Just wanted to quickly report on something I learned a little while ago. Not sure if this belongs in the right place, for all I know might be a problem the 6BT's too. Basically the #4 bearing's OEM design is a three piece, the actual bearing and two "thrust washers" pressed into the bearing:
#2 below is the bearing. This goes top side. As you can see here one of the "washers" became seperated (sitting in the oil pan) and I got a large amount of movement on the crank. Not that big a deal but long term it can cause the crank to wear into the block.
Pretty easy to replace. I have never rebuilt and engine or ever swapped a bearing before, for what its worth...
Drain oil, drop the pan, count number 4 cover (#3 in photo above), remove bolts (#4 in photo), then remove bearing surface (that covers crank 360 of course)... Then very carefully with fingers or some sort of pry surface (being careful not to scar crank or block surface), pry bearing out of place...
Cummins improved the design and sells the replacement as a 1 piece. Pretty neat of Cummins of course... I did not take a photo of the replacement bearing out of the engine... It looks like the washer as if it were pressed together, but is actually 1 piece...
Take new bearing, cover in oil, and slide in its place. It can only go in 1 way, "the correct way")... Then bolt back cover to proper spec as mentioned in factory manual, then oil pan...
Here is photo of the new 1 piece bearing in place, with arrows show the actual bearing:
Here is photo of the pan where the washer was resting for god knows how many miles (I got the engine this way). It caused some clutch engagement/disengagement issues because there was so much play...
#2 below is the bearing. This goes top side. As you can see here one of the "washers" became seperated (sitting in the oil pan) and I got a large amount of movement on the crank. Not that big a deal but long term it can cause the crank to wear into the block.
Pretty easy to replace. I have never rebuilt and engine or ever swapped a bearing before, for what its worth...
Drain oil, drop the pan, count number 4 cover (#3 in photo above), remove bolts (#4 in photo), then remove bearing surface (that covers crank 360 of course)... Then very carefully with fingers or some sort of pry surface (being careful not to scar crank or block surface), pry bearing out of place...
Cummins improved the design and sells the replacement as a 1 piece. Pretty neat of Cummins of course... I did not take a photo of the replacement bearing out of the engine... It looks like the washer as if it were pressed together, but is actually 1 piece...
Take new bearing, cover in oil, and slide in its place. It can only go in 1 way, "the correct way")... Then bolt back cover to proper spec as mentioned in factory manual, then oil pan...
Here is photo of the new 1 piece bearing in place, with arrows show the actual bearing:
Here is photo of the pan where the washer was resting for god knows how many miles (I got the engine this way). It caused some clutch engagement/disengagement issues because there was so much play...