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Replacement turbo suggestions?

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Ok,

Looking at buying a AFE blade runner, anyone use one of these? How they holding up? any other suggestions around $1200?

Thanks

Kyle
 
What are you looking for the turbo to do? Power increase, stock replacement, towing, DDing, racing, etc??

The BD's can be good, but there have been a lot of horrible customer service issues lately. They are basically a box S300, an expensive one at that.
 
Truck is used as a farm truck, toy and 5th wheel hauler and daily driver. Transmission just got rebuilt with a triple lock converter and lots of extras with a huge oil pan.
I can get a bolt on AFE blade runner for $1250 shipped and a two year warranty.
BD is more money and needs down pipe and other adapters. I would like a super b but too much cash for one. $1250 is pushing the budget
Kyle
 
The bladerunner is a glorified stock turbo, I recall the compressor MAP being less than impressive even for the cheap price.

AFE has since removed the compressor map off the website, but I found old posts talking about it and it wasn't able to support stock boost or flow.

For that price you would be better off getting a used HE351CW, a rebuild kit, a 70x60mm turbine wheel from BAE and having the turbine housing machined for the wheel. It actually would probably be less money and more performance.
 
I seem to recall getting a good deal, around that price for a Super B, that included the downpipe. Regardless, if you choose a turbo mostly on price, you may be disappointed. Many on this forum have experience with aftermarket turbos and in general the good ones aren't the cheap ones.
 
I have the Super B on my signature truck, and would never go back to the stocker. I am also using their manifold. The only downside of the Super is that at least my vintage (late 2009), requires an adapter to mate to the original elbow; the later Killer B is a direct replacement with the correct elbow on the compressor housing and the exhaust elbow is a direct fit. Perhaps the newer Super has that feature also. All I had to do was shorten the stock downpipe about 2" so the system would sit properly in the hangers. It has a drive pressure much lower than the stocker and is only making boost when needed. At 65 on level ground, it runs 2-3 PSI, that's half what the 341 used to run. There is also a significant FE benefit, (about 10% IMO) by not using exhaust energy to make boost when not necessary.
 
Turbo here, started with install and ran into some problems, bolts to turbo seized had to remove exhaust manifold which turned out to be a good thing, cylinder 6 exhaust gasket blown.
Couple of questions
what is the best way to keep the exhaust bolts from backing out on a OEM exhaust manifold?
anything I should do before putting the exhaust manifold back on other than new gaskets, cleaning gasket surfaces and proper torque?
Whats a oil leaking OEM turbo worth that is not fried?
thanks
Kyle
 
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