2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing battery cable connectors, but not the cable

[tomblue01]

I've got some new 'military style' connectors enroute because my original connectors no longer clamp the battery terminal posts tightly. I haven't found any posts about replacing the factory cable connectors, but other posts led me to a couple of websites that make custom cables for our trucks. Cables will be a later upgrade for me.

Do I saw through the lead on the existing connector in order not to shorten it, or shall I simply bust out the angle grinder to cut 'em clean off?

After 21 years, the copper has a nice patina to it. [I'll measure ohms when I take them off tomorrow.] I plan on a nice phosphoric acid bath for them. How much sheathing should I open up in order to examine the cables with a bit more certainty?

 

[SAndreasen]

Take the hacksaw cut off right behind the old terminal if there's a lot of green right at that point it's a good idea to get ready to replace the whole cable www.genosgarage.com has a pretty good deal on ready made cables

 

[tomblue01]

Anyone every use these products? I bought both pos. & negative mil. style connectors. I'm thinking my neg. connectors could've been one of these..

Quick Cable
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SAndreasen: Fresh cables in due time!

 

[Timd32]

I had the same thought on mine, 205k to just do the ends on top 1. It's easy, 2. It's cheap.

I purchased the large square ones from Geno's, plan was to cut off very carefully as you are thinking in my case I had to cut so much off due to corrosion, even re routing was not an option. But If you get away with it yes.

When I really dug into it the top battery side which I though was a problem was nothing compared to the cables on the actual starter. That side was completely wasted along with the starter connection, cable was split and destroyed down there.

Even with the stock really bad cables and 2009 Deka batteries never had a starting issue with all that old stuff.

Since then I have replaced all items as you are thinking in due time. It's a project worth the undertaking. But takes time to do it and have all the stuff.

In my case I bought all the common rebuild parts for the starter, but it was too far gone and just replaced it with a brand new unit, for me it was cheaper for brand new then a rebuilt.

I got my cable set from custombatterycables.com took a little bit to get them in but was a good investment for sure. Over paid a bit compared to building my own, but I needed to save on the hours had too many other issues that needed attention.

 

[tomblue01]

i really like that outcome! That's one sexy engine bay!

 

[BigPapa]

Very colorful....

 

[phantomusa]

Im lucky to have a crimper that makes cable replacement easy
On my boat batterys i also solder and crimp the ends on then cover with high quality srink wrap to prevent corrosion also if its a stud battery i cover it with dielectric grease

 

[mwilson]

Yes, Dielectric Grease and Never Seez....two things you cannot be without if you live in the salt belt.........

Use the grease on everything (except my morning toast).......

 

[mwilson]

After seeing a bit of green in the bumper trailer connector one day years back I started putting the grease in there as well. In every one of the trailer connectors as well. Doesn't take much and it will spread each time you connect....

 

[BigPapa]

Use the grease on everything (except my morning toast).......

The Food Grade White Lithium is pretty tasty....

 

[mwilson]

When I was young and really poor I always wished that they would have developed a flavoring agent for gasoline as I siphoned gas from one thing to another for just one more ride on the mini bike....

 

[fest3er]

When I was young and really poor I always wished that they would have developed a flavoring agent for gasoline as I siphoned gas from one thing to another for just one more ride on the mini bike....

*That* explains it....

 

[Lynx0849]

Im lucky to have a crimper that makes cable replacement easy
On my boat batterys i also solder and crimp the ends on then cover with high quality srink wrap to prevent corrosion also if its a stud battery i cover it with dielectric grease

I assume you crimp first, then solder? If the other order, it will loosen over time as the solder will flow from the crimp pressure.

 

[phantomusa]

I assume you crimp first, then solder? If the other order, it will loosen over time as the solder will flow from the crimp pressure.

Yet crimp first then flow solder into it i like to leave a little strans visible to see solder flow into strans stops corrosion

 

[Killer223]

i just put some engine oil on my terminals and they never corrode. they make a spray, but really all you are doing is keeping the air off them., and the oil soaks into parts the spray and grease don't get to.

Food for thought.

 

[phantomusa]

Be carefull of what you put on battery termials grease and oil will seap between the conection and kill electrical flow...ive seen this happen with post type connections with grease it gets hot and will melt and stop a positive connection between the post and terimal only use dielectric grease on post terminals

 

[tomblue01]

Lol, you all crack me up!

I have the mil. style bat. connectors in hand; plus I have 00 copper lugs with 3/8" eyelet [should have got tinned ones (oh well)], some solder slugs for those lugs, but I didn't have the little pigtail information off the neg. cable connectors & the driver side pos. connector. Therefore, I haven't cut my cables yet. [& I'm glad I didn't.]

So, this is what I've found out, & I'd like to confirm the data with you all:

D-side Pos. Connector: 00ga to starter. 6ga to pdc. 14ga to splice S-148 [rides along the same wire loom as the starter cable]. What I noticed was that DC labeled the P-side Pos. cable going to the D-bat. as single 'aught', not 00... My calipers [granted, the insulating sheath is included on all measurements] measured all four cables to be roughly 1/2" +/- 1.5/100". Negative cables also get labeled as '0' ga, even though their diameter measures on par with the others.

Does anyone know with certainty? If those cables are '0', will '00' lugs still work if they're soldered into them?

 

[tomblue01]

Forgot about the D-side Neg. Connector: 0ga to engine block. 8ga to G116 [gets lost under the lower cac boot (edit: bumper frame)]. 10ga to G115 [easily traced; right above the headlight].

P-side Pos. Connector: 0ga to D-bat.
P-side Neg. Connector: 0ga to engine block. 10ga to G118 (easily traced; between air filter & P-bat).
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Golly, they seem like 00. Did I read the wiring diagram incorrectly?

 

[Timd32]

** is the Diesel Wiring. See the screen shots from the 96 service book.

You should get a service manual from Geno's for sure. I got a CD from TechAuthority, it's the best to have in hand. It on my iPad, the diagrams are great. I also have the Chilton book which works for 85% and if I get that greasy I'm not worried.

Also I use the copper infused antisieze on everything but the primary connectors, those are bare and dry and use the red spray stuff that needs to be applied once in a while, go with what works for you but keep them clean and matched batteries old or new and should not have any problems.

Here is what I have from custombatterycables.com again I traded time for dollars had lots of other major rework to do. I'm a Medium Voltage Electrical Technician so we have all the stuff to crimp these and the sort as well just short on time due to family, church, habitat work, real work, then my toys.

http://custombatterycables.com/application/dodge_2500_5p9L.htm

 

[tomblue01]

I got my info from 8W-20-4, "Charging System With Diesel Engine".

I guess I'm miffed at buying the wrong stuff. Well, it seems that I got 1 out of 4 correct... *le sigh*