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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Routine Maintenance

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Westach boost/egt gauge

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Starter stuck on

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I do my own routine maintenance, and yesterday after changing the fuel filter, the engine started and quit. Something I always dreaded happening, and I am very careful to bump the starter several times. I started the procedure for getting the air out of the system, but found I could only access one of the three injectors that were called for in the manual ( got it last week!) I own a fair collection of Craftsman wrenches, etc but the intake manifold and the rear engine lifting hook blocked the other two called for in the manual. Am I missing something here? Am I supposed to disassemble a lot more than the manual calls for? Or are there special spanners for this? I don't have any formal training in mechanics, just an interest and a few unhappy experiences with auto dealers/mechanics. Besides, I like taking care of my things and I'm not pressured by a shop manual and a ticking clock so I'll take as long as it takes to do it right. Another thing, while I was under the hood, I dicvovered why my "puke" bottle was rattling - it isn't secured to a bolt on the front of the engine like the manual says, it is tied to the high pressure line for the power steering with a wire tie. Did Dodge cheap it after the manual was written? This site has been invaluable!
 
Larry,

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If not it sounds like you have a weak lift/transfer pump. You should check the fuel presure at the filter, even if you can hear the pump running it may be weak and that could be why it didn't prime. If it's bad replace it asap, as this is what cools the injector pump which is an expensive thing... I know :) I had one with a bad casting that let go after I put on a box. As far as the injector lines go, I don't think it would matter what one(s) you loosened up, it'd just run rough til it got all of the air out of the other lines. Would it be easier with the valve cover off? When I did my injector install I didn't have any special tools and I got all of the lines off pretty easily.

Corey
 
Larry,



how many times did you bump it?



when i have changed mine or my buddies or uncles filter i have bumped them anywhere from 12 to 24 times. they somtimes start up. and somtimes start and die. so i will bump another 6 to 8 times and try again . somtimes bumping again after that then they will start. i aint no pro but i do start to worry if they will start somtimes. i did notice it will take more bumps if i dont fill the canster half way with fuel. i havent had to bleed any injectors yet just a lot of bumps somtimes. hope this helps.



ed
 
I had the same trouble when I replaced my LP and filter. I finally bumped the starter and ran up front and cracked #1 until the bubbles stopped. The LP should run for 30 sec. I had to crack #2 aswell & I could not do #3 but it ran fine. I don't know how the pro do #3?
 
When I have the filter out and after I've cleaned the wif sensor I will refill the fuel canister with a small squeeze bottle a little less than 3/4 full. Slowly slide the new filter down and in reinstall the cover and bump the starter twice and the truck doesn't even hickup!:D



Works for me every time!:D Phil
 
This is actually my second lift pump - the first one quit at 45 miles. (That's correct, no zeroes!) I do have a fuel pressure gauge - just not installed yet. I'm ashamed to say I've owned three gauges for probably over a year now and never got the guts/time to replace banjo bolts and D&T my exhaust manifold, etc. Now that I'm unemployed/retired or whatever, I'll run out of excuses. I was actualy looking at the wiring diagrams last night to see what wire I tie into to get the gauges to dim with the rest of the instruments when I mount them on the A pillar. I have all the parts, just need a kick in the pants. Maybe I can find that on the TDR site as well!
 
I did the same as Sixpack. After removing old filter and cleaning the wif sensor I filled filter housing 3/4 with fuel, put on new filter, tightened filter housing cap, bumped starter once and it fired right up. It ran rough for 10 seconds. That was it!:D
 
Dimming gauges.

You can use a Add-a-circuit to give you a fused power supply for the power to dim the gauges. I used fuse #5 (Illum) and it works great. ;)
 
Same here! Changed filters twice so far and no start-up problems. I don't know if the manual says to put fuel back in the canister... but it just made sense.



Mike
 
Larry,

I tied my gauge illumination into the ash tray light curcuit. My gauges dim with the rest of the dash. The ash tray light wire is a rather small gauge wire but it has been a non issue for me. There is not much load with the illumination only.

powered gauges like my transmission temp needs an alternate key switched Hot wire in addition to the illumination circuit.
 
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