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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Ripped off on eBay, need some mechanical help please.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) new to TDR...

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) need a 12 valve head

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PAdkins it almost sounds like you just have a lack of horsepower. One friend had this happen and it ended up being a bad fuel shutdown solenoid. It pulls up on the pump fuel lever which is what turns on the fuel to the injection pump when you turn the key on, but if it doesn't pull up all the way, it restricts fuel and makes a truck a complete dog.



Here is a picture of it in this diagram, at the back of the injection pump http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/figures/12Ve_locations-l.gif



After you found it, start your truck then go under the hood and try pulling up on the little lever and see if it moves up more. There is also an adjustment for it http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/12v_fuel_solenoid.html
 
KLockliear said:
Sounds like the trans is in limp mode, and taking off in 2nd or 3rd gear.

I don't think there's a limp mode on a 47RH, it hydraulic. Checking the transmission pressures at the test ports is easy- some pipe to tubing fittings, 1/4" tubing into the cab and a pressure gauge through the passenger window and you can see what the transmission is up to. Mine wasn't shifting and the gauges told me it was the valve body. Ended up rebuilding it myself with help from Dave Goerend spending less than $1500 and it was a HUGE improvement. Much easier than guessing...



My transfer case dried up and would slip out of gear when I let off the pedal. About $700 for a rebuild.



Don't worry about that little 160 pump, very few others can pass mine unloaded and it pulls a 5th wheel just fine. You'll have to do a few easy mods to it though...



I'm sure you're mad, but odds are its not as bad as you think. Personally, my bet's on the transmission.
 
As for the rust, I can tell by the plow and salt spreader that there might or should be some rust..... I am suprised that is has not feel apart yet... . that stuff eats metal but you should know that before you bid just by the year of the truck and what it was used for.
 
Wow 12,000 for that???????? I sold my identical 1998 set-up last year for 6500. 00 with 79k on it. The seller represented it as runs and drives 100% so have you called him yet on the truck? How did you pay him for it? Im an Ebay buyer and seller and Im sure you can make this come out in your favor. Do you have Ebay's number? If not I do and can send it.
 
I also see that the seller is no longer a registered user so he must be a scammer. Maybe a few calls from us TDR members will scare this guy into making it right for our member???
 
CSnyder said:
Wow 12,000 for that???????? I sold my identical 1998 set-up last year for 6500. 00 with 79k on it. The seller represented it as runs and drives 100% so have you called him yet on the truck? How did you pay him for it? Im an Ebay buyer and seller and Im sure you can make this come out in your favor. Do you have Ebay's number? If not I do and can send it.





Ebay will do nothing for this buyer...



A. Seller is no longer a registered user.

B. Too much time has passed.

C. Ebay will ALWAYS protect their sellers, it's them who pay the bills.



I am also an avid ebay user (wife says it's an addiction) have bought and sold many many vehicles and other items, have gotten screwed hard a few times also. I've delt with ebay, individuals, and the legal system and my personal advise to the buyer is direct contact with the seller. It's always worked the best for me, although with him not being a registered user he really has no reason to protect his ebay acount. Perhaps you can guilt him into giving you a partion refund to help cover some of the repairs, but first you must figure out exactly what the problem (s) is...
 
It sounds like the trans needs an overhaul.



You might want to remove the front drive shaft and see if the t-case will shift. That removes any binding that might be caused by the axles being different gear ratios. If that does not help, remove the rod from the shift lever to the t-case. If you can shift the t-case by hand and it will stay put then the shift lever is out of adjustment.



The low power business may be slipped timing.



Check the hose to the AFC. If it's busted replace it. If that does not help the low power problem, remove the AFC, block the hole with something to keep oil in and dirt out. Duct tape will work. Take it for a test drive. See if that improves performance. If it does then there is something wrong with the AFC.



