rubber fuel line

[DMAC]

I am a new member, and is there a trick to changing the rubber fuel line that is behind the manifold and fuel filter. This line is really testing my patience. also is there a part number for this line.



Thanks

mac.

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

Welcome Mac, good to see more Texas boys in here. All you need is 19 inches of 5/16 fuel line, you can purchase it at almost any parts store. First, remove your fuel filter for access. Losen the small hose clamp on the hose right under the manifold and slide it off. Get under the truck and pull the steel line off the hanger that is lokated on your top left hand side transmission bolt, the bolt that holds the transmission to the motor. After you have pulled the steel line off the holder, get it down at your level under the truck so you can work with it. MY guess is this is where the line will be cracked, where it connects to the steel line. Put your new line on, and run it back under the intake manifold. I chose to use a long hose and go around the fuel filter, this prevents sharp bends. If you have any questions, pm me.



Willie

 

[bill threlkel]

DMAC

Yea that hose is a bear best to remove fuel filter to gain access to area between pump and block. Then with a short screw driver you can unscrew the clamp. With all the wires and hoses in the area it is even hard to see what you are doing, I had to replace this line when i was on a trip to the coast with hardly any tools. Luck i always carry a extra fuel filter it was about time to change it any way.

Bill

 

[JGK]

Hey, guys. After replacing the hose, do you have to do anything special to purge the air out of the line or will it take care of itself?



Thanks,

Jay

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

All you do is fill the filter back up with clean fuel, or I use auto transmission fluid, and you are good to go. Takes care of itself.

 

[tschwab]

Originally posted by SLewis

All you do is fill the filter back up with clean fuel, or I use auto transmission fluid, and you are good to go. Takes care of itself.

I wouldn't use auto transmission fluid, could clog the CAT if you still have it on... . use diesel fuel.



Yes there is a primer/pump on the drivers side of the block, which I have to prime to get fuel flowing and start the truck after I change my fuel filter.

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

tschwab, been using transmission fluid forever, on both my cummins, and my old 7. 3 ford, no problems yet. I also put a quart of transmission fluid in every other time I fill up, heard it cleans the injecters. I forgot to mention that I don't own anything with a cat on it, inspection is not a problem here in Bosque County Texas.

 

[LarryB]

Filling the filter with unfiltered fuel/atf/whatever is a poor idea. The injection pump and injectors are made to such tight tolerences that even the most minute piece of schmouts can raise hell and cost you a whole bunch of clams for repairs. It can actually ruin the entire engine by causing a leaky injector to burn a piston. (that's real bad) Just do it the pain-in-the-a$$ way and use a broom handle to pump the primer a couple of bazillion times to get the air out. That's what it's for. If you just have to run some atf, pour it in the tank.



You may think I'm full of crap, but then, I won't be having the problem either.



FWIW

 

[illflem]

SLewis, I'd rethink your practice of using ATF. Using it is a hold over from the days when ATF was just oil without all the modern additives and diesel fuel treatments weren't widely available. Modern ATF is designed not to burn and will leave ash deposits that score cylinder walls. Best to use an additive that is designed for diesel fuel, there are many available and they are cheaper than ATF to boot.

 

[DMAC]

Thanks for the help, and slewis you will probably hear from me. will try this weekend if it don't snow.



Thanks

mac.

Oo. Oo.

 

[redram]

To slewis,



If you're bound and determined to continue wanting to put something other than a fuel additive in your diesel, suggest you consider a 2 cycle TCW III engine oil, because it has an ashless additive system and is designed to be burned. If you use a synthetic two cycle TCW III type oil, it will be almost 100% ashless including the baseoil part as well as the additive portion.



Good luck.