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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Return rubber fuel line on back of pump.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TDC... need help!

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Anyone have to replace this line while on a road trip.



Fuel line from injection pump to metal line returning to fuel tank is suseptable to failure after alot of miles and years. If you are gonna go on the road, check this line. It is hard to get to and can loose alot of fuel quickly.



Mine was replaced at some time previously, cuz the failed one was a piece of Napa crappa.



Suggestions for a good quality return fuel line would be appreciated.
 
Do a search, look up "fuel Lines" , select the one marked "FUEL HOSE ??"

Find some marine grade fuel line (almost any good commercial marine boat shop will have or have your local dealer order them from GATES Rubber Co. ), about 2 feet of 5/16s and 3/8s and some stainless steel ring clamps you can use a nut driver on. Will last a LONG time.

Don't use automotive grade rubber lines... . .
 
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http://www.tridentmarine.com/



best marine hose money can buy. Bought 20' of each (5/16 ID and 3/8 ID) from them a while back, replaced my return line but not suction yet... very thick rugged tubing with a tough inner liner. .



theyre in Canonsburg PA (south of pittsburgh), and I believe they ship out small orders like mine. . I picked mine up at their location. .



good luck



-j
 
There was a suggestion by Joe Donnally to replace the Banjo bolt with one that has a barbed fitting and use a hose routed on top of the engine down to the hard fuel line, and get away from " under the manifold" routing. my question is, where should I go to get the Banjo bolt?

Marv.
 
I'd like to know the same thing. I've got about 170,000 miles on mine now, and although I did buy the good marine grade hoses awhile back, I have been hesitant to install them until I can get that bolt.
 
fuel hose change

rrausch said:
I'd like to know the same thing. I've got about 170,000 miles on mine now, and although I did buy the good marine grade hoses awhile back, I have been hesitant to install them until I can get that bolt.

RRausch, I've had my replacement hoses for awhile also and decided (with 200K on the originals) I was pushin' my luck & since filter change time had come I figured it was time. The water/fuel separator definitely has to be off to get to the top end of the return line clamp because its tucked tightly behind it. No time for the banjo bolt change - wanted to get it done. I've heard too about droppin' the starter for better access. Been untouched for nearly 10 years and didn't want to possibly open up another can of worms, so I left it. I must say, I do agree with the horror stories I've heard about this job. Idealistically, we would need toothpick-like arms that are 4 feet long. :rolleyes: Not happening. Would not want to do this job ever again. Most definitely a knuckle bustin' arm scrapin' endeavor. To make it worse, one of the four clamps (lower return) was one of those crimp types! :{ WHY THIS? Then I thought, I'll just unbolt the bracket that holds these two lines together on the trans and pull them down to have easier access. Suprise!- the bracket has a second bolt holding it on top. Can't see it - tight spot - ain't fittin' no tools in there. For all of you guys that have done this - fun, huh?? And for all that still need to , give yourself a couple of hours time for this one. Also use the small wrench instead of a screwdriver to tighten your clamps. I wonder what a shop would charge to do this job? I'm glad I'm done! :D One more thing - while your in the area, put your fingers on the rubber boot covering the solenoid. Mine had holes and was dry rotted. Luckily I had a new one from LarryB's. Took it apart, cleaned it up,new boot on. Like new. Good Luck . Mike
 
Thanks MHallorin! Thanks for your post. It is about time I did mine. I'm going to call Golden State Trucks this week, and see if they have the banjo bolt, while I've got 'em on the line I'll ask them how much they would charge to do the job.
 
Return fuel line change

Mine was a bear also. It helps some to remove the driver side fender liner. More access and more visibility. New fender fasteners are at NAPA and not expensive.
 
rrausch said:
Thanks MHallorin! Thanks for your post. It is about time I did mine. I'm going to call Golden State Trucks this week, and see if they have the banjo bolt, while I've got 'em on the line I'll ask them how much they would charge to do the job.

Hi RRausch. Did you do yours yet? Did Golden State tell you what they would charge for this job? Just curious... Mike
 
Their number has been disconnected. I don't know if I had a wrong number for them, or whether they have gone out of business. I'll have to do some checking. They were a thriving business--I can't imagine they've gone belly up.
 
rrausch said:
Their number has been disconnected. I don't know if I had a wrong number for them, or whether they have gone out of business. I'll have to do some checking. They were a thriving business--I can't imagine they've gone belly up.

Oh well... Good luck.
 
I had to replace it on the 98 on a road trip. Wasn't a lot of fun to change out in some guys driveway. I had put a used piece of hose he had laying around on the truck just to get home, so I get to do it again real soon. The timing case to block gasket just spit out so I guess the time is now.



Mine was only seven years old with 94000 miles, the hose was completely cracked the whole 6" length. It's gonna get changed on a regular inteval from now on.



Wayne
 
HFreeman said:
Mine was a bear also. It helps some to remove the driver side fender liner. More access and more visibility. New fender fasteners are at NAPA and not expensive.

Glad to see someone else found this out. I did mine the first time the hard way. Then the return line failed again, I had used regular fuel hose the first time. I had already pulled the inter fender liner for some other job and noticed that the fuel lines were much easier to get to from there and also the filter. So this time I pulled the liner and filter and replaced the line with Gates Fuel Injection Line. That was the recomendation of the Tech services dept. at Gates. That line has a VITON inter liner or tube, and nothing short of fire will hurt VITON. The marine line may have a VITON outer tube also, which would add a lot of cost, but would be there from now on.

Good luck.
 
Is the line 3/8 or 5/16 ? I think mine is due again (the signs are on my bumper and tailgate). Want to get the hose before I get it in the shop
 
Supply is 3/8" ID, return is 5/16" ID. I recommend the marine hose I posted above. . Do it once, do it right.



-j
 
The inter fender is easy to remove. It is held in place with plastic push pins. They will usually break when you remove them, so I use a split pin with a center pin that you push in to expand the tip so it stays in tight. Auto parts stores should have several types of them to select from. I use some that have a small head on them so I can pull the expansion pin and remove the whole pins and then reuse them over and over again. It helps access to the fuel lines and filter if you lift the truck and set on a jack stand so that the wheel is at the bottom of it's travel, and helps even more if you pull the tire & wheel. Do it this way once and you will never go back to the old way.
 
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