2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing the ball joints on my 2WD 2500?

[JSimoneaux]

I've been searching but I can't find any info around here about replacing the ball joints on the 2WD trucks, only 4x4 solid axle info. Does anyone have a writeup on what this is going to take or at the very least a list of anything special I might need. I have a ball joint tool and 4 new Moog joints plus a couple large hammers... am I missing anything?

 

[JNailor]

I did mine without much trouble at all. The lowers went first. They were welded in by the factory with two spot welds which I had to grind off. Then it was simple to press them out and install the new ones. Two years later the uppers went. They were much easier to do. By "ball joint tool" I hope you mean the C-press with adapters. All of my taper studs popped free very easily with just a whack from a hammer. When I did the lowers, I put the truck on stands and supported the lower A-arms with my jack. Remove brake caliper and then spindle. Press the joints and replace spindle. When I did the uppers I just removed the wheel and could do it with everything else in place. No wheel alignment is required. Thank God you've got a two wheel drive.



P. S. If you need the C-press set, I got mine from Harbor Freight. You can also rent one from a tool rental like Grand Rental Station.

 

[JSimoneaux]

Thanks for the info bro, I'm happy with my little 2WD more and more each day. I can't believe DC welded the lower ball joints to the arms, I guess they figured they would never wear out?



I'm going to try and tackle this tomorrow if the weather looks good, I hope to have it done before the sun goes down.

 

[JNailor]

It took me half a Saturday to do the lowers, a lot of time grinding, and two hours for the uppers. Doing all at once, the uppers will be a snap.



The factory says if you have welded lowers to replace the whole A-arm. I can't do that because then it'll need an alignment. I really dislike alignment shops!!

 

[JSimoneaux]

It took me half a Saturday to do the lowers, a lot of time grinding, and two hours for the uppers. Doing all at once, the uppers will be a snap.



The factory says if you have welded lowers to replace the whole A-arm. I can't do that because then it'll need an alignment. I really dislike alignment shops!!

Is there any reason why griding that spot welding would weaken the A-arm? There's no way I'm changing the A arms.

 

[JNailor]

No, not at all. It was just two spots on opposite sides of each joint. I cut them with a dremel and thin cutoff wheel. It was slow going, but it worked. They've been in for about five years now with no problems. The way I read it, not all Rams were welded anyway.

 

[ironbutt]

JSimoneaux

Fill out your truck info, as all 2wd are not created equal. some are welded in some are pressed in and some are rivited in. depends on what year.

 

[JSimoneaux]

JSimoneaux

Fill out your truck info, as all 2wd are not created equal. some are welded in some are pressed in and some are rivited in. depends on what year.

Done, it's a 98 12v 5 speed Sport Quad cab 2500. Is that enough info to know whether they're welded in or not. Doesn't really matter to me, I'm not scared of the grinder but I'm just wondering.

 

[FourBarR]

Top ball joints replaced at320,000kms(198838. 4 miles)bottom ball joints original now have 439653 kms(273187. 18 miles)Have to love these 2 wd trucks. Also have the original vp-44 and 53 block.

 

[JSimoneaux]

Top ball joints replaced at320,000kms(198838. 4 miles)bottom ball joints original now have 439653 kms(273187. 18 miles)Have to love these 2 wd trucks. Also have the original vp-44 and 53 block.

I'm not sure what happened to mine, It's only got 98K miles but it is a 1998 truck that lived it's life on a small horse ranch so age and weather may have done them in. All of the rubber on all 4 is gone and they're really starting to make lots of noise when I turn. I knew this when I bought the truck in Oct, I figured it was an easy fix.

 

[FourBarR]

Forgot to remind you ,be sure to get joints that are greasable. The originals didnt have grease fittings I drilled them an installed fittings. Thats what made them last so long.

hope this helps.

 

[surfbeetle]

FWIW, Dodge once stated that if the ball joints were welded in, you were supposed to change the arm it was welded to. My left lower was pressed in, my right lower was spot welded, we didn't change the arm all was well.

 

[JSimoneaux]

I started working on it this afternoon but didn't get far so I put it back together and I'm heading over to a buddy's shop in the morning because he has a lift and large air tools. I also noticed that my control arm bushings are fine but my front brake pads are close to gone so I took the bushings back and picked up some Wagner pad, I'll throw those on while I have everything in pieces.



I'm shocked at how heavy all that stuff is compared to everything I've worked on before like my Jeep or small SUVs. It feels good to know there's that much steel under the front end.

 

[earpster]

I have a 2000 2wd, and my ball joints are riveted in (factory). You have to grind them off(the rivets) to replace them. The new ball joints come with bolts so they can be replaced

 

[JSimoneaux]

Well I was able to get mine done yesterday with some help from a buddy and some pretty large tools. Mine weren't welded or bolted in, just pressed in covered in 8 years of road grime. Once we got them loose it was wild to see how bad they really were, I'm glad I was able to get it done, it really tightened up my steering and eliminated all my front end noise. I had picked up a set of front brake pads for the front but was given the wrong parts so I didn't get them changed at that time, I'll do that tomorrow.

 

[BRadtke]

FourBarR, I have a 94 2wd 3500. It only has 80,000 miles on it but an alinement shop told me it needed lower ball joints. I would like to replace them myself. Could you let me know where you drilled the holes for the grease fittings. I would like them as accessible as possible. Also what size drill and zerk you used. Thanks Bill