out, and put it in a clean spot

Look up in the axle tube, you will see a nut, looks like a plumbing nut on a sink drain. Tube is keyed, and a small metal wedge clip is drove in to the key, and cuts into the nylon on the nut. Just get a screw driver and pry it straight back out, easy.

Takes a special 2 9/16" socket, made by KD tools, to take the nut off. Got the socket from NAPA. Stamped steel socket, 3/4" drive, so get a adpater if you dont have a 3/4" ratchet.

Take off the nut.

Pull the hub/rotoe assy off about 1 inch, and the outer bearing will fall off in your hand (catch it)

Now, get a good grip, and slide the hole mess off... It is heavy! The park brake shoes are inside the rotor/drum.


Inside the rotor, are eight 15 mm bolts with locktite, at about 9000000 ft pounds of torque (well, wicked tight anyway!)

Used a crow bar wedged between the wheel studs to hold it from turning, and a breaker bar to break them loose. I have a Ingersol Rand 231 and a new Titanium Air impact. Either will break loose the wheel lug nuts, but would not come close to breaking these loose.

Take them out, clean everything up, put the new drum on, new lock tite the bolts etc.

Carfully slide the assy back onto the axle, BE CAFEFUL not to catch that seal putting it on (or taking it off)

Put the outer bearing back in, run the nut back on.

Now, I need some one else to chime in here. I put together trailer axles all the time, so that is what i did here, and some one needs to correct me if I am wrong:

Run the nut all the way in, turning the hub as you go, when the nut is tight, the hub will get hard to turn. Keep turning the hub, to seat the bearings all the way. Now back off the nut about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Anyway, drive the keeper back in, put the axle back it with the gasket, and put eveything back together.

I will edit if someone correct me. I will fix my truck if I did something wrong

Paul smith

 

[n7gxz]

Here are the instructions from the manual on setting up the bearings.



(9) Install the hub bearing adjustment nut. Use Socket DD-1241-JD to install the adjustment nut.

(10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N·m (120-140 ft. lbs. ) while rotating the wheel.

(11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to provide 0. 001-inch to 0. 010-inch wheel bearing end play.



Kevin

 

[KTobin]

I just did my rear discs and pads on my 02. You will need to jack up the rear end and chock the wheels, do not put the emerg. brake on. Pull the wheels and axle flange. If you're careful, you can re-use the brass gasket. Use Pull the brass locking pin by wiggling it with a set of needle nose, as you pull it. If you're careful her, you can also re-use the pin. With a 2 9/16 axle wrench socket, and a 1/2 inch ratchet, remove the axle nut. Pull the axle. give the rotor and hub assembly a couple swats and pull them as one. The emerg. brake shoes are inboard and the assembly should slide right over them if they are not tight against it. If you are going to turn the rotor, no need to separate the hub from the rotor to turn it as it is a real pain. Pull the inner oil seal and remove both sets of bearings. Many machine shops will turn the rotors right on the bearing races. Repack the bearings, tap in a new seal and slide the assembly back over the emerg brake shoes. Install axle nut and torque to between 120 and 140 foot Lbs while spinning the rotor, now back it off 1/4 turn. Install the brass locking clip and clean axle flange and brass basket. smear a thin layer of silicone on both surfaces and bolt together.

hope this helps

Kevin

On reading, I see I've put the cart before the horse. Pull axle, then axle nut, replace axle nut, then axel.