Here I am

Replacing starter {already}

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Just bought this darn thing,replaced both batteries because it wouldn't start,tightened cables up... still doesn't start sometimes. So i tapped the starter and it cranks over finally. So i ordered a new one, can anybody give me directions on putting a new one in, and taking the old one out??never have done this before,hopefully it's easier than messing with the cam plate:p
 
The starter is real easy to remove and replace... .

Disconnect the batteries, disconnect the two electrical cables at the starter and remove the three bolts holding the starter in place. You need a 10 mm 12 point box end wrench or socket for the bolts.

The starter is fairly light and easy to handle.

I have removed mine a couple of times just to allow me access to the fuel hoses and lift pump.



Incidentally, you may not need to replace the starter, just the electrical contacts for the solenoid.

I think you can get replacement contacts at a good auto-electric supply house a lot cheaper than a new starter.

There are other threads on this subject with more information about where to get them.
 
PERMANENT STARTER REPAIR!!!!

Fellow TDR Members,



When my starter "died" I disassembled it and compared parts to a Cummins starter, usually good for a millionmiles of the lifetime of the engine. It appears Dodge has intentionally CUT DOWN the electrical connectors on the solenoid so that they are burnt thru very soon from the hammering the solenoid gives to the electrodes to complete the circuit to start the engine.



I have searced and found a wholesale source for the GENUINE Cummins parts to upgrade the starters back to Cummins specs, and no starter has failed since that I have modified. I buy the parts in wholesale quantities to assure a reasonable cost to make the starter as strong as it was designed to be.



Also included in the kit are carbon brushes in case they were damaged when the electrodes failed and heated the carbon with the arcing. I sent Mark Chappel at TST a "kit and directions for the install. I also have them here for anyone who would like to fix it right once permanently, or I can upgrade your starter if you send it to me. Turnaround is 24hrs, normally, and the cost of the kit is $39. 95 retail. I will install the kit in your starter for $100. 00 labor and materials.

The Kits come with detailed, concise, and easy to understand instructions with drawings and diagrams to walk you through the upgrade. The starter, otherwise is bulletproof, as you would expect from Cummins, and none has failed that has been converted to my knowledge. There is a 5 year, 500,000 mile free replacement warranty for the kit from me.

Thanks and happy trucking!

Tommy Hill



C & H Diesel & Hydraulics

610 Hwy 14

Elmore, AL 36025

(334)514-1204



***********Dealer inquiries invited****:) :) :)
 
Ijust had Delta Battery on piner road in Santa Rosa install new contacts in my starter & check it for any other possible problems.

$ 75. 00
 
Hey Sjohnson:

Are you from sonoma county? we have a chapter of TDR/Diesel-central.com running out of Petaluma,you should hang out with us diesel boys sometimes... my number is 415-713-2908:)
 
sjohnson & cumminzpower

(sjohnson)and hang out with us at LEAST until you install or help me install my new starter!! :)!! It cost a lOT more than the 75. 00, thats for sure! just kiddin... couldn't resist:)!



Cumminzpower, I would highly recommend the purchase of a shop manual and $30. 00 worth of tools at Sams Wholesale, Wal Mart, or Sears. Genos Garage has the shop manuals available, also, and the starter install is at most, a 30 minute swap out.

Enjoy the self sufficiency... after the first grease smudge, its all downhill...

:) :) :)
 
are the shop manuals you are talking about the same as the haynes manual that i bought at the local auto parts house? thanks. scott.
 
Haynes manuals are junk, spend the money and buy the Dodge service manual, it will pay for itself with the first minor repair you perform.
 
SHop Manuals

Yep, all the shop manuals are pretty much the same, no matter who or where they come from.

In some instances one or the other manual may be a bit better, ie more pics (or better sequences of pics), depending on what the repair/replacement/upgrade/preventative maintainance job being done.



If you were to buy and retain ALL of the manuals/microfiche/pictures and diagrams, etc from ALL of the component suppliers would require a separate library to be built!! and it would be your job 24/7 to research all of the reading material & to condense it into a useable, manageable tome is darn near impossible! (in my experience;-)!) which is also why the TDR is needed STILL and will always be... Thanks, Robert!! and everyone!
 
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