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resurrecting my CR

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Banks Exhaust vs PacBrake

06 High Idle

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Well, I got my junk back to Pa. & in the shop. Pulled the head off and found 1 bent valve, 1 valve seat off (on the bent valve), & 4 cracked pistons, the one with the bent valve also had a hole in it. Number 4 cylinder is also damaged. I have decided to rebuild it & give the ole Dodge junk one more try. I am sending the block to have the #4 cylinder sleeved, 6 forged pistons installed, and the block fire ringed. Also going to stud it and put a different cam in. The head is going to have the valves gone over and am also going to port & polish it along with a 3 piece manifold. It appears that the injectors are OK, but we're sending them to be checked out, although I'll probally buy aftermarket ones anyway. I'd like to do something with the CP-3, and am looking for suggestions. Also will be doing either 1 big ball bearing turbo or twins, depending on the cash situation when we get there! I realize that twins & a modded CP-3 would be the best, but that may need to happen down the road. I will be putting a FASS on. It is my intent to build the block & head as bullet proof as I can, so it will hold up to anything I may bolt on it down the road. I'm not looking for the quickest or fastest truck, but would like to have the strongest & most dependable highway tow'er possible. Any realistic suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Glad to hear you made it back Larry! It also sounds like your building it right! All I can say is that with the way you tow and the setup on the motor your going to end up with a small fast spooling set of twins is the only way to go! My 66 is doing all it can do to cool what I have now for fueling but when I tow heavy it surges, after driving some correctly set up twin trucks ill never go single agin! Also get the injectors checked out for peace of mind! Hope all goes well keep us updated!
 
How about some input on what turbos to use for a decent twins setup to support around 650HP. Setup needs to tow good & be driveable (and fun) when empty. I'll also consider prices if anyone should want to discuss what they have to offer. Thanks
 
check with diesel nut here, his BD twins are a sweet setup, simple, clean, bolt on, he is well over 600 HP and runs mid to high 12's with 1250 deg EGT's! Plus the spoolup and driveability are incredible for towing I would really concider these.
 
Need Modded CP-3

I'm also in search of a modded CP-3. Anyone got any input or suggestions what to look for and/or where to buy? Thanks
 
Got the block & head back from the machine shop today. Block is now fire ringed & has a sleeve in #4. The head had 6 more seats that were loose & ready to fall out. Many of the valve springs were very weak, maybe from the Pac-Brake? Valve guides also showed excessive wear & were replaced. All issues with the head have been resolved, now off to be ported & polished. I sure hope that proves to be well spent money. Looks like we're going with twins, 18cm HX 40 & a HT3B, bolted to an ATS 3 piece manifold. PMCR is on it's way to Columbus to have all the programs (std. , early twins, late twins, & economy) installed. Also having the cooldown & adjustable timing upgrades done. Unfortunately, cannot do the rail pressure option on an '03. Six Arias forged pistons & gapless rings are ready to go in the block, waiting on the Scheid cam. Going to try a McLeod dual disc clutch to put it to the ground.
 
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I went with the Stage 2 CP3 from Industrial Injection. So far I like it, but haven't had it on the track yet.



As for the turbos, BD is hard to beat for an off the shelf kit that flat runs. Spool up is very good, and your Cam will just make it better. To keep the egts down towing I think the best route is to go easy o nsticks and use your box (or boxes) to control them. A set of 50hp injectors or so would be perfect. I have 100hp injectors, but before the CP3 could only run about 3x2 on the TST before it lost rail pressure.
 
Sounds about the same path that I went down for my 05, I just got mine running last week and am just trying to do some tuning on it. I had Scheid do all the motor work, 14mm head-main studs, street cam, port & polish head, all new valve seats, valve springs, fire ring block, the list goes on. Anyway I went with a Industrial Injection stage 2 CP3, 80 hp injectors, and Scheid built me a turbo. As far as the turbo goes, it is an S-3 with a 64 comp, 80 exhaust housing but thats all I can get out of them. Right now I am not running any power adders other than the injectors and CP3 and this thing constantly smokes, not sure why. It builds boost good but the turbo surges pretty bad, even when the truck shifts under light load.

I would like to know how your twins perform, I still might be changing my turbo set up. When I was first looking I had talk to some people about twins, and I was surprized how many people turned me off at them. Some guys have had lots of trouble keeping gaskets in the hot pipe, and said the EGTs were still high. But I have no idea, I would still like to try something, I think that my temp are going to be to high when I really put the power to this thing.



Also who did your machine work?



Anyway good luck with your motor!
 
All my machine work is being done by a local shop here in central Pa, as is the rebuild,www.s-mdiesel.com. What happened to your motor that made you do all the work? I'm having a hard time spending this on my truck, I'd really have a tough time doing it with an '05. Do you have any dyno numbers for it yet?
 
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Burnt #5 piston, tired to do stupid stuff before I knew better. I stacked a Bully Dog (Crazy Larry) on top of my Edge juice w/att.

I have no numbers yet, but once I get some miles on it and do some tuning, I plan on dynoing. I guess I'm shooting for mid 600hp maybe?? I hope on just diesel, but that might mean changing my turbo set up!
 
97,062 on the clock when she came apart. Just found out today that contrary to the morons at Dodge that I did not have an injector failure. We sent them off to be tested & the results came back that they were all 6 completely within the specs. & mechanically sound. So much for trouble shooting without ever turning a bolt. It appears that the loose valve seat was the root of all my evil, although that stiil does not explain the 3 other pistons that were cracked. Hind sight being 20/20, I'd have never put the PMCR & Edge on without at least an Aurora 2000 to compliment it and controll temps better.
 
I kept my PMCR set on 1350* all the time, and pulling the Supreme in the mountians, it was steadily cutting back on 3/2 with the EZ on 2. And even bobtailing it was always way to easy to get to 1350. Bottom line, I had it there and couldn't stay out of it, and almost never down shifted while towing, no matter how long the grade was or if the TST was cutting back.
 
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Good luck with your motor Snoxracer. I'm sure it'll come together fine with who did your work. I'll keep you posted on how mine turns out. Should be together sometime the week of the 22nd. First we're heading to the dyno, then we'll be hooking up the Supreme and heading towards Bay City Texas, so I'll know real quick if it works or not.
 
Thats cool, I never had any valve seat problems, but I know that a lot of people have had seat drop, I think mainly on the 03-04 motors.



Good luck also with you motor, it should be sweet when done!



Thanks

Snoxracer
 
Has anyone removed the grid heater to see the effect on EGT? Seems to be silly to me to put a $400 intake horn on & then that all that air still gets hung up at the most restrictive part of the system. I'm sure this has been covered before, I'm just thinking out loud.
 
grid heater from 8.3

LEPage said:
Has anyone removed the grid heater to see the effect on EGT? Seems to be silly to me to put a $400 intake horn on & then that all that air still gets hung up at the most restrictive part of the system. I'm sure this has been covered before, I'm just thinking out loud.



I wonder how much more work would be involved in modding an aftermarket intake manifold (like the welded aluminum one that's out now i. e. on Project X) to accept a larger grid heater like from a 8. 3. Or it would probably be cheaper to build a less restrictive grid heater from scratch that bolts to the stock manifold.
 
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