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ruff idle (APPS sencor?)

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04.5 ... APPS P2127.... Any parts in the USA?

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P0148 High Pressure Common Rail (HPCR) Fueling Error Checksum

This one is the rail pressure sensor.



P0251 CP3 Pump Regulator Control

This one is the FCA.





Since you have 2 disparate codes and stumbling have you checked all your grounds and battery cables for good clean tight connections? Have you had the batteries load tested to verify they are both good?



Your truck is also suspect for the AC compressor control wire chaffing on the tubes or brackets which will causing rough running and intermittent errors.
 
P0148 High Pressure Common Rail Your truck is also suspect for the AC compressor control wire chaffing on the tubes or brackets which will causing rough running and intermittent errors.

do you know ware to look for the chaffing on the wires for the a/c compressor control wire ?
 
do you know ware to look for the chaffing on the wires for the a/c compressor control wire ?



Passenger side of engine compartment. Follow the wire from the AC compressor back to the main harness and look at where it can rub on the AC lines or other metal parts\holddowns.
 
got a new rail pressure sencor and a FCA in the mail to day from Geno's, going to try the rail pressure sencor first to see if all the problem's that i have ben haveing was related to the sencor. and not the FCA and if it still does this problem then i will put in the FCA.
 
put the new rail pressure cencor and it did not help and today i put in a new FCA and it seams to have made it worse it is now stumbbling and then it is not like before but more often
about how much does it cost about to have the cross tubes retuqued?
 
when driving down the road when the tuck stubles my dad say's it will puff a little clowed of black smoke when he flowed me home from a road test after i put in the FCA
 
got off the phone with the dodge dealer shop and they told me that the Cp3 is doing some thing with the fuel and is getting air into the system and causing the problem and the say'd the pump need to get replaced and the total price was going to be about $3,850 for a new pump, a COV, and the labor to get the all done.

i am not going to pay that kind of price at a dealer when i have a diesel service shop that is willing to do the same thing for about $1500. 00 and tare down my pump and see what went wrong with my pump and maybe rebuilded my for a lot cheaper price yet. the only thing that is bad about this is i will not have my truck for the weekend or all this week .
 
I will see what I can do to speed things up..... Our Pumps have such demand I cannot Make them fast enough... If it s urgent I will let that 60 go. .
 
I will see what I can do to speed things up..... Our Pumps have such demand I cannot Make them fast enough... If it s urgent I will let that 60 go. .

To TCDiesel i thank for all of the help that you have given to me. I know you gave me a lot cheaper price for the pump but there would be a three to four hour drive to get up to you. and i am not willing to take the chance of driving up there and the pump quitting on me on the drive up, or have the pump damage something else in the motor. and i do not have the time or space at home to do the work of putting in your pump as the garage at home is not as big to fit the hole truck in and close the door.


I will be going with the local diesel shop that has a pump on hand and is willing to to tare down my pump and see what is wrong with mine and see if there is a cheaper fix than just replaceing mine. they want me to bring my truck down this thursday so they can work on it over the weekend and have it back to me by monday after noon. for about $1500 and if a new pump is not needed it will be a cheaper price. this diesel shop has been working on a lot of diesel pump's for farm tractor's to the on the road semi trucks. they have been doing this service for a long time.

the name of the shop is La Crosse Diesel Service of LaCrosse, Wisconsin:)
 
got the truck back today and it is running very good. it never ran this good for a long time. and it never ran this smooth before this repair.

hopefully got the problem fixed the the cp3 pump was going out and was bypassing to much fuel and was making the right amount of fuel pressure for it to run right. there was material shavings in the filter housing from the return from the cp3 pump. and the cascade valve was also bad
and needed tp be replaced.
 
The return (Low Pressure Circuit) only connects to the filter housing. . Both the low pressure side of the Injectors and pump use the same line to return fuel to the tank... Its impossible for any material or fuel to enter the filter with the return line.
 
UpDate

just got my truck back from the dealer yesterday because i had the stubling problem come back, the bank's unit that i have kept popping up the cranksensor code and so i bought a new sensor for the crank. I put it in and it seamed to help for a few day's of driving and then it was back again of the very next warm day. so i pulled the bank's unit and then that same day i took the truck for drive with my mom and dad and sister and the stumbling was very bad it was stumbling so had some time's it would shake the truck so hard i was thinking it was going to take out a ujoint or something in the transmission when the tc was lock in. and it was kicking up too code's and the code's are P0016 and the other one was P0341 if i remember the number's right!!!

the thing that the dealer found out it was the remote start was the problem!!! When the remote start was put in the place the put it in tapped in to the wires that come from the cam and the crank sensor's for a tack lead to sense if the motor was running when i used the remote start to start the truck. so good by to the remote start system. the spot ware they tapped in to the wire was sottered and that was it it was not taped or covered with any to cover it up or protect the wiring from corrostion from the weather. The lead from the remote start had corrostion up the wire about 8" and the wire that was tapped had corrostion about 3" to about 4" in each direction on the wire. so they removed the wire from the remote start and cut out the bad wire area and put on a heat shrink tubing and sotterd in a new peace of wire and used the heat shrink to protect the new joint's in the wire.


so i hope this was all of the head ake that i was getting from this truck!!

so if your truck is stumbling and start's fine and some time's it will run fine for a short or a long time and then the stumbling come's back, and if you have any thing added to the truck that tapp's the factory wiring, just check the spot's ware it get's tapped for corrostion it may affect what is being handled by that wire like a Signal from a sensor like a crank sensor!!!!!!
 
remote start removal to cure idle surge?

I have been chasing a similar problem. Idle surge when in park, drive or reverse. Didn't know that there was a remote start unit in the truck ( bought used) and when I had a stereo system installed they said I was in luck as there was a remote starter in truck. Purchased another remote for it and went on my way. From day one truck has a slight surge to

the idle. I have been checking FCA, APPS and even considering fuel pump replacement with an aftermarket product.



I am going to have the remote removed and see if it helps.



The idle surge seems to be a common problem as I find it through my forum searches.



Thanks.



2003 Dodge 2500 SLT Quad cab 4x4

auto trans
 
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