2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission rotting brake lines

[SBall]

ive never heard of this or any product like it,,,do you spray it on or brush it on ?? how long does it last?? thanks for all replys,,,

I've started using Fluid Film as of two years ago. You can buy it large quantities and brush it on, or spray it on if you warm it up and/or thin it with vegetable oil. You can also buy small spray cans of Fluid Film which makes application much easier in tight areas. The spray cans have some sort of interesting carrier agent that enables it to be sprayed. As for how long it lasts, considering how difficult it is to clean your application paint brush, it probably provides some reasonable protection through a winter season. If you spray it on, watch that you don't get any on your brake rotors.



Regarding those rusted brake lines, as I mentioned in a previous thread, if you use an exhaust brake and drive sedately (generous following distance) and/or unloaded, you may lose a service brake circuit and not even realize it! This happened to me this year where one of my brake lines had rusted through and I didn't even know it until my inspection mechanic discovered it. He noticed the brake fluid covering part of the fuel tank as it was leaking out under pressure. In my case, the exhaust brake was doing most of the stopping, and I suspect the brake line had ruptured within days of my inspection appointment.

 

[Joe Mc]

Hey Don,



A few years back I noticed a rusty line between the tank and frame. I didn't have to remove the tank, but it would have made the job easier. I was able to disconnect the line from the rear load level sensing device and then from the front behind the left plastic wheel house cover, drop it down in the front, pull it forward, disengage the plastic clips holding the line to the frame, move the line back again. Then I had to lift the front part of the line above the front diff and pull it out the front of the truck. Sitting on the ground with a spool of the correct size line, bender and plenty of wire ties I began by making the first bend, two wire ties to help keep the new line from moving as I continued bending rearward, I just kept going like this and wire tying every 6" or so until I reached the last bend. I made sure to leave some extra line (about 1-2") on each end just in case I screwed up the double flare on the end. And of course, don't forget to put the line nuts on before you make the flares. #@$%!:-laf



Once the new line was all bent and tweaked a bit to match the old line all I had to do was fish it back thru from the front to the back, snap it back into the plastic mounts, and make the front a rear connections, then bleed the system. If I ever have to do this job again, and I most likely will, I'll go with the stainless lines - DUH! Should have used in the first place = live and learn.



Have you figured out how to squeeze tailpipes up and around that 8-3/4 with those big tires on the back of the fish yet?



Catch you later on.

 

[fest3er]

... i was able to take a quick look at the rear,,,and the lines running to each rear caliper appeared to be plastic coated,,,from the factory...

Don't forget to inspect the height sensing proportioning valve if your truck has one. The short line on mine popped a week ago, rusted through. The lines to the wheels look good, though. The last 6" of the line behind the tank to the new short line I just installed is pretty rusted though. That'll be the next to go.



And speaking of that valve, has anyone fabbed a replacement stud to re-attach the valve's control arm to the rod connected to the axle? I noticed mine had fallen off not long ago. And can that control arm be removed from the valve for modification? I was thinking I could drill through the rod end and just put a simple shaft on the control arm. Or I could do as someone else here did, and just wire the control arm in place.

 

[The patriot]

It's kind of hard to picture from your description, but if it's the same thing as mine, I just wired the height valve to the frame.



As a side note: I was out yesterday and blew another brake line. #@$%!

This time it appears to be at the point where the back of the cab meets the bed.

I can tell already... ... this winter is going to suck!#@$%!#@$%!

 

[fstfish66]

thanks for all the replys,,sorry i have not replied in a while,,,,my work schedule is rough,, and im researching a new lift pump ,and weird problems with the cruise control,,,and horn,,all at once,,when it rains it pours,,, i dont know any thing and never heard about these type of trucks having a load height sensor ,,???? what in the wolrd would that be for ???



not sure,, but after i get this lift pump deal worked out,,some time the internet offers too much info,,it all gets blurry after a few hours of researching,,, i will order the pre bent stainless kit,,,and have a local shop do the brake lines,,,only one shop in town that wants to work and get dirty,. ,,,,but ide per fer to do it my self,,,summers hasnt started and my list of stuff to do vehicle wise is getting longer and longer,,,



JOE,, no have not had a chance to look in to getting pipes between my rear tires on the barracuda,, need to figure out how im gonna get the trailer turned around to use as a garage,,so i can get to work on the 40 dodge,,and get my bike lifted in the air,,,,bike has a few issues too,,geez will it ever end,,,,trade the diesel in on a new hemi truck,,,,sell the barracuda buy a new challenger,,,and just go to work,,,keep paying,,,,yeah thats the answer,,,,LOL

 

[kenny61]

Mine popped in the engine bay end of March last year.....



#ad

 

[The patriot]

That sux!

I had a dodge caravan panic stop in front of me a few years back.

It caused my brake line between the front calipers to bust.

The front license plate on my truck is 1/4" steel plate attached to the front receiver behind the UTE bumper.

It "F"'ed up the caravan pretty good. I dont think he'll be opening the back door any time soon. :{

I couldnt see any permanent damage to my truck. The license plate was scratched a bit. :-laf

 

[kenny61]

I rear ended a Chevy P/U that had a trailer hitch on the back ,Hence the heavy center damage. . I did about 18 0r 20K of damage to his truck. It buckled his bed and maybe the frame

 

[kenny61]

I did my repairs my self and picked up a fabfours with what I saved.
#ad

 

[The patriot]

A bumper befitting on the truck.

