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Archived Running Lights Dead, Can't Use Truck

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Archived What's this code?

Archived tach and a/c not working

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My running lights went dead today. The headlights work, but the running lights will not. I can not drive my truck in the dark until I get this fixed and I need to go somewhere tonight.



First I checked the fuse and it is good. So then I put my test light the connection where I tied my gauges in for lighting. I am getting nothing there, as in when I pull the switch out one click nothing turns on. No running lights and no dash lights. The other day my dash lights went out and I messed with the switch turning it back and forth and they come back on. Now nothing will work. What has me puzzled though, is when you pull it out on the first click with the door open the buzzer still comes, and if you pull it out to the second click the headlights still come on. But still no dash or running lights.



I pulled the front of the dash off to take the swicth out, but I cannot figure out how to get the switch out. I looked from the bottom up, but still do not see the way. Do you think I am on the right track thinking it is in the switch? Although the buzzer still comes on with the first click and the headlights still work with the second click. I forgot to add it will still work the dome light also.



One last thing, the hot wire running down to the fuse for the dash lights has no juice. Does this get supplied from that switch? I cannot see up in there far enough to figure it out. Please help, I am stuck except for daylight hours and daytime is getting shorter fast. Bill
 
Your on the right track Bill. The headlamp switch is most likely melted down. The switch does supply power to the dash light fuse. To remove the switch the instrument cluster bezel needs to be removed, it's one piece from the headlamp switch over to the right side of the radio. Once its out you will see the three screws for the headlamp switch mounting plate. Remove these and pull the switch and plate out far enough to flip it over. You will see a silver button on the bottom of the switch. Hold it in and pull the knob and stem out of the switch. This will expose the nut that holds the switch to the bracket, you will need a large phillips to remove it. After you have the mounting plate off disconnect the electrical connectors and examine them closely. Any discoloration or deformation and the connector will have to be replaced along with the switch. If you do a lot of trailer hauling you may want to install a relay to take the load of the running light off of the switch.

HTH's

Paul
 
Thanks for the help. I got the cover off and the 3 screws out. I even got to the plate you push and pushed it, but I never though of trying to pull out the stem when I did it. I do tow a trailer multiple times weekly, what type of relay are you talking about? I have a horse trailer and a gooseneck flatbed that I pull and they are covered in lights. Thanks Bill
 
When I worked for the dealer there was a recall on some of the second gen trucks that had us installing an overlay harness with a standard ISO relay to take the running light load off of the switch and putting it on a seperate battery feed from the fuse box. My memory is a little fuzzy right now after my daughter's birth Monday so I can't remember the part number, maybe someone can help us out here. I do know that a couple of people adapted this package to the first gen trucks. The connector on the headlamp switch is a standard configuration so this is pretty simple to accomplish.

If you need more info, let me know and I'll see what I can dig up.

Paul
 
Take a look here for more information on the Dodge wiring harness overlay for trailer towing applications where the factory running light relay was not originally used (i. e. , non-trailer tow option package trucks). The early Rams were prone to melting down headlight switches if trailer running lights were powered through the headlight switch circuit. Maybe some of this information will help even though your truck is a 1st generation.



Rusty
 
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