Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Replacing head bolts with studs

[Arkansas Traveler]

Are directions for replacing the head bolts with studs using the one by one method posted anywhere? Thats probably going to be my next project and I'm looking for some info first. BTW, my hats off to you guys that change clutches while laying on the ground. I'm not one to whine but swappin' in that SBC was one tuff job layin' down... .

Glenn

 

[rkressg]

It is not hard to change the studs. Pull off the Valve Cover. To do this, you will need to take off the air intake elbow.



You will need to disassemble the Valve Train for this. All you need is 10mm socket. There is 1 bolt in the middle of each rocker that needs to be taken out. Once the bolt is removed, lift up the rocker arm, being careful not to drop any parts. It will be a little stuck on the pushrod (just an FYI). Disassemble all 6 sets at once. I put the parts in the valve cover, so I can remember which ones went where (don't mix up these parts).



Once this is done, you can start to replace the bolts with studs. Do them 1 at a time. Start in the center and work in a clock wise motion outwards. You will have longer and shorter studs. The longer studs go down the left (exhaust) side.



Once you pull out the bolt, use Q-Tips to get all the crap out of the holes.



Install the stud, and tighten them until they bottom out. Then Back Them OUT 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. You should not need to install any lube on the studs when you run them in. Some people do, some do not. Personally, I never do when installing the stud.



Once the stud is installed, use a Moly Lube and apply it liberally to the washer and nut. I also do the threads on the top of the stud. You will need to torque it down in steps. Typically, I start at 20ft/lbs, and work my way up to 80ft/lbs in 20lb increments. Then I go up to 90, 100, 110, 115, 120. Torque the studs slowly, and give them some time between torques, allowing the metal to relax.



Repeat this for each stud, working your way around the head. Once all studs have been installed, ensure that they are all torqued evenly, by re-torquing again.



Re-assemble the valve train (torque rocker bolts to 20ft/lbs), start the engine, and let it come up to temperature. Do not drive it yet. Once it has come up to temperature, shut it off, and let it cool off entirely. This will take about 3 hours to cool back off.



Re-torque the studs again (you will have to break down the valve train again). When you re-torque, loosen the nut on the stud 1/2 of a turn, and re-torque.



You should re-torque it 3 more times over the next month. Only torque the studs when the engine is cool. Back the studs off 1/2 of a turn, then re-torque. Do not use your torque wrench to loosen the studs. I keep increasing the final torque on the studs by 5 ft/lbs each time. The ARP studs are good to 180, at which point, they will pull the threads out of the block. I have mine up to 135 ft/lbs right now.



Properly torquing the studs is the secret to not leaking. Most people do not torque head bolts or studs correctly, resulting in poor quality or leaks. If you take you time, it will not leak.



BTW, the 5 speed is an easy change. You should do a 6-speed. This is me sitting on mine in my garage.

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[Arkansas Traveler]

Thank you for taking the time to post a detailed reply. I would have screwed it up going on my own. Nice photo of you "riding" the 6 there. The 6 is harder than the 5 ? You deserve a medal !!!!

Thanks again.

Glenn

 

[rkressg]

Just the sheer size of a 6 makes it much harder than a 5.
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The sad part about that transmission, that is I have broken the following clutches:
Stock
TST Clutch (a Brute Force Clutch)
South Bend FE
SBC 3850-12CB (incorrectly machined fly wheel by SBC, warrantied)
SBC 3600-12CB (bent levers on pressure plate, warrantied)
and I am currently on a SBC 3250-12CB

I have changed it every time in my driveway by myself.
The transmission was just rebuilt about 5 weeks ago due to failed 2/3 5/6 and a reverse synchros. There was so much brass in the oil, I could have taken it to a scrap yard and collected money.

One thing to look out for. I have rarely had an occasion where the block that the rockers sit on will not fit after installing the studs. The washer that is under the stud has just enough tolerance to allow it to slide to the left and keep the block from sitting down properly. Just loosen the nut on the stud a little, and push the washer to the left, hold and begin to re-torque.

-Rich

 

[Arkansas Traveler]

Hi Rich, Wow, thats the first time I have seen a 6 sp from the side. You ain't a kiddin when you say its bigger. More iron there for sure. Looks like you work outside with just a propane heater. That sure doesn't add to the joy of clutch swapping. At least you have a nice jack. Pardon my asking, but what are you doing that tears up that many clutches?

Glenn

 

[rkressg]

That is a good question on the clutches. I think I just have really bad luck.
The stock just would not hold the power.
The TST clutch again would not hold. I wish I had an image of it when it failed. I never found all the parts (missing some springs from the hub of the disk).
The FE would not hold the power. It would start slipping in 4th gear
the 3850 was not machined properly. Apparently, there was a batch of bad clutches that went out, and as luck has it, I got one.
On the 3600, the levers bent on the pressure plate. I do not really know how this happened (I do not drive hard), but I do 45 miles of stop and go traffic every day to get to/from work. I am lucky if I exceed 35mph at any time.

That Jack weighs about 350lbs. It is actually for larger transmissions than the 5600, but works great for this unit. I got that jack new from a tool shop for about $400, and it has been worth every cent. I have a little jack for car transmissions that I used 1 time for a 6 speed, and immediately bought that jack.
The jack is rated at 3000lbs, and it will lift that transmission up to about 42".