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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Runs too cold!!!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Split second cut out

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Could It Be TPS

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Hey guys, I have 1996 2500 4x4 that came out of florida. It never seems to warm up, no matter the type of weather. I've tried 3 thermostats, all factory. It will warm up to about the 2nd mark on the gauge but takes a while to get there and never goes any higher. I don't quite understand what would cause this. :confused: Thanks
 
Welcome to my world !! If you do a search you will find about a basket full of discussions on this very thing. My 96 runs 140 -185? something like a yo-yo. I played thermostat roulette, waste of money. I have not run a fan ---at all, for 4 years and keep the front end sealed up tight all winter. When it is WAY below zero I insulate the intercooler, take 100% intake air from engine compartment and button the front up like Mommy does a child! It still takes forever to hit the first 180 cycle with all that.

If yours does not reach 180 replace the temp sending unit would be my first suspect. If you have played the T-stat game, it will it least hit 180 before it yo-yos.
 
what would the temp sending unit have to do with the motor warming up? Are you thinking maybe my gauge might be wrong?? Thanks for your input!
 
if everything has ben working fine till now i would suspect the thermostate it is pobably stuck with the fan on (open)get a cummins t stat and install it that is what i did when my 98 did that and it fixed the problem if not then go to the engine temp sending unit on back of motor don't use teflon tape on it when you put on a new one.
 
I have a david brown 1200 diesel farm tractor and you can run it all day in the summer and after you shut it down can hold your hand on the block,the temp only goes a little over 100 dont know why? sorry for hijacking the post but wanted to throw it out there.
 
Check the block temperature with an infrared thermometer.



I have watched my temp gauge do the windsield wiper act for years. I flush my coolant every two years and the year before last when i buttoned it back up the temp gauge barely got to the first line and stopped there, period. I then went thru the thermostat swapping routine... . still no windshield wiper action on the gauge. sending unit checked out ok. I purchased an infrared thermometer and shot the block..... 185-195 degrees everywhere. Satisfied me, so I stopped worrying about it. Interestingly, over the last year or so the windshield wiper action of the gauge has gradually returned... . the block temp stays right around 190. The IR thermometer has come in real handy over the past couple of years..... worthwhile purchase and pretty cheap too, about $60. regards, steve whalen
 
To prevent the thermostat from cycling too much use Cummins stat p/n 3934373. It is a slow opening stat and therefore won't cause the " windshield wiper act ". You will also need 1 of each rubber p/n 3925466 & 3927305. Shadrach
 
What Shadrach says!

Also, look up previous posts for a method of drilling a small bypass hole in the thermostat. That also works, but it does slow warm up in very cold weather.

Rog
 
I had the "slow open model" in my 96 and it ran about 160F max. I don't know what the deal on the 12 vale models is--my 04 plants er on 200 and that is where it stays. I have to bundle up the 96 AND my wife when it goes below zero. Cab heat is marginal and you have to run the fan at low speeds or it blows cool. I have flushed the heater core and swapped hoses back and forth to see if one direction was warmer than the other. Even clamped the little bypass hose shut and didnt see any difference. Just have to apply the tricks I learned trying to keep warm in the OLD gassers.
 
A very late update to this thread.

I just installed a Cummins p/n 3928499 thermostat in my '96.
It definitely goes through the yoyo routine. Too bad I didn't find this thread earlier!

As far as the "vent line" from the stat to the radiator hose elbow - there is a one way valve at the stat end of that vent line. It lets air escape from behind the stat when the engine is shut off. When the engine is running, water pressure keeps the valve closed.
 
My 96 runs 140 -185? something like a yo-yo.



The yo-yo routine with the thermostat on these trucks is normal. This was covered in the TDR about ten years ago when lots of drivers were seeking advice on it.



I didn't know that you could "fix" this "problem" until I read this post, but it sure seems like a good way to go if it bothers you.



I learned from a local Dodge driver that you definitely want to use the Cummins (or presumably the Dodge) thermostat. He used an auto-parts-store brand and it stuck closed and warped his head. Expensive repair.



Good luck.
 
Dennis,



As I understand it, you don't have a "yo-yo" issue, but rather your truck never reaches operating temperature on your dashboard gauge.



If I had tried three different factory thermostats with the same result, I think I would suspect the gauge.



Good luck.
 
... He used an auto-parts-store brand and it stuck closed and warped his head. Expensive repair. ...



I must have the luck of the Irish. Shop put a Bumper-to-Bumper t-stat in my truck one October. I drove out to the west coast and back without a problem, though it *did* seem to take a while to warm up at times. It wasn't until winter that I discovered it would take many miles to warm up even down here in sunny VA. I guess the BtB part never closed. Put a Cummins t-stat in and it was good as new.
 
My 98 12 valve has NEVER done this. Guess I'm lucky.

It'll get to 190 on the real hot days if I run it REAL hard (90++ MPH) for a while.

I have a UTE bumper and the temp tends to run a little hotter with it.

When I'm hooked up to the TT it goes to 190 and stays there all day.
 
I run a Napa 190 deg big block dodge thermostat and it hold almost rock steady at 190, give or take 5 deg's, whether I'm towing at high elevation in hot weather or city driving. Faster warm up too. :D
 
Wow, wish I had this problem. I'm on my 3rd thermostat in under 2 years. I was just driving back to Wyoming from Salt Lake City, temperature was about 106 outside, climbed a mountain and had peaked at 230 degrees with the fan locked! I've even overheated in the winter, 4 wheeling in the snow. I've actually boiled over a few times. It takes at least 5 minutes to get up to 180 but it is hard to keep it below 210 after that. Maybe the Ford radiator is less efficient.
 
Wow, wish I had this problem. I'm on my 3rd thermostat in under 2 years. I was just driving back to Wyoming from Salt Lake City, temperature was about 106 outside, climbed a mountain and had peaked at 230 degrees with the fan locked! I've even overheated in the winter, 4 wheeling in the snow. I've actually boiled over a few times. It takes at least 5 minutes to get up to 180 but it is hard to keep it below 210 after that. Maybe the Ford radiator is less efficient.



MMcCallie,



Clean your radiator. By now it has probably built up some crud in the fins, especially if it's ever gotten any oil on it.



The popular cleaning method is with a pressure washer, blowing the water/steam from the back to the front.



I'll bet a good cleaning will solve most, if not all, of your problem.
 
Put in a brand new radiator just last summer. My buddy who drives a Freightliner and I pulled our front ends apart and cleaned everything at the same time. I use the pressure washers at do it yourself car washes fairly often. Can't figure it out.
 
I experienced the same thing on my 98, (not warming up). Turns out somewhere I read mentioned this happens when the lift pump fails. I replaced the lift pump and sure enough, it fixed the problem.



Food for thought
 
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