Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Return line replaced, still long starting

[Got Smoke?]

Well I had my return line replaced yesterday at the dealer for a very reasonable price. Both metal and rubber lines were replaced because the metal was cracked!



I thought that this would cure my starting problem, or annoyance that my truck has taking like 5 to 8 seconds of turning over to start. I've heard that it could be idle being too low as well, and my idle does only go to 500 when 1st started then about 700 when warm.



Thoughts/Ideas?

 

[esommer2500]

I would check and make sure that your fuel shut-off lever is operating correctly and completely, and I know that you have already been through all the relay crap. If nothing else, try feeding it just a touch of throttle when you hit the key, and I mean just a touch, otherwise she might take off to 2K rpms or so right on startup. Not good. If you are running a regular dino oil and it's getting pretty cold, it might take a few seconds to light. When I switched to syn it seemed to shave some time off initial startup when cold and not plugged in. HTH.



Eric

 

[Got Smoke?]

Eric if I forgot to include this, but I made a post over night that was lost that included this info.



If I blip the throttle the truck fires right off. Its only if I just sit and hold the key does it take longer to start. Your right I've been through the relay crap with the solenoid and I've been through the fuseable link (blue wire) crap too. What do I need to look for at the solenoid itself? Turn the key over to start and then see if I can pull up any farther on the arm

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Normally I'd recommend checking fuel pressure (overflow valve and lift pump can be at fault if low). However, your issue seems more the governor, and possibly the idle speed setting.

Adjust the speed up to 800 and see if that fixes it.

 

[esommer2500]

Mr. Donnelly's suggestions are good ones. The GSK's can be touchy and affect the idle, as I'm sure you know. Any similar problems before installing them? Setting the idle is a pain because the stupid tach.



On the shut-off solenoid, just check to see that it is not binding and is moving the full length that it needs to. The actual length of movement I can't remember, and my books and notes are at home. I think it's like 2. 5", but I can't remember for sure.



I normally give mine a touch of throttle this time of year, now I am going to try it cold and see how long it takes without any nursing.



Eric

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

Normally I'd recommend checking fuel pressure (overflow valve and lift pump can be at fault if low). However, your issue seems more the governor, and possibly the idle speed setting.

Adjust the speed up to 800 and see if that fixes it.

I've thought of replacing the overflow valve before, they used to be $15 at a place someone told me to get them, last I heard they went to $25 but that's still cheap.



I still need to mess around with my truck as my GSK is jumpy. You cannot hold a steady increased idle between 1K & 2K RPM's.



Mark @ PDR said to loosen the retainers 1-click and then bump the idle and see what that did for the jumpy idle.



Maybe at the same time it will cure my starting ordeal. If not I'll throw and overflow valve on. Hell my trucks got 188K on it.

 

[BigPapa]

Mark, I always have to lay my foot on the pedal to start or it takes a couple of cranks to start. The only exception is when it's cold and I have to let the grid heater warm up, then she fires right up! I always thought that was normal.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by BigPapa

Mark, I always have to lay my foot on the pedal to start or it takes a couple of cranks to start. The only exception is when it's cold and I have to let the grid heater warm up, then she fires right up! I always thought that was normal.

Not for a 95's that I've seen. I've got a buddy here in Gallatin that has a 95 and his cranks right up as soon as he hits the key.

 

[Joe G.]

Have you tried adjusting your idle up to at least 750?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Joe G.

Have you tried adjusting your idle up to at least 750?

Nope haven't messed with the idle at all. Am going to try tomorrow

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I think it's the idle speed. I run mine at about 800 rpm. Starts in 1/3 of a second. At one time it was lower and I could'nt get it to start quick either.

 

[JohnE]

My 97 has always been a stubborn starter. Fuel pressure, return lines and overflow valve all good.



I did notice it started better when the governor springs where a click tighter. The idle speed was higher and the throttle response was jumpy.

I noticed on the last gov spring I installed that too loose made the truck a bit harder to start. Loose springs also made the throttle a bit jumpy.



I increased the idle speed and it started much easier.



Right now, I'm stuck with using my foot after lowering idle speed. Tight converter and high idle in winter is not a good combination.

 

[mainer]

The factory manual for my '96 12V says if the air temp is below 50 or 60 then you should depress the throttle pedal slightly when you start to turn over the engine. I don't always follow this method when its 60 degrees, but when it gets down to the 30's or lower, I find this eliminates the prolonged turnover. Seems pretty simple.