Too bad you live so far away. I would like to take a look at those problems.
 
the best way I can describe it, it’s as though I’m pulling a mountain behind me. Everything seems to be running, I’m just not getting anyware.

This is probably silly, but could the parking brake be stuck? If the truck is from a high humidity area and parking brake was engaged a long time the linings could be rusted to the drums. Just a remote possibility.



Gene
 
I would start with Vaughn's suggestion. He is correct with how it will act and it is real easy to check. There is probably more than one issue going on here. The transfer case lever may be as simple as being stuck at the pivot point. I plow snow with my '96 so it is obviously in salt as well and I have had to remove the lever, and lube everything up. Otherwise it would not engage properly and could cause the transfer case to pop out of 4wd.

You can keep a truck from rusting, mine has very little, so if the seller said it didn't have much rust it's not that hard to believe (trust but verify). The bottom of the doors are where you will first start to have problems. Especially on '94 and '95 models.

Don't get me wrong this truck definitely was not as advertised...
 
Many great suggestions and questions, I appreciate it. Starting with the seller. I am a veteran eBayer (nearly since they began as a local group) both as a seller and a buyer. I spoke with the seller at length prior to the transaction. I asked about the rust and as I mentioned earlier was told that it was no worse than the photo he advertised. I expected some surface rust, but not what I got. I spoke with some of his buyers and for the most part they were happy with him. They said that he was a bit sleazy was all. So in general I felt OK about the purchase. I did not like the fact that it was across the US and I could not realistically look at it first and that was my biggest concern. I also felt covered by the “buyer protection plan” that eBay includes, yet another mistake.

As far as my options are concerned that is where it gets bad. His name is David Hanrahan and he changes his username often, after researching him I’ve found that he and his friends/partners have used at least a dozen names. They use the various names to give each other decent feedback and then when it goes bad they tell eBay that the ID was stolen and they get a new one. Right now he is using “hanrahan-honda”. There is not much I can do other than sue him, I would win a judgment but that is not likely to help me out for a long time. This is a civil issue, basically a breach of contract and not a Law Enforcement issue. I will do my best to notify everyone I can about his activities and at least make it a bit more difficult for him. As someone stated eBay claims no responsibility on these issues. I have been dealing with the seller through the protection plan people who I refer to as the “insurance” people. They are the ones who got me the truck at all, I’m sure that if they had not been pestering him he would have never shipped it. They are also who has told me to get estimates of repair, but that the 4x4 and rust is not covered under the plan. They will also attempt to get the seller to purchase the vehicle back as they do not want to pay the repair costs. That’s why I have turned to you for help. I’d like as much information prior to limping this thing to the dealership. I want to make sure that they find all of the problems. And I’m not sure what will eventually become of the truck, will it go back, be fixed, scrapped, or sold as is? I just don’t know right now. The strange part is that I looked long and hard for this truck. They are very common back east, but I was unable to find a regular cab 4x4 3500 out here, and if I found something close the price was much higher than the $11000 I paid. Everything on the west coast seems to be a quad cab which I did not want.

I will be attempting to try out some of the suggestions and answer some of the questions that everyone has provided. I am also put up a web site with photos and such; it will eventually be where I send potential customers of David’s to read my story.



The web site
 
Wow,

The price alone told me that you got ripped off but after seeing the pictures i'm amazed you haven't shown up with the truck on the man's doorstep. I too have been totally ripped off on eBay. Even paid for an engine i never received. I'm glad you've been able to learn as much as you have about the seller. I've never had as much luck.



That truck is so nasty, i wouldn't even want to work under it. If you keep it, i recommend you sandblast the underside and patch it up with a welder. You definitely deserve some sort of financial reparation. Does the rust appear equivalent on both axles or does the front perhaps look like it has bee replaced? Just wondering if you have reason for raised suspicion of different gears front and rear. I had that in a Jeep for a while and the vehicle would buck.



Let us know what you are able to diagnose. So sorry about your predicament.
 
