Replaced rotors...no more brake pull

[azcummins]

Last night I replaced my front rotors after I really screwed one up with a brake pad worn down to the studs. I could have gotten away with just one, but I wanted to keep everything bilateral so I did them both.



I'll be doing a technical write up on it soon in case anyone wants/has to do this themselves. I could have had the local chain brakes place do it, but they wanted over $300 and I got it done for under $200.



After driving it around some today I've noticed my brake pull is gone. I think it will come back but it is gone for now. Has anyone with the brake pull had their rotors done only to have the problem come back again?

 

[CLorox]

Rotors turned

I had my rotors turned about a year and a half ago by the stealer and my brake pull was gone until last week. I haven't pulled the wheels yet, but I suspect my front pads scored them. Hopefully my JC-jipme titaniums will be here this week and I can evaluate if replacements are needed.



Did you end up going with an aftermarket rotor? If so where did you pick them up? I look forward to any technical writeup you come up with.



-Adam

 

[Sean Flanagan]

Most of the time the brake pull is caused by sticking caliper pins. If it starts to pull, pull the pins out, clean them, re-grease them and put them back in.



On my truck, every time the brake pull gets annoying, I do this and it goes away.



Grit and grime gets in them especially if you drive off road. The newer trucks (01 on up I think) have boots to reduce the contamination.

 

[srawleigh]

Rotor Replacement Options

I have had good success with aftermarket rotors. I have used Cross Drilled Rotors and their brake pads from Stillen Motorsports

(http://www.stillen.com/brakes/rotors/rotors.html).



I immediately noticed (after breakin period) improved breaking performance, plus the rotors and pads lasted 80K miles with no warping! I always replace rotors and pads together. My experience is that once a rotor warps, it will warp again - even after having it turned.



Everyone knows that heat causes break rotors to warp. What most people don't understand is that once a rotor is warped, the crystaline structure is permantly altered. After a warped rotor is turned to smooth is our, it will return to being warped again as soon as enough heat has built up into the rotor.



Another option is to check out Frozen Rotors (www.frozenrotors.com). They use a cryogenic process to improve the performance of "stock" rotors. They also offer slotted rotors for even more performance, but increased pad wear will result. I have not used frozen rotor products personally, but I know several people that use them religiously on the weekend race cars and swear by them. These are expensive toys (too rich for my blood - Porsche, BMW, etc. ), but the results are impressive.



In my opinion, this is one easy, relatively low cost way to improve the breaking performance and pad/rotor life of your vehicle. All of my vehicles get upgraded rotors at the first pad change and I have not gone less than 80K miles on a set of pads and rotors, where I was getting 20K miles on an OEM set previously.



I am not associated with either of these companies. I am sharing a positive experience that I have personally had as well as some friends of mine that run their cars much harder than most of us run our trucks.



Hope this helps.