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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Return to axle trusses

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I posted a question here on 9-25 about axle trusses. Thanks to ALL for your input, sorry I couldn't get back sooner, I took the wife and TRUCK to the Smokies for a much needed long weekend. We got a lot of looks from the "OTHER" trucks. Back to the subject thow,I have looked at some from Quadratec and others. quadratec.com has lots of "Dodge Truck Goodies". I don't realy abuse the truck, but it shure takes a beating on the road. I just don't want to look back and think "I wish I had used a truss". I don't carry much weight, the crossover box weighs about 500 to 700 lbs. and thats about it. Thanks again, Whiskers.
 
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I see many lifted Rams using axle trusses. Does anyone here think the trucks need a truss setup without a lift/winch/bumper etc? Unless you are off-road a lot, I can't believe a stock truck would need that extra support.

Just my $0. 02
 
Originally posted by Beast2B

I see many lifted Rams using axle trusses. Does anyone here think the trucks need a truss setup without a lift/winch/bumper etc?



Don't know Beast2B. I don't see why just lifting would require one over stock. I could see it for a HD bumper/winch/plow.



Maybe the lifted trucks just want more to see underneath.
 
It's not really the lift in the trucks, but the tires that go with the lift. I'm sure others want the heavy duty look of the truss, even though the truck may never see dirt...



The extra large tires provide additional leverage to transmite the impact of a hit. Never mind the unsprung weight and loading on the tube hanging off on each end.



If your running off road with or with out a lift, a truss can be cheap insurance. If a hit is hard enough, the knuckles or spindles will see the hit and the truss is supposed to save the tube, welds and joints that are between the truss mounting points.



I've never seen a knuckle where the ball joint is in brake off. . but I have seen the welds and tube break loose from the pumpkin.



I guess the point being , you can get home with a bent spindle, but your not getting home with a broken axle housing.



On one of my gasser with a lift and larger tires. .

I've bent and axle without a truss. But if I had better shock setup, it may not have happened either. After "bending" the tube straight again and replacing the seals, I put a truss on and a set of dual gas shocks and a better travel stop. From that point on I always leaked a tad bit of 90w from the front seals. . but it never amounted to much.

I should have known it was going to happen since I had felt the front end bottoming out and hitting the stops once it a while from hard off roading. . not a good sign, should have done something. . than it happened , bent the tube on a hard hit.



If you dont run off road hard, dont ever feel the suspension bottoming out,, your probably ok. If you stiffen the suspension to help control the bottoming out, get a truss too.

If you run larger tires, lift... and use it... you've increased the loading on the front tube, during use of the suspension. . and should put a truss on too.



just my $. 02 from breaking and fixing trucks over the last 20 years. .
 
I agree BK, especially when the oversize tires are mounted on offset wheels. The load placed on the front suspension parts increases dramatically. Another piece of good insurance you hope you never need!
 
All are good points to think about. Thanks for the input. When I do go off- road, sometimes it's pretty rough, chasing a D8R Cat, but sometimes "ya gota do what ya gota do". I'm more of a crawler than a runner so i don't think this would be a problem, not as much as 70 to 75 mph on the interstate full HOLES. Thanks again, user name- RCrawford handle- Whiskers.
 
truss good for crawling

The day after I put my truss on, I was crawling around on some rocks when my Diff landed down on a rock. If the truss wasn't there, I would have busted a seal maybe so I'm glad I have it on. I have also bottomed the suspension out on a dune and no problems at all on that hard hit.
 
When was the last time you saw a race truck with a BOLT-ON truss? I'm not a big fan of the GoRhino type that utilize a u-bolt clamp around the axle tube. The Con-Ferr style that mount thru the yokes is a bit better IMO. I personally wouldn't buy either one for anything more than a skidplate.



Brian
 
Brian,

I pretty much agree with you.



But the type that bolt through the stub on the axle tube for the ball joints, do tend to provide some extra support against flexing and tube seperation. Been there, done that...



Now if you took a Go Rhino and welded it, you have something else. . which can very easily be done and has been done.
 
I'm using the Con-Fer front and rear. After bending axle tubes twice on the Bronco and the subsequent damage to my Auburn, I figure its cheap insurance. Plus, I like the way it looks... ... ... .
 
I think if I get one, it'll be the Con-Ferr. GKR where do you put the lift head of a jack when you need to jack your frontend up, it looks like the only good place would be where the radious arm attaches to the axle housing? Oh ya, I think the big smiling face needs a few bugs in the teeth, just my 2 pennies worth. RCrawford :D
 
You can have a chassis shop make one cheap enough. Use 1. 25 in DOM tubing and weld it at both ends as far out on the tube as possible with some bracing at a few points. Also have it welded to the pumpkin. This will eliminate any cocerns about the tubes flexing.
 
Gary C, where can I get a sticker like that? How much? Is it a window sticker or will it work on my tailgate? And about how big is it? It's coool,:cool: Thanks RC.
 
Originally posted by jdecampo

You can have a chassis shop make one cheap enough. Use 1. 25 in DOM tubing and weld it at both ends as far out on the tube as possible with some bracing at a few points. Also have it welded to the pumpkin. This will eliminate any cocerns about the tubes flexing.



The downside to the tube under the diff version is the decrease in ground clearance. The slickest way to truss an axle is with box/rectangular tubing cut to match the housing - it really doesn't need to hang much below the pumpkin. If you've got the room run it on top of the housing. Just be careful that you get the preload/bend right so you don't completely screw your alignment.



Brian
 
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