First i want to say how sorry I am that this is your very first introduction to the Diesel World. Trust me, when I say that when they are running right, there is nothing better then a diesel. You have been taken, and I would assume you are not the first or last that E-bay will hear from. The guy that sold the truck was a pro, he very carefully worded the description to meet the E-bay requirements, while at the same time avoiding the truth. For instance, when you thought he talked about the transfer case and front axle, he simply stated the 4X4 system was good, which according to E-bay police, isn't covered. very slick.

Let this be a warning for all that shop and buy on E-bay. While E-bay may be a good place to get items cheaper they thru retail establishments, it is also a great place to get scammed by cheating con artist.

The next thing about this purchase is the trucks past use..... it was a snow plow. There is nothing worse,(and nothing one should avoid more) then a snow plow truck. They only operate in the worst of conditions, when most people are safe at home. They see huge amounts of salt, both from the highway and from the back of the truck... . no-one should buy a snow plow truck and expect it to not be fully rusted out. It can not help but to be rusted, it lives in salt.

If you have ever plowed, you know the life the truck lived. Constantly going back and forth, moving from forward to reverse..... constantly... and never waiting for the truck to stop before shifting gears... which is a huge killer for an automatic. This same movement also kills the transfer case, which has probally seen way to much action. Check the oil in it and see what you have. This types of trucks are usually not what you would want to invest your hard earned money in. They see a life time of abuse and neglect, and are only sold once they are truly worn out.

I do feel sorry for you, while you may sort out the trasnmission problem and the transfer case problem, those two parts are very expensive to replace and install. I can't help thinking that this truck will be a constant reminder of why you should not have bought it, for once one item is fixed you will mostlikely have another turn up. If it was me, Id work on the obvious replacement of bad parts, spend some time getting the sander running, clean as much rust off and hit those areas with some undercoating, and sell the thing, hoping you get enought to break even. Good luck.
 
I just looked at the pictures and wow, doesn't look anything like the ebay ad. I'm sure glad my '96 plow truck doesn't look like that, even though it has plowed since '98. It is possible to control rust and have a mechanically sound truck even though it has plowed. My old truck a '79 F250 is still on the road and plowing every winter... I can't believe that truck doesn't have many more miles than what was advertised. Some people just don't take care of their equipment and your truck is a prime example. I wish you luck in getting some sort of reparation and thanks for letting us know who the guy is that sold it to you. If you lived closer I would be happy to give you a hand putting it back together if you end up keeping it.
 
Wow! I appreciate all of the comments, even the one that imply I’m a fool as I am feeling that way myself. :D

I was not expecting a creampuff; this truck will be used as second/work vehicle and will carry gravel, asphalt, etc. What I was expecting was a good running serviceable vehicle. I just attempted to run it around again to answer some of the questions. Being that this is my first diesel (other than tractors and equipment), I am still stuck between the three logical diagnoses. I was able to move the TC shifter some and got it into 4LOW. After much effort it finally popped out of gear and allowed me to put it back into 2HI, so at least I know it’s in the right gear. The engine will not idle by itself at first; I had to keep my foot on the pedal. After it warmed up it again seemed to run fine. Vaughn MacKenzie asked about the fuel shutdown solenoid, it did not move any further once the truck was started. Some questions were asked about RPM vs. speed. When driving the engine seems to rev fine, however the truck does not respond as I would expect. If I step on it while moving along at 10 or so, the engine will rev quickly to 2200 RPM and the truck will creep along and slowly attempt to gain speed. The trans gear indicator in the cab does not always indicate the actual gear it’s in. Sometimes yes sometimes it’s off one location; I understand that this is not a big issues just linkage; however the fact that it’s not always the same is a bit strange in my experience. I cannot detect any unusual sounds just the engine and various rattles. As far as mix-matched ring and pinions goes, I don’t think so, they both look original and I have had a lot of experience with 4X4 and there is no bucking, popping, or chirping that generally goes along with drivetrain binding.
 
