2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing front rotors on a 4x4

[Forrest]

Haven't yanked a wheel to see what's involved yet.



Have you done it? What is involved? How do you do it?





Thanks,



Forrest

 

[LHartman]

Not too bad to do. Remove wheel, brake assembly. Remove the axle nut (This was the hardest part for me. Took a 6' cheater bar and almost didn't get it off). There are 4 bolts holding the bearing/rotor assembly on the back side. Remove the 4 bolts and it's off. Knock out the studs. Careful not to damage the threads if you reuse them.



Did I miss anything?



Loren

 

[Forrest]

Once the assy is off, you knock the studs out the back side of the hub?



Oh ... what size is the axle nut?

 

[JKunze]

Nut size is 1 3/16" if I remember correctly, I'll be able to tell you tonight or tomorrow, I did have to get a new socket because none of the sets I had included the correct size. Seeing LHartman's reply made me think he was from a "rust free" state because the removal of the assembly after getting the 4 bolts out was a real pain since I'm in Iowa and the rust grows almost as well as the crops . This may not be an issue for you since Reno isn't known for having too many rust problems. I'll re-post tonight when I find that socket and can tell you the right size for sure.

 

[masterstream]

The hub nut on my '97 is 1 11/16ths.

 

[Forrest]

Thanks ... yep, not too much rust here, but sounds worthy of an overnight soaking in all the right areas.

 

[TJMoor]

Just did mine last night ,, 1and 11/16 socket for the axle nut, 3/8 allen wrench to get the caliper off, then a 12 point 9/16 socket to get the four wheel bearing bolts out for the back side of the knuckle. . and a little hammer work,, if you dont have a good impact wrench you are gonna need a long cheeter to get it apart. .

Car quest rotors were 61 dallors and loaded premium calipers were 53 dallors. . have fun. . good luck

Terry

 

[Forrest]

Great Terry ... wonder if the 3500 axle nuts are the same as the 2500. JKunze buddy is gonna post.



Don't have an impact wrench, but got some pipe laying around just for that knuckle braking force.



Sounds like a brutal day coming up.

 

[JKunze]

masterstream and TJMoor are correct about the nut size it is 1 11/16" (that's what happens when it's been a while and you try to rely on memory ) Mine is a 2500 so the 3500 and 2500 do use the same size. I'm going to be off the net for a few days but let me know how it goes. It's going to be much worse w/o an impact (the socket I've got is 3/4 drive and it took all of that for one of 'em). When mine (both fronts were replaced) were done I did the wheel bearing and rotors, what was really needed was replacement of the front U-joints but by the time I got it off I knew I wouldn't want to go through the process again. I got rotors along with the wheel bearing assembly for just $20 or so more than the wheel bearing and everything went fine. The job had some other hitches that were un-related to what you're asking so I won't get into those (unless you e-mail the request).

 

[TJMoor]

The left hand axle nut was no prob, but the Pass side was a real bugger, I had a 4 foot cheeter on a 36 inch snap on breaker bar standing on it . . ended up hammering on the nut a little to loosen it up and then hit it with the 3/4 ingersol and it still took some work to get it off. . but other wise it is not a real problem... my axle u joints were good but I did put ball joints on the pass side. .

 

[JSykes]

Rotors and shocks

I am in need of turning or replacing my rotors. Are these turnable? Some manufacturers don't recommend turning rotors on their vehicles.



I am planning on doing the rotors and new shocks at the same time. Any difficulty in doing the shocks?



Thanks,



Jay

 

[Cooker]

JSykes,

What year truck and how many miles? The newer truck rotors are very easy to take off and change when necessary. The older trucks, pre 2000, are a real PIA to take apart. If you have an older truck I would replace the rotors vs. turning them because you don't want to be taking it apart again anytime soon.



As far as the shocks, they are very easy and straightforward to R+R.

 

[JSykes]

PIA Model

My truck is a '99 and classifies as the PIA. It has 109,000 miles on it. Sorry, thought I had my signature on.



Any aftermarket brand better than the others?



Thanks,



Jay

 

[Hammer]

Its a easy job with the correct tools even on a older truck.

-Once the tire and wheels are off,remove brake calipers and hang them out of the way.

-Remove the outer axle nut.

-Remove the inner nuts holding the hub assembly in(9/16 12pt).

-Take a long scredriver and slip it into the u-joint assembly behind the bearing assembly to help make sure you don't allow the axle to slide to far out when removing the assembly.

-Use a axle puller mounted on 3 of the studs and run the center puller in with a air gun(or really big rachet).

-Carefully apply air to gun and allow the puller to begin to remove the assembly slowly for you. it will come out with little or no effort like this.

-Remember on the drivers side to make SURE the screwdriver is dropped into u-joint assembly to hold the axle in or if it gets to far out it will be replace the inner seal time and that will add to your work load.

-When re-assembling make sure you torque all nuts to factory specs.



One thing I did when I re-assembled mine was to wire brush off all areas clean and use plenty of anti-seize so it will come apart easier later. I was glad I did later when I had to replace the left axle seal at a later date when it became faulty.



Hope this helps..... Andy

 

[Cooker]

As far as rotors it depends on how much you want to spend. I think the Brembo rotors are a very good rotor and are a good value. They are around $60 each from www.tirerack.com



EBC makes a slotted/grooved rotor that is supposed to be pretty decent. I haven't read much from anyone who has logged quite a few miles on them. I'm not certain, but I think they are around $110 each.