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Requesting Tips and advice for replacing clutch

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Just ordered a rally kit from Peter at South bend and am looking for tips and advice, or, direction to an existing source for these in my preparation for a shade tree clutch replacement. I have replaced clutches but never on my Dodge. I have a stock '91 4WD Getrag @150K. No failures yet, just a seat of the pants indication that the clutch is starting to groan a we bit here and there. The truck has never seen any heavy lifting but I figure it's due. I have normal tools, factory manuals and an idea, after looking it over, about a carriage that would allow me to drop the transfer case and the transmission as a unit. My first questions are: How far back do I have to move the transmission for it to clear the bell housing? Anything I should replace as long as I'm in there? Any special tools?



Much Thanks.

Long Time Reader, First Time Poster,

CEE
 
Personally, I think I would remove the transfer case seperately from the transmission. If I remember correctly, there are only 6 studs that hold the t-case to the transmission and it would make things alot easier to handle if removed one at a time. Just remove the center section of the three-piece crossmember and you can slide the transmission back and have plenty of room to remove the clutch without having to pull the transmission from under the truck. Another good tip I can think of is get some some long bolts and screw them into the pressure plate holes on the flywheel... . this will help alot when trying to align everything back up into place. The only special tool I would have on hand is a transmission jack. An extra set of hands might be helpful as well... .
 
Make sure it's your clutch groaning now and then and not something else. My clutch is the original with 304K on it and it's seen alot of trailer towing. Then again you may have bought truck used from a clutch rider/slipper.



Earl
 
I'm the original owner so I know riding\slipping has been minimal.

The clutch slave cylinder, however, has two nylon wands extending towards the release fork--wear indicators I reckon.

The inboard wand is just barely touching the release arm.

The outboard wand has been broken but is still 1 3/8" long.

There is 1 7/8" clear from the base of the slave cylinder to the release arm.

And if this helps, there is about 3/8" to 1/2" between the release arm and what looks like the one remaining nub on the outboard wand.

Sorry for the numbers, I hope this makes sense.



Thanks for your response Earl,

CEE

Woops, sorry if this sounded a little off, I forgot to ask if what I'm looking at indicates a clutch getting near the end of its service. I thought I'd seen info on this some time ago, but I can't find it now in my manuals. I'll keep looking.

Hope I didn't offend.

CEE
 
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I'll have to look under my truck tomorrow. I'm not sure what the wands you're mentioning are. You sure they aren't the plastic straps that held the slave cylinder compressed? Kinda look like zip ties. When new, they used these to hold the slave cylinder in so you can install it and when you first push on the clutch, they break. As far as telling when you're clutch is going south, it'll start engaging higher on the pedal. Mines about due, it's engaging about half and fully engaged at 3/4's. Also as your clutch wears, the clutch master cylinder fluid level will rise. If you replaced the hyd clutch system, they're salty and only found through the dealer. But they come as a unit, prefiled, and prebled. You just bolt it on. If you read the section in your service manual under the hyd clutch system, there's where you'll find the info on the fluid level rising as the clutch wears.





Once ya get it apart, check your clutch fork and clutch fork ball stud pivot for wear. Also the check out the release bearing collar on the front of the trans for wear. Your manual will tell you what to grease when you reinstall. Also your input shaft splines can wear. You'll want to look closely at everything pretty much.



Earl
 
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