Replaced the "Killer" Grid Heater Bolt

[Ozymandias]

Sounds good to me.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Just gave mine the wiggle test. Had zero movement and felt very solid. I would say I have some time. I guess since mine doesn’t cycle as much, it hasn’t had as much wear. I’ll wait til the weather cools down and hopefully get it done. I really need to check/adjust the valves while I’m doing everything.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Did mine today, took a couple hours. From the looks of it, mine probably would have lasted quite a while longer, but now it’s done. The horn was packed with soot as was the area underneath the plenum plate thing.
Anyone know what the purpose of the molded foam around the injector lines is?

 

[Diesel85]

Did mine today, took a couple hours. From the looks of it, mine probably would have lasted quite a while longer, but now it’s done. The horn was packed with soot as was the area underneath the plenum plate thing.
Anyone know what the purpose of the molded foam around the injector lines is?

Probably to dampen the noise.

 

[Topzide]

Per the FSM; "Noise Suppression Insulation". Was a real pain to get it both off and back in! I guess with the location being just under the cowl, there must've been a lot of noise transfer to the cab.

 

[Grumpy8811]

Per the FSM; "Noise Suppression Insulation". Was a real pain to get it both off and back in! I guess with the location being just under the cowl, there must've been a lot of noise transfer to the cab.

no thought is ever given to anyone who might have to perform mechanical work in certain areas..

 

[Signal73]

Per the FSM; "Noise Suppression Insulation". Was a real pain to get it both off and back in! I guess with the location being just under the cowl, there must've been a lot of noise transfer to the cab.

Mine came off and never went back on. No noise difference noted.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I did not put mine back in. Where the ends of the foam were resting on the injector lines, there were rust spots. No need to promote any more of that.

 

[Signal73]

Same for the tampon between the oil pan and bellhousing. Rust sponge if you ask me.

 

[Tuesdak]

@Tuesdak, when you do yours, I'd be curios to see how much soot you encounter.

Not much to see at ~63K miles. Haven't towed as much as predicted (or in the past) vs. DD.

It's a bigger job than expected. You would think intake horn only has to come off... Before we started pulling the lines. Still in progress.

Found the remains of the start of a nest till they figured out it got too hot... Had one in the passenger fender awhile ago.

 

[Topzide]

@Tuesdak, Thanks for posting the pics. What a difference between mine and yours! Of course 100K+ in mileage and software. I'll have to pull my intake horn after about 60K with the new software, and see what it looks like at that time. Time will tell.

 

[Tuesdak]

Just gave mine the wiggle test

This test is USELESS!!!

You are wiggling the wrong bolt. You can't wiggle the internal bolt as it's on the other end of the plastic top buss-bar. The plastic assembly is jammed in the aluminum base and has a pass through insulator, orange in the picture, helping keep it feeling tight. I took the nut off the buss bar. I had to press the stud out before it "moved".

That right with the nut that falls off REMOVED there is NO MOVEMENT!

 

[Tuesdak]

Wrapped mine up today with a buddy's help.

We couldn't get any of our tools on the #6 injector line at the head with enough movement to break it loose. So we left it in place as well as the rear wire connector on the fuel rail. The line will flex enough to allow the unbolted fuel rail to be moved out of the way enough to get the grid heater assembly out.

Again it's a job. It took longer to get the wire connectors off, 2 evenings, than to put it back together 1 evening.

Underside of the grid heater with OEM part.

BD kit installed.

 

[Topzide]

@Tuesdak, Now that you've fought the battle of the install, your thoughts about the upgrade? Was it worth it? I like your explanation about the wiggle test. That never crossed my mind when doing the upgrade.

I was able to get all the lines off of both fuel rail and injectors. Used line wrenches and was basically laying on top of motor! Was standing on a work platform with grille removed. Only pain was torquing the lines back on! That's where the crows foot line wrenches came in handy!

Time frame was similar for when I did mine. Just wish I had a helper! Thanks for taking the time to post pics along the way.

 

[p-Bar]

Great write-up and pics. I'm in southern commiefornia and never wait to start although I think the grid cycles off and on. Has anyone made up a circuit to fool the ECU so I can disconnect the b+ going to the solenoid? I know it will throw a code. If not a schematic of that circuit would be great. Thanks

 

[Tuesdak]

Now that you've fought the battle of the install, your thoughts about the upgrade? Was it worth it?

Finding out the 67A recall uses the grid heater more I feel better about doing this. I removed one known to fail nut out of the intake so my odds are 50% or more better.

Yet I have heartburn X2 over this.

I have reached out to Genos Garage and suggested they recall the wiggle test document and advice.

I also called BD as the online instructions dated 1 Nov 2024 are way different than my kit's instructions dated 27 May 2024. The biggest difference is my instructions have the bolt at the heater carrying the current as the BD buss bar is on the other side of the support from the heater. This is different than the OEM buss bar. Turns out there are TWO VERSIONS of the kit. The buss bar is different in version 2 of the kit and contacts the grid heater directly Vs sending the current through the bolt. BD will update the online instructions. I am waiting on a call back as to "Why?" the change.

 

[Wiredawg]

I'll bet this tool would make this job easier.
Topside Creeper.

 

[Learjet]

I feel better about just leaving mine disconnected here in the south. Just had 67A recall done...we'll see if that causes any issues.

 

[p-Bar]

Learjet does it throw a code with the disconnect? Did you just pull the large wire going to the heater?

 

[Learjet]

Learjet does it throw a code with the disconnect? Did you just pull the large wire going to the heater?

No codes as long as I don't wait to crank or use the remote start when it's cold. Been disconnected for a couple of years now. I forgot one time and used the remote start when it was cold, just had to clear the code with my scan tool...No big deal.

Also, I disconnected the wire from the battery to the relay. Easy to store and re-attach if needed. Just follow the wire from the relay to the battery and disconnect there if you want and zip tie it out of the way.