I lost about 1 MPG with my bumper.

Did you notice a difference?

 

[kenny61]

I dont really pay attention If I can stick to my bi-weekly fill ups Im happy. What I do notice is a drop in the winter

 

[fstfish66]

ok its been a long time since this topic,i hope some oen see,s this,,, i purchased prebent stainless steel lines for the complete truck ,front rubber hoses and 3 rear kevlar hoses to replace every thing,,,got them thru a place that was recomended on this site,,,EGR not a bad guy to deal with it seemed,,a little confusion on delivery date,, opend the box and figured ide look to see what i had,,,,murphys law follows me around,,,, it appears im missing 1 line from the master to the p,p valve,,and the lines for the rear axel arent even close,,not bent properly,,,and too long,. the fitting ends stick out past where the orignal ends are and i wouldnt be able to use the line/hose end hold down clamp,,unless i bend them all up to make them appear shorter,,,,any one have this problem with prebent lines ?? thanks in advance

 

[MHalloran]

On my 96, last year, my brake lines (along with my fuel supply & return lines from the tank to the engine) finally gave out due to corrosion. I bought a roll of pliable brake line with required fittings & the double flaring tool from NAPA. Stuff worked well. You can bend that tubing to a 90 without kinking. Fuel lines I used the marine hose from Foster"s. (inspect yours if you haven't already. . good time to replace it) Get a couple buddies to help you to remove the truck bed... easier access. . 6 or 8 bolts, (i forget exactly) & misc tail light wiring. While you're in there take a look at the top of the fuel sending unit in the tank. . mine rotted out also... replaced... WOW we can really get carried away here ... nuthin' lasts forever... a lot of shops decline this kind of job cuz its somewhat of a PITA. . not too bad tho just time consuming... good luck my friend... Mike

 

[Glen Pratt]

I installed the EGR kit on my truck. All stainless steel including the fittings. The kit fit very well. I ordered mine from Circle Track Supply.
CircleTrackSupply.com - The OneStop shop for all your race car parts and equipment.
Very fast shipping.

 

[BigDaddy]

Give Glen a call and make sure they did not send you a 2wd kit. There is a difference.

 

[David_VT]

Double flare tool? Is that all I need for tooling beyond a cutting tool?
I bought one from some place and could never get the double flare to align correctly.
My truck has been sitting out this winter due to no brakes... I am really motivated to buy the correct tool. Thx folks for mentioning napa, I will try there tomorrow.
I just watched the utube videos on the napa double flare inline tool. Surely looks better than my first try. .

 

[The patriot]

I got a double flare tool at the local parts place. Works good and didnt bust the bank. Made in USA to boot!

Sears also has one for $65~ish.

If you get the brake line that MWilson mentioned(Nickel-copper), flaring isn't a big deal if you remove the sharp area from cutting it, and square it off with a swiss file.

 

[mwilson]

I got a double flare tool at the local parts place. Works good and didnt bust the bank. Made in USA to boot!



Sears also has one for $65~ish.



If you get the brake line that MWilson mentioned(Nickel-copper), flaring isn't a big deal if you remove the sharp area from cutting it, and square it off with a swiss file.

Yes, Copper/Nickle Alloy brake tubing is the stuff.



Also, Seth and I have learned to remove the old line in one piece (as much as possible) and placing it side by side with the new line, zip tying them together every 6" or so as you form the new one to match the old one. It will come out very close doing it that way, especially handy trick on the line that goes across the front crossmember that supplies the RF brake.



Mike.

 

[MHalloran]

Double flare tool? Is that all I need for tooling beyond a cutting tool?

I bought one from some place and could never get the double flare to align correctly.

My truck has been sitting out this winter due to no brakes... I am really motivated to buy the correct tool. Thx folks for mentioning napa, I will try there tomorrow.

I just watched the utube videos on the napa double flare inline tool. Surely looks better than my first try. .

I bought NAPA's double flaring tool. Just gotta make sure you really tighten the clamping part that holds the tubing in place or else it will slide through the jaw that holds it. Tool works nicely... .

 

[fstfish66]

ok got the stainless kit from EGR straightened out,, i called and they made and shipped out the missing lines same day service ,,had the replacements in 4 days,,,had to reshape the rear axel lines,,was told they are generic,,,well last i knew all dana 60s were shaped the same,,,thats the only gripe i have about the kit,,,



the lines all fit nice,,,the hoses glen made fit good,,,i put on a new master,,,all new ss lines,,,rear braided hoses,,,and front hoses,,,should of just did braided on the front too i guess,, and valvoline syn fluid,,, when we reached up for the rear line comming out of the frame above the rear end,,the old line broke in half,,,i got lucky for once,,



the rear ward line wasnt rusty along the frame in front of the tank,,,just behind where it comes out of the frame over the rear axel,,, now on to the clock spring to fix my cruise and horn. ,,,,then ill do all the U joints, and shock,,,should be good for another 10 years,,,,thanks every one for your input,,,