Archived Rotor stuck to the HUB!!!

[JasonCzerak]

So today JFaughn and I started to replace my axle joints and ball joints. We ran into a problem that the rotor will not come lose at all!. These rotors have never been replaced and are original with 83,000 miles (3rd set of pads... . ).

Mr. Faughn suggests we do not need to remove the rotor by it self and can be careful and pull the hub with it (to not damage the ABS sensor). I wouldn't be against this if I wasn't planning on replacing the rotors and pads soon with a set of EGR's.

So my goal is to find out if anyone has any tricks to separate a severely rusted together rotor from the hub.

 

[bmoeller]

Are the rotors in or outboard of the hub? The 2nd gen are inboard, and have to knock out the studs first.

Have an air chisel?

May need to warm things with a torch. Just don't get the parts to hot. Don't want to over heat the grease in the bearings.

 

[scootergmc]

Heat.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...discussions/183401-ems-hub-install-color.html

 

[jtisdale]

If the rotors are stuck to the hubs that bad, I cant imagine how the hubs will come off.

 

[ParsonsDRW]

you may need a puller. if you can get your hands on one. you could use it to pull the rotors and wheel bearings. you are also going to need a ball joint press.

 

[RSimmons]

Mine is an 02 3500 4x4. I removed the hubs with the rotor intact to change the ball joints. My rotors are outboard and you do not need to remove the studs. When I changed the rotors later, it required a 3lb sledge and the opportunity to vent some frustrations . I would just pull as a unit for the ball joint job and deal with just the rotor later when you are ready to replace them as they may break or chip when you start beating.

 

[JFaughn]

We got the passenger side done , but the drivers side , the flange on the inside of the knuckle is not breaking lose , we have a wheel puller , an impact hammer , big hammer [ using an impact socket on bolt head to get more reach & keep from deforming bolt head ] used the PS trick , not getting the bearing ***. & flange to move at all , now the bearing ***. is separating ?
Thanks John

 

[RRees]

Try this. On my 99 2500 (yeah I know it's different).



Put the 4 bolts back in that hold the wheel/unit bearing on. Only leave about 3 or 4 threads showing.



You'll need jackstands to support the front axle (which you probably have already).



Wheel chock the back wheels. Put in park if auto and parking brake.

Start truck and slowly turn the steering wheel and use the force of the bolts against the axle housing to break the bearing loose.



It's a long shot, but should work.



Good luck.

 

[JFaughn]

I mentioned we did the PS trick , this is really odd , rusted on so bad that we had the bearing hub assembly come apart , took the outside hub / bearing off , then put the bolts on the flange from the outside [ not the inside were you can do PS trick ] put a puller on against the axial cranked & hammered , even the last 1/8" faught us .
But got it done .

 

[DCreed]

the guy that did mine was cursing too, i had them liberally coat the hubs with antiseize before reinstall to help prevent future problems. glad to hear they put the rotor on the outside in later years having to pull the hub was a DUMB set up! i hear they did it in the rear brakes too so u have to pull the axles! "I bought a CUMMINS ,it came in a Dodge!

 

[JFaughn]

A true free market , we good go in & say you want Cummins eng. , a ford 1 ton chassis , an allison 6spd auto , a chev body , ect. what ever .
Then there would be real competition , all the manufactures would try to make a good product , instead of slouching on very old ideas , to make higher profits , instead of higher quality products .

 

[JasonCzerak]

I told John then during re-assembly of my front end.



I'd gladly pay an extra $100-$200 on the sticker to have anti seize applied to all typical service-able parts.



In our case tho the rotors and wheel studs would be the only parts to get that since the "non-greaseable" hubs, ball joints and u-joints are supposed to be "life time". Or "prevent maintenance" as John says.



I had maybe 3 caps that had a tinny bit of grease in them on the front axle. The drive shaft after only 50,000 miles (entire shaft replaced around 30,000) was so dry on a small incline (like twice the average driveway) the truck wouldn't roll back!



On the bright side here, I'll only have to fight with one rotor when I do the brake rotors.