2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacement Hub / Bearing Assembly which brand?

[fallbrookjeff]

I have a 98. 5 3500 Q-cab 4x4. While replacing front rotors the hub/bearing assemblies pulled apart. I cleaned, repacked bearings and pressed them back together. Now I have front axle vibration. I also realized that the units are NOT supposed to be serviceable…oops.

The Dodge dealer thinks his units are solid gold. On line, I’ve found 'Timkin' & 'National' brands; any thoughts on which brand is better? Or a particular site from which to purchase? These units keep the front wheels on the truck…kind of important…. .

Any advice would be appreciated.



Thanks in advance, Jeff

 

[tshort]

I've always dealt with Home. Great guy and good prices. Lots of tech info as well.

Ryan.

 

[EDankievitch]

One word "Dynatraxx"

Do the feree wheel kit save your gas and your transfer case and everything else from needlessly spinning. The kit is servicable unlike the stock stuff.

 

[RLHannink]

I've had good luck so far with Napa assemblies, which I think are Timken, could be wrong. I would say just put the replacement parts on, way easier. Your doors and bed will disintegrate before the next time you have to replace the front wheel bearings... At least mine are.

That being said, if the body on mine was in primo shape I'd spring for the Dynatrac setup.

 

[WrenchRat]

Timken, Timken, Timken.



Given the importance of this particular component on our trucks, I won't trust mine to anything other than TIMKEN. While once only an expensive dealer offering, AutoZone and others now offer Timken units.



National makes primarily oil seals and likely has someone manufacture their bearing offering(s) for them. Don't know who that is for the unit bearing. Maybe someone here knows?



And yes, the Dynatrac kit is a great alternative to the unit bearing as you get the old style hub/loose bearing design. A very serviceable and dependable design. A little pricey, but a good option. (The current unit design, IMO, was just for cost savings and ease of production assembly. Having worked on the supplier end of things with Detroit, I can tell you they are rabid about cost reductions. ) The only disadvantage I could see with the Dynatrac offering was that it did not include an ABS tone ring/connection for those of us with ABS. OTH, maybe losing the ABS on my '99 wouldn't be all bad.



A tip when replacing these unit bearings. These unit hubs tend to stick in the pilot bore of the knuckle and can be a real wrestling match to get out. Be sure to put a little anti-seize on the pilot contact surfaces, as well as the axle splines so the next bloke can get them apart without resorting to a slide hammer or worse.

 

[SSolderitch]

What is the price range for the Timkin aftermarket hubs? I priced mail order OEM at about $400 ea (for my 2001). What kind of milage are they wearing out at?

 

[Batphreak]

One word "Dynatraxx"
Do the feree wheel kit save your gas and your transfer case and everything else from needlessly spinning. The kit is servicable unlike the stock stuff.

Not true with the trucks like Jeff's that have a Center Axle Disconnect, the only part of the front driveline spinning is the spiders in the diff spinning the center-axle opposite the driver's side wheel. The Dynatrac kit is great for the right application, for instance if you wheel a lot and dunk the hubs in mud all the time. However, since they are the price of about 4 sealed hub units it's a pretty expensive replacement for those unit bearing hubs.

$0. 02, I'm sure the free-spin kit guys will chime in now.

 

[RJWEST]

emsoffroad, cheaper than dynatrac, not much more than
2 hubs ( @400 ea )

 

[WDaniels]

Unless something has changed, last time I checked, Dynatrac did not make a kit for the 97 and older rigs with 4 wheel anti-lock brakes.

WD

 

[EDankievitch]

The dynatraxx kit does have the tone ring for the anti-loc breaks. I'm not sure about the older trucks but how much has changed? As for the central axel disconect is a weak link in the system... .

 

[fest3er]

... A tip when replacing these unit bearings. These unit hubs tend to stick in the pilot bore of the knuckle and can be a real wrestling match to get out. Be sure to put a little anti-seize on the pilot contact surfaces, as well as the axle splines so the next bloke can get them apart without resorting to a slide hammer or worse.

SSL has noted this a number of times, and I like quoting him.

Use a suitable long bolt in the top front bolt hole, screw it all the way in. Then use the power steering to push the hub off. There's a 'perch' behind the knuckle that works well. Turn the wheel until your 'tool' connects, then give the wheel a couple solid thunks. If it doesn't want to pop off, switch to a rear bolt hole to walk the hub off.

Attached are pictures of what I used. I bought two grade 8 bolts at a True Value hardware store; I ended up needing only one, since the hub popped loose and dern near fell off with only a couple solid thunks of the steering wheel.

You'll note that the OEM threads are the 'weird' kind, and threads on the True Value bolts are 'standard'. So long as you thread the bolt all the way in, the threads won't be harmed.

Be sure to wirebrush all the rust off the hub center and the axle housing mount, and apply a thin coat of anti-seize to both. This'll reduce rust and let the hub pop off easier the next time.

Your mileage may vary.

 

[Batphreak]

emsoffroad, cheaper than dynatrac, not much more than
2 hubs ( @400 ea )

That just isn't true. Check the website, the SRW 2500 and 3500 kits are $1175 for both front hubs. Unless my math is wrong that's over $550 ea. Check Rockauto.com, they have the hubs for under $200 ea, even made by Timken.

 

[Dave M]

"fest3er" That's a neat trick for popping out the hub. Do you have a trick for pressing in the front axle bearings into the carrier? Mine has been leaking since replacing front rotors. The seals with install kit with tools is $150 from Quad 4x4 but the seals are only $10 apiece. Sorry... this has been on my mind now for awhile.



Sorry to high-jack this thread.



... . and now... back to your regularly scheduled thread... uuh... hum.



Dave

 

[Davcruz]

emsoffroad, cheaper than dynatrac, not much more than

2 hubs ( @400 ea )

It is actually $1375 for the kit...



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[DieselDoghouse]

and as to fest3er's comments; OH YEAH!! I just redid the front with MOOG parts after about 136K having cleaned and never seized last time. Both hubs lifted out of the knuckles in my hands—but they were certainly secure for the 136K!

 

[B KIRK]

Go with the Timken parts.

As for the CAD being a weak point, I've never had any trouble with the collar on mine.

4WD launches with 38. 5" tires.

But I blew apart plenty of Dana 60 lock-out hubs doing less.

I'll stick with my CAD unit.



Brad

 

[fallbrookjeff]

Thanks for the advice, I checked my local NAPA and thier units are Timken. NAPA's 'account' price was only $10 more than the best price I could find on the NET, and are within walking distance of my house. It pays to shop and then check with the local guys you might be surprised... thanks again