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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) retun line leak

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) The truck is Painted

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Does anyone know where to get info on replacing the fuel return line from the inj. pump back. mine leaks and it looks like a pain.

thank you
 
Just did another one today after the truck came from another shop,Diesel Specialist. They had replaced the lift pump,f/filter and overflow valve then told the customer to take it to the dealer they couldn't find the problem.



You will get to know your truck intimately,you will be hugging it from the top and bottom before you are done. :D



Bob
 
When I replaced the supply/return lines on my 96' I removed the fuel filter and starter. While the starter was out I also did LarryB's contact upgrade. Removing the front driveline would've made the job a little easier. Also, use Marine grade diesel approved fuel line.
 
Originally posted by DDarmos

Does anyone know where to get info on replacing the fuel return line from the inj. pump back. mine leaks and it looks like a pain.

thank you



I did mine about a year ago and it's definitely a pain. The metal line from the inj. pump was cracked at the first mounting bracket and it came out in two pieces.



You can do it from the top but I removed the fuel filter, the intercooler pipe and the intake horn from the manifold.



Not a job I look forward to doing again. But, I s'spose that since I have done it once it would be a little easier next time.
 
If you have a truck with vacuum brake booster, you can remove the two nuts that fasten the master cylinder to the booster and lean the master cylinder toward the fender to get more room.
 
On my truck with vac. brakes and 4wheel ABS it's gonna be a PITA in a major way. I'm going to wait until I do the clutch around Christmas time and do them then, if they make it that long. I have noticed a definite difference in how quickly the truck starts first thing in the morning so I may not have a choice in the matter...



Mike
 
I just did mine last week. I removed the intake horn and fuel filter for access. I put the front end of the truck up on 12" blocks so I could lay sideways underneath to reach the bottom end of the line. You cant really see the connection on the end of the hose but you can look at the hose and then get your arm up to feel you way around. Lay a rag over yer head when your messing with the line to keep the fuel drips out of your eyes and ears (lesson learned). The top end can be reached if you get your hand in the right way.



Yeah it's a PITA but it took me less than a couple of hours with two beer breaks when I got frustrated :).



Good luck,

Mike
 
If you will take a good look at the routing of the return line all the way back to the fuel tank. You will see that it will be much easier to remove all of the metal lines over the bell housing and replace them with rubber hose. I found this out after I replaced the lines as well.



Do a search on this topic and you will find a good but written on this. I went and found the discussion for you. Go here, https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89404



Good Luck



Don
 
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Return hose

Like others said, a real PITA. Two years ago I changed mine on my 96 and ended up with broken ribs and a broken right foot. (long story) If I have to do it on my 98, I am going to try to find a friend that has 4ft long arms to help. :D
 
RBrunson said:
Like others said, a real PITA. Two years ago I changed mine on my 96 and ended up with broken ribs and a broken right foot. (long story) If I have to do it on my 98, I am going to try to find a friend that has 4ft long arms to help. :D



Oh! Oh! let me guess. You were leaning over the front fender trying to get the pump end of the hose on/off and the chair/milk crate/step... flew out from under your feet at which point you broke some ribs on the fender and or battery. Then, you were so pi**ed you kicked the chair or other and broke your foot. :D Sorry, I couldn't resist.



Mike
 
I had the return line done by the dealer a few years back (prior to joining the TDR) and as I recall the job was about $120 or $140. Guess I got a good deal. I'm sure RBunson would think so.
 
Mikel:



You can swing by my haunt in West Houston the first week of Nov. If I can get prime rib at the Outback first, I bet we could come up with a swap. I'll even show a couple of tricks to make it easy. Remember I'm full of prime rib, you'll have to follow instructions ! :)



My old ram likes that 215 pump! Now I see you got the bug again, that #10 wasn't enough for the ole 887/913 it needed the 3KGSK? :) Then it will want the 370's, then a bigger turbo... It's fun eh?



Hope the little ones are ok. .



Andy
 
Mikel:



You can swing by my haunt in West Houston the first week of Nov. If I can get prime rib at the Outback first, I bet we could come up with a swap. I'll even show a couple of tricks to make it easy. Remember I'm full of prime rib, you'll have to follow instructions ! :)



My old ram likes that 215 pump! Now I see you got the bug again, that #10 wasn't enough for the ole 887/913 it needed the 3KGSK? :) Then it will want the 370's, then a bigger turbo... It's fun eh?



Hope the little ones are ok. .



Andy
 
I did mine on my 95 all from underneath. Took off the starter, and did the contacts while it was down, and dropped the front driveshaft. Took about an hour or two. Once I got the old lines off (clamps are never pointing the right way) it went pretty smooth
 
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