2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Reverse light tie in.

[ekrupp]

Does anyone have a suggestion as to the best place to tap into the back up light circuit? I am adding lights in back and would like them to come on when reverse is engaged.

 

[onstottc]

I spliced a relay into mine close to the light. I used the relay to switch power from the main line of the trailer connector installed on the truck.



That way, I was able to install a 10. 00 flood from harbor fright.

 

[AggieJustin]

If you're adding aux. backup lights, I'd highly suggest running them off of a relay and bringing a new hot line from the battery, or tapping into the hot line for the trailer plug. If you just add new lights on the existing backup circuit, you'll get dimmer performance out of your new lights. When I originally put mine on, I tapped the backup circuit and they were nothing to write home about. But once I switched to a relay with a new hot line from the battery, they definitely light up the night out back.

 

[Oil Burner]

I tied mine into the trailer light harness. use a relay, i lost a fuse when I ran straight power from the factory wiring.



Thanks,

Jason

 

[1dslram]

I have added a pair of 100 watt back up lights, and wired them as onstottc suggested.

Bruce

 

[Stamey]

Did you just use one of those wire taps that cut into the wire? I am wary of that sort of thing just because it opens a place for corrosion to start, and the rear of the truck is one of the worst places for corrosion to start, not to mention sometimes it cuts the conductor and weaken the power transfer.



Thanks,

Chris

 

[dwmobz]

Behind the Tail Light

I spliced into the back up light wire behind the tail light assembly. I live in the rainy northwest and there was little or no evidence of moisture in that area. Removing the tail light assembly made the splice easy. Using a relay is a must.

 

[Stamey]

Perhaps doing it high up, in the tail light, or as close as possible, is the key. I have just seen, in the past, where someone wired their trailer plug into the tail light wiring and used the wire tapes, then a couple of years later the wiring failed, and was found to be green where it should have been copper.

I will also try to get some of the wire taps with the dielectric grease in them, which should also be helpful in keeping harmful elements away from the conductor.



Thanks,

Chris

 

[DVR]

you have a 12+ lead and a reverse light lead in the factory trailer light harness.

i have the white knight back up lights tied in there on my truck.

 

[ekrupp]

Thanks for the info guys. I had already assumed that I would need a relay but I was not sure. I will use one for sure now. I am also concerned about the wire corroding if I hook to the tail light. I was hoping that there was a location in the cab to hook to the reverse circuit. I use to install car stereos for a living and have seen the affects that the splices have on the wire over time. The trailer harness is probably the best location since it can be fairly easily replaced should corrosion appear.

 

[ekrupp]

So did you use a relay? I assume so.

 

[RDHamill]

on my 6speed I picked up a switched lead for the reverse lights from the wire direct from the transmission, this wire is located in the harness right on the firewall, just above the valve cover.

I used this switched 12v to control the relay(s) one for the trucks aux back up lights, and another for the trailer's back up lights.



good luck

 

[DVR]

coat your splice completly with liquid electrical tape. it is available at most boating stores. it will work. i was a stereo installer for many years and I understand your concerns about the wire taps. the taps work well as long as the proper size is used on the correct wire gauge. most of the problems I have seen are where a 18-20ga blue tap was used on a 16ga and larger wire size that actually called for a 16ga+ yellow connector.



the white knight reverse light set up is pretty slick and has a built in relay and good instructions. it fits and looks good on the ram trucks. much better than hanging a set of fog lights under the bumper.

i found a couple of sets on ebay for $30 new in the box.



i will try to post a pic soon.

 

[Stamey]

coat your splice completly with liquid electrical tape. it is available at most boating stores. it will work. i was a stereo installer for many years and I understand your concerns about the wire taps. the taps work well as long as the proper size is used on the correct wire gauge. most of the problems I have seen are where a 18-20ga blue tap was used on a 16ga and larger wire size that actually called for a 16ga+ yellow connector.

Liquid Electrical Tape, huh? I will look for some of that tomorrow.



Thanks,

Chris

 

[NPloysa]

Can anyone explain, generally, how to run the relay. Hot from battery to new relay, then what? Electrical confuses me.

 

[Stamey]

Can anyone explain, generally, how to run the relay. Hot from battery to new relay, then what? Electrical confuses me.

The relay will require a hot lead and a ground. Then, separately, there are one or more switch leads (reverse light wire and separate switch if you like), and finally, the feed to the actual load, the lights. Is that clear enough?



Chris

 

[Jim Norton]

Hi all,I've had a pair of 55 watt lights on mine for years run direct from facrory wire with no problems. It certainly wouldn't hurt to have a relay,the bigger lights for sure. NPloysa- the generic 30 amp relays you see used are layed out all the same. There is usually a diagram on the side nowdays,with the numbers 85,86,30,87,87A on it. The side with the terminals are marked the same,85 and 86 are the coil, put battery on these and the relay "picks",these relays are not biased which means it doesn't care which is + or-,it will work either way. In the backup light scenerio you would connect one coil term. to the factory backup light wire,and the other to ground-this is your "switch". Connect a hot battery source to term. 30,and your load (lights ect. ) to term. 87. When the backup lights come on the relay picks and your new addition will come on allso. Something I found very handy was a switch mounted near the tailgate to turn these extra lights on without the truck in gear, great for hooking up trailers in the dark. Clear as mud? hope this helps some Jim

 

[RWhites]

The simple Bosch relay is nothing more than an electrically operated switch.

In the relay there is an electromagnet (coil) -/\/-,

this is powered from whatever your control circuit is. In this case it gets hooked up to your back up light circuit, just like adding another lamp. If I remember correctly it's the purple wire. It will also require a ground.



This is the part that drives people crazy with relays. In the relay there is a "common" terminal, don't confuse common as a ground it is not. The common terminal is where the new power source lead attaches. Now you get two choices

(1) normally open -l l-

(2) normally closed. -l/l-

The normally open contact closes when power is applied to the electromagenet (Coil) thus completing the circuit and the new backup lights or whatever.

The normally closed circuit works just the opposite, when power is applied to the coil the switch opens and whatever was working stops.



Rich

 

[dieselshu]

Back up light wiring diagram

Check out this link... Back up lights



Hope this helps

Dave

 

[RDHamill]

can anyone tell me what program is used to draw that circuit ?

I'd like to have something like that.

thanks

Rick