OK. Since the engine is revving but the truck isn't moving i believe there is a great deal of slippage in your transmission. If the transmission is in a lower gear than what the indicator shows, that is a normal part of an automatic transmission's operation. For example, when in 4th gear (Overdrive) it should shift from 1st through 4th on its own. If in 2nd or 3rd gear it should shift into that gear but no higher. My guess is that it will probably drive a little better right now in 3rd gear than 4th.



Sounds like your transmission is already trashed so i wouldn't worry about damaging it any worse right now. I'm not familiar with Chrysler transmissions but your torque converter has probably been slipping, creating tons of heat and may have transferred metal shavings throughout. I recommend you swap in another transmission and transfer case, most of it is probably too trashed for a simple rebuild. Make sure to change the transmission cooler and flush the lines before installing a new transmission.
 
I had an auto in 1997 Dodge Diesel that sat for awhile and the throttle valve cable/lever was frozen from rust. It is on the driver's side of the transmission and it controls the shift points in relation to throttle position. When mine was stuck it was stuck in the OD position, which caused the truck to have no power. I would try to pull a hill and it would barely make it, especially if it was under some time of load. I took it to the local transmission shop and they took the throttle valve linkage apart and cleaned the lever where it goes into the transmission and lubricated it. They also changed the fluid and the filter and adjusted the bands. What a major difference. If your truck sat for awhile I would have it checked. It could be stuck in the OD position. If it isn't that then it is definatley a transmission problem. Pete
 
i dont know if my 01 is the same but mine wa running the same ,it was the transmission output sensor that was bad. good luck
 
y-knot said:
First i want to say how sorry I am that this is your very first introduction to the Diesel World. Trust me, when I say that when they are running right, there is nothing better then a diesel. You have been taken, and I would assume you are not the first or last that E-bay will hear from. The guy that sold the truck was a pro, he very carefully worded the description to meet the E-bay requirements, while at the same time avoiding the truth. For instance, when you thought he talked about the transfer case and front axle, he simply stated the 4X4 system was good, which according to E-bay police, isn't covered. very slick.

Let this be a warning for all that shop and buy on E-bay. While E-bay may be a good place to get items cheaper they thru retail establishments, it is also a great place to get scammed by cheating con artist.

The next thing about this purchase is the trucks past use..... it was a snow plow. There is nothing worse,(and nothing one should avoid more) then a snow plow truck. They only operate in the worst of conditions, when most people are safe at home. They see huge amounts of salt, both from the highway and from the back of the truck... . no-one should buy a snow plow truck and expect it to not be fully rusted out. It can not help but to be rusted, it lives in salt.

If you have ever plowed, you know the life the truck lived. Constantly going back and forth, moving from forward to reverse..... constantly... and never waiting for the truck to stop before shifting gears... which is a huge killer for an automatic. This same movement also kills the transfer case, which has probally seen way to much action. Check the oil in it and see what you have. This types of trucks are usually not what you would want to invest your hard earned money in. They see a life time of abuse and neglect, and are only sold once they are truly worn out.

I do feel sorry for you, while you may sort out the trasnmission problem and the transfer case problem, those two parts are very expensive to replace and install. I can't help thinking that this truck will be a constant reminder of why you should not have bought it, for once one item is fixed you will mostlikely have another turn up. If it was me, Id work on the obvious replacement of bad parts, spend some time getting the sander running, clean as much rust off and hit those areas with some undercoating, and sell the thing, hoping you get enought to break even. Good luck.

I may be wrong but this could be handed over to the feds as it is above $5000 and it crosses State lines. If not I feel like going fishing with concrete boots.

Good luck.
 
I dont know if this helps you any but I have an auto transmission and transfer case bolted together in my shop from a 2000 4x4 I would sell the package for 1000 plus shipping. They have 86,000 miles on them and work good. I was gonna do an auto conversion in my truck.
 
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