Runningboard lighting

[MCates]

I'm installing lights on my running boards, b ut have run into a problem in finding a location that will keep the installation clean. I want to avoid tapping into the back of my light switch directly as much as possible.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[JWChessell]

Just did the same job about 5 days ago. Took the hot wire from the running board lights all the way back to the harness about 18" from the left rear taillight assembly and tapped into the taillight wire there. On my '03 it's pink with a blue stripe.

 

[SHobbs]

Not sure what kind of light you will use, but I recommend L. E. D's. I have 6 on each side of my running boards that I got from www.led-r-us.com. Part #'s 1274-A are the amber (yellow) ones that are an exact match of the OEM clearance lights on the 2nd gens. They ran me about $6-7 each and they are bright. Part #12611 is the base mount for the lights fro around $3 each. With these lights there is no need for a ground to each one. The base mount has a wire for the power and the ground comes from the screw on one side used to hold it down.



Being that I have a dually I tied into the clearance lights on the fenders and all that was needed was the power wire.

 

[MCates]

Thanks for the suggestions, I actually routed from rear to front and hid the wiring in the front fenders. It was a little more time consuming, but it was worth the effort. I tied into the corner lamps for running light power( middle wire on each side). I used grounding points near the batteries to complete my installation. All my lights are L. E. D. and look great. Updated pictures will be available soon when weather clears up again.

 

[phloop]

Any one think to use the 4 pin trailer plug at the rear of the truck? I just hooked up some lights to my mud flaps and did not want to tap into the stock wiring. I have the trailer tow package which gives me the 7 pin plug at the bumper and the 4 pin plug under the truck. As i will never use the 4 pin plug under the bed that seemed like a good place to plug into. Quick, easy and causes no damage as it is plug and play.



And as a second thought. As the extra lights are hooked up to the trailer plug, the trucks computer will not act up when it detects the extra draw caused by the added lights.

 

[MCates]

I've been running the LEDs now for a couple weeks and weather is finely clearing up. I haven't had any problems with the computer, as voltage drop with LEDs is minimal. Pics to be posted very soon. This weekend is finishing wiring up my 7 prong trailer connector and guages.

 

[steved]

I got LEDs on my boards too... went to the local Tractor Supply Company and got an "extension lead" that was for a ford truck made by Hoppy... this adds 24inches of length to your flat-four trailer harness at the rear of the truck. I spliced into the "extension" to get the tail lights (brown wire IIRC), and ran a single wire up one side of the frame, jump from that side to the other via the Tcase crossmember.



This way, all my "extra" lights are on the trailer circuit... dodge already got me for cutting into the harness at the cigarette lighter (and effectively voiding my warranty on the dash cluster, stating my Connex 3300HP caused backfeed)... so by doing this, it runs the lights through a higher capacity, fused circuit.



steved

 

[JWChessell]

Steved: VERY GOOD POINT about the electrical system warranty and use of the 4-pin trailer plug rather than tapping into the wiring system, as I did. I'm taking your advice and changing mine to the 4-pin plug this weekend. Thx.