Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Replacing oil cooler?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) oil in coolant

Status
Not open for further replies.
anyone got suggestions on replacing the oil cooler. Get from cummins or someplace else? How hard is it to do? I have had my last 2 oil samples come back with 560 copper readings and the machine shop says its from the oil cooler tube leeching. Any ideas or sugg. thanks!
 
The oil cooler is internally mounted in the lower right front side of the engine block. Why do they say it's the oil cooler line leaching. It could be the bearings, after you wear through the Babit layer on the bearing it turns to copper. So you could have a bad bearing.
 
There is an article covering this very item's replacement in issue #50 (Nov. ,Dec. ,Jan. , 2005/2006) of the Turbo Diesel Register magazine on pg. 14.
 
there are lots of posts suggesting that unless there are several other increases in the oil sample, it is indeed the oil cooler. The only abnormal reading in my sample is the copper. I would like to start with something I can replace fairly easy, than move to the bearings if need be. I will look at the tdr mag and read the article on this. Thanks for the help!
 
Really simple to change.

Just work and time.



Remove oil filter. Remove wire harness from studded bolt.

Remove all 10mm bolts and the whole assembly basically will "fall out" into your hands.

I suggest glove to handle the assemblies as the gaskets will cut right into hands (trust me I know).



The 10mm bolts torque to 18ft lbs (24nm).

Torque in a pattern to evenly distribute final torque.



Make sure not to compromise gasket surfaces when reassembling.





Also if you have to remove the coolant line coming out of the coolant inlet.

You will need some constant tension hose clamp pliers.

If you need to remove the threaded elbow that the coolant line connects to use a large adjustable wrench and unscrew it.

Use teflon tape on threads when re-installing.



The turbo oil fittings get 25nm, And the turbo oil line nuts get the same or a little better if I am doing it.



Oh yeah, remember the block is full of coolant.
 
I guess that approach will work. Personally, I like to diagnose and identify the problem and then fix it since fixing anything else wont work.
 
I would wait for a few more samples before doing anything unless you are getting high potassium also indicating a coolant leak. I have had several diesel trucks come back with sky high copper readings before from copper leaching will finally form a barrier coating on its own and the copper levels will fall. Cut open your oil filter and examine the media under a magnifying glass and a bright light if it is a bearing coming apart there will be brass particles that can be seen.

Have had copper readings as high as 980 from this same thing that corrected on there own has always been on trucks running synthetic oil either amsoil or delvac 1 is evidently a reaction between the esters and the copper.
 
I can wait to do the repair, although the dealership has agreed to replace it under the cummins engine warranty. Don't know what they will say when they see the upgrades... ... but my guess is they won't want to fix it. of course i had to play 20 questions with the service guy and he wanted to know why i had 19,000 on the same oil and why i was sampling it in the first place. He tried telling me that the new cummins suggest oil changes every 3-3700 miles. I think that's bs. my manual says 7500 and i always changed it every 4000 before the switch to synthetic. oh well, guess i'll see what they have to say
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top