2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Replacing the fuel tank sensor

[Kirwin]

Relative position is important

The factory service manual says how to orient the sending unit "cap" such that the float doesn't contact the tank wall! I just marked the cap with a tire crayon and was careful not to clean off the mark while cleaning the top of that cap and tank prior to sending unit removal. It can get stuck full up or full down though. Seen it posted on here. Some people have said it takes a a good bump to pop it loose. Ken Irwin



Bseg i posted on your other thread about the wire clip not releasing.

 

[Bseg]

Ken, that's a good point that I didn't even think about. My float was probably caught on the wall and I freed it up when I moved it.

 

[Junior]

Bseg what is the best way to remove the plastic ring on top of the tank holding the sending unit in the tank. Did you clean t5he old on? and if so what did you use?

 

[Bseg]

Junior, I used the method someone else mentioned, put a small piece of wood against one of the edges on the ring and tap it with a hammer. It will unscrew fairly easily like that. Mine was only on about hand tight. I used the same method to tighten it up. Just don't over do it cause it could break.



I cleaned the old sending unit off with carb cleaner and wiped it with a rag cause there was some residue on it. I followed the instructions that were in the TSB about how to repair it, cost me 17 cents for the push on nut/clip and I bent the contacts down so they rub well on the board. I checked it with the ohm meter and it works as good as the new unit does so I now I have a spare. I did notice that the surface of the float was slightly eaten in a couple of spots so I am going to use some special epoxee, Marine Tex that withstands being submersed in fuel and I will coat over those areas.



If you can't find the info from the TSB let me know I'll send you the link.



Good luck, hope it goes smooth for you. Don't forget what Kirwin said about the sending unit getting caught on the wall and also make sure you get the gasket seated over the lip good. I found out the hard way and had to do the job 3 times :{

 

[Junior]

Well guys started the job. The reason the old float no longer worked was that there were pieces missing from the foam and it wedged itself against the whole sending unit. Anyway, my small issue turned big while removing the tank it fell off the jackstand in the rear and had not disconnected the return fuel line yet and it snapped it right off.

So now i just ordered the whole sending unit and made my wallet a little lighter. :{



So guys the moral of story it just sucks because i will be without a truck until monday. orderd the part 2 day from mopar 4less.



Besides that slight set back the repair was going fine. :--)

 

[Bseg]

Junior, Sorry to hear that you ran into trouble. There are a couple of posts that talk about making your own connections at the module using copper pipe and some assorted pipe fittings.



If you can still cancel your module order you might want to check those out.



I've read them several times but can't find them at the moment, if I do I'll send a link to them.



As far as lowering the tank goes, if you have some of those nylon adjustable straps (motorcycle tie downs) they work great. I used those the first time but found for the second and third time it was easier to unbolt the bed and lift it with the floor jack, this gives you much better access to the top of the tank.



Hope it all works out okay.