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Replaced FCA still not fixed

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rear axle howl

Truck stumbles under load

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My problem started last year. Bad ilde hard starting would run smooth once everything cleared up. Sometimes it would start fine and run good for weeks. Replaced my batteries in September. Truck has ran great until last week. Hard to start missing idle. Increasing RPM clears up the skip runs great at hwy speeds. Replaced the FCA today. Will not start it is trying to hit but will not run. Unplug the FCA will start right up 1500 rpm and pinging. plug it back up no start. Help.....
 
Injectors.



I had the exact same sypmptons last year in June. 2K miles from home with a 36' fifthwheel in tow, my truck left me and the family stranded.
 
Please attempt to re-torque your cross tubes first, that way you know they were not the culprit to begin with.



If you go straight to replacing injectors, guess what? The cross tubes have to be torqued in the process of an injector install, now it starts. The process to re-torque the tubes is not that difficult(except #6), and free if you are able to do it yourself.



It may not be a permanent fix, depending if, and how long they have been leaking. But as soon as you start checking their torque, you will know pdq whether or not it could be the problem. Even if they only require a 1/4 turn to get them to torque(37ft lbs), that's enough to cause them to leak, and for your truck to behave the way it is. Sure beats the price to replace injectors prematurely.
 
I use a flex head clicker torque wrench and a flare nut crow's foot to torque the nuts. Also your pop off (return) valve could be damaged.
 
Is that what they call the cascade over flow valve? If so I would like to start there instead of the crossovers. I guess what puzzels me is how this could go away for 5 months and not be a sensor or electrical. Like I said after new battries in Sept. it was running great till last week.
 
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