Replacing Ball Joints-- Whodunit?

[bighammer]

I'm thinking of replacing my upper and lower ball joints and I'm wondering who has done it and how it went. I know the hub removal can be a task of its own. I'm thinking I will get the hub puller to make that part easy. (I did my right side U joint, but I'm skeptical of the amount and capability of the antiseize I used-- Dealer did left because I couldn't get hub off, so I have no idea if they even used any. )

What kind of press did you use for removal?
Is there a specific model press for doing just ours, or universal kit?
Any problems? (or wish you had just taken it in to have it done?)
I'm thinking greaseables from Rock Auto. Are there others I should consider?
Any other tips or ideas?

Thanks,
Pete

 

[CIverson]

I've done mine twice now. I bought a standard press, and did not have all the adapters needed to get the balljoints out, I improvised to finish the job, but you might want to look at a press with a bigger selection of adapters and such.



A trick for the hubs that I learned on this site is to back out the hub bolts about half way, then put a socket and extension on the bolt and turn the wheel with the engine running to use the power steering to press out the hub. You do one side, then the other and it will come out fairly easily.



The only issue I ran into was with using adjustable upper balljoints, if your using them let me know and I will give you the issues I ran into.

 

[bighammer]

My ball joints were pretty tight until I tried the socket and extension method of hub removal. The right hub was very tight and I broke 2 extensions and a socket before it came off. My alignment was off and I had play on the right side after. :{

I want to go greaseable non-NAPA so I think I will have to have adjustable uppers. I think if I set them to only change castor, then that can be set during the alignment. I never had pulling issues befroe, so I'm guessing camber is OK as it is/was.

I'm sort of considering an upgrade on my springs and shocks as long as I'm under there and dirty.

 

[CIverson]

Read this



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...nsmission-discussions/179962-ball-joints.html



and this



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...scussions/160000-new-balljoints-moog-r-r.html

 

[HOBrian]

Shoot Ryan B. a PM about his pullers that he made, They are very strong. I had planned on using his but due to time (on my part) I was not lucky enough to borrow them.

 

[SKing]

I used a dead-blow hammer and they came right out. Also used it for tie rod. I broke a C press and got mad then wacked the ball joint 3 times with the hammer and it poped out. Thought to myself No way and worked the others and they came out. It has to be a dead-blow hammer. It works on the hubs also. Hit the sides all around it and it will come off. Be careful of dust sheild and ABS sensor, I didnt unplug sensor due to rust.

 

[dcherill]

I just got finished doing both u-joints, both hubs, and all 4 ball joints.



we were using the matco ball joint press, and it didn't have the adapters needed to get the bottoms in. the steering knuckle holes don't line up that well to get the spindle for the press through the holes, it was kind of awkward.



I came up with a great trick for the bottoms, where you don't need to use the press to put them in. the kit had the adapter for the bottom of the balljoint, but we couldn't come up with a combination for the top, and to get the press to fit on. we just used the floor jack under the adapter, and essentially jacked up the vehicle by the bottom balljoint. smack the steering knuckle with a baby sledge, and the knuckle just slides down on the balljoint.

 

[SSwords]

harbor freight sells a tool and adapter kit works well for a ocassional use not so much for everyday I got the otc after I broke the other one I think I gave 50 bucks for the harbor freight one

 

[bighammer]

Verbose Update

My local Advance Auto Parts loaned me a kit for ball joints. I jumped into it yesterday and it's turned into one of those "much longer more costly than expected" kind of projects... .

I started on the right side and things started smoothly. Hub came out with just a few taps of the new dead blow hammer. (that my dog half chewed up before I even used it once#@$%!) Using the press and finding the right combination of parts to get the old ones out and new ones in was a bit slow. I took my time, it's hot up here-- 90's and HUMID. :{

I get to putting the hub/bearing assy. back on and I can feel a clicking as I turn it. Bad bearing? Contamination? I run and buy a new one, tacking on another $200.

Then as I grab the axle and start to slide it in, I feel one side of the U joint is not as smooth as the other. I work it back and forth, and rap on it a coule times to try to free it up. Still not quite right. I pop the clips off the caps and start to hammer it out and see the telltale "red smoke. " Despite my regular greasing, one side is BONE DRY. Plugged pasageway maybe?

I knew I had an extra on the shelf from the left side I couldn't get apart. (dealer replaced that one under warranty) I had broken a zerk when I did my rear shaft joints, so I had robbed the one from this extra one. Forgetting that until just after breaking the one I'm pulling apart, I realize, I'm now short one grease zerk. Run to town again this morning to get a zerk and a U joint for the left side which I figure is probably on its last legs by now.

Everything on the right went back together on the right (finally) and I started on the left side this afternoon. Wouldn't you know, I hammered for a LONG time to get it off to find... . (drum roll) ... . no sign of any antisieze compound. Maybe the dealer ran out of it that day.

I get that axle out (of course the joint apears to be in great shape) and start to get the nuts off the ball studs. Top was fine, but the bottom was bit loose and turning the stud. Seems that some of the play was because it was not seated in the knuckle all the way. I get it off and the taper in the knuckle has a ridge preventing the new stud from seating fully. I called a couple parts stores and I get the "hard part, dealer only" reply. I called the dealer who's fresh out of them and wants $360 to order me one. Soonest is Fri or Mon, and I was planning on picking up my son from camp and heading to Ann Arbor for the weekend.

I spent some time filing slowly, and carefully. I got it close and used a Sharpie marker to mark the stud and bore to see where it needed more filing. It's getting pretty darn close, but I'm tired. Tommorow is another day and hopefully I can get it back together.