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Replacing the rear cam plug?

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I have the drive train out of my Scout, Replacing the Clutch and noticed that there was a little seapage coming out of the rear cam plug, on the back of the engine, behind the trans adapter.

Can this plug be pulled and a new one installed with out tearing the engine down?

I hate to leave it, knowing it's only going to get worse over time, but on the othe hand I don't want to pull the engine and do a tear down for one losey expansion plug.



Steve
 
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You should be able to just remove the transmission adapter to gain access, then remove & replace the cam plug. The 1st. Gen guys usually do it as a matter of course, when ever the clutch is reworked, along with the rear crank seal.
 
Ok, but how do you get it out with out damageing the camshaft? My thought was to tack weld a piece of metal to the plug and pull it out. Sound like a good idea?



Steve
 
Just drill the dead center of the plug and run a sheet metal screw in the center, the plug will fall out. Pull the old o-ring, clean the groove up with sandpaper or scotchbrite, put your new o-ring in, spread red loctite around the outside of the plug, put the plug in the hole, place the ball end of a ball peen hammer against the center of the plug, then with a second hammer, smack the plug till it puts a good dimple in the center and the plug feels tight, make sure it doesn't end up against the cam.





To be safe, spread a light coating of RTV across the outside diameter of the plug, let it dry, then put it back together, all done!



-Will
 
Will24 said:
Pull the old o-ring, clean the groove up with sandpaper or scotchbrite, put your new o-ring in,

-Will



Will,

I find no "O" ring in the parts list for my 4B. I checked all my other Cummins parts books and none on them list any "O" ring that goes behind the plug. You are talking about a "B" series Cummins?

I guess I'll go ahead and "pull the plug" and see what's there. Worst case is I wait a few days for another part.



Thanks

Steve
 
I just finished doing this yesterday. My 12V didnt require an oring. My block is a 94. Starting in 97 they began using an oring behind the plug. I installed the plug like described above with the camshaft installed. Pretty easy and pretty cheap to buy and install the plug. The hard part is dropping the transmission, clutch, bellhousing, ect. I got it all back together and now the oil pan to the rear crank seal housing is leaking. DOH!!!!



Chad
 
That explains why I didn't find the O ring in the parts book, mine only go to 95. Funny but even this 4B I'm working on, built in 1988 has a radius cut for an O ring. Oh well, It's sealed up with loctite and a silicone around the outside, that will have to do.



I just finished my first check for run out with the new bellhousing, found a good . 030 off center. Now I get to use the 4 jaw chuck for the first time that I bought a year ago Time to make some offset pins.



Steve
 
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