Rust Oleum Flat black is the ticket!!! + one other question

[roperteacher]

Just re-painted my diff cover with the rust Oleum FLat black as suggested by another TDR member! Works and looks GREAT!!!! My question is, I drove on the hwy for a while got home, and held my hand to the diff cover. It was warm, but I did NOT have to remove my hand due to heat... I guess this means it is running cool enough???? THanks!

 

[bombero]

While you were under your truck did you paint everything thats not painted, ie springs, druive shaft, tranmission, front end components, ect. Now is the time to do it. You wont regret the work or $$

 

[Midnight]

Has anybody painted their manual trans? I wanted to do it earlier but forgot about till i read this forum. I think i'll use black tremclad. Any thoughts?

 

[klenger]

This reminds me of a Gomer Pyle episode when he waxes the bottom of the sarg's jeep.

 

[rbattelle]

Originally posted by Midnight

Has anybody painted their manual trans? I wanted to do it earlier but forgot about till i read this forum. I think i'll use black tremclad. Any thoughts?

There are some who have painted the transmission. I think Rust-Oleum will hold up to the manual transmission temps.

 

[MChildress]

Used the rust-oleum bar-b-q high heat paint on my trans. and brake calibers. Looks great but I get hungry while under the truck now. Its flat black and suppose to take more heat.

 

[roperteacher]

I only pained the rear axle and did not paint anything that was not previously painted. I figured it wasn't painted for a reason. I will leave the trans and that alone, none of mine have ever rusted there anyway! "

 

[R.M.THOMPSON]

JUST WATCH OUT FOR OVERSPRAY , been there / done that !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Yo Hoot]

Here's a cool one.





Locktite Extend in a blue spray can. Spray your exhaust manifold. Once the heat kicks in it looks to be painted black!

 

[y-knot]

You need not worry about the rear end temperature, they normally run in the 140-150 range.



Yes it is a good ideal to paint all the surfaces that Dodge and there cheap accountants failed to do. I think people are getting less and less truck for there money, any area that they can save . 20 on, isn't safe. The rear end cover and differential housing both front and rear are both in need of a paint job. The drive shafts always bothered me, I just can not see letting them rust away. Same goes for the hitch in the rear, they rust up in no time and many one this forum have experienced failures, wonder why?

Yes paint the trany, mine was painted for me by the good folks at ATS, it's a brilliant combo of pink and purple. It looks great next to the blue drive shafts and polished mufflers.

 

[rbattelle]

I chose not to paint the driveshafts or transmission. Everything else, I did paint. Why not those items? I don't have a good reason... just decided not to. I guess I just think some parts are actually better-looking unpainted. I know, call me crazy.

 

[sbrennan007]

I heard once that painting the drive shaft was not a good idea, as it could throw it off balance due to the weight of the paint.



I know, I know, the weight of the paint? That's what I thought also at first.



Thats the reason they don't paint the Space Shuttle main fuel tank any longer. They found that they saved alot of weight by not painting it.



Just a thought...

 

[RM]

hot to touch

140=about the threshhold of pain (able to hold hand on piece) 140-212=too hot touch/wont fry spit 212-300=frys spit 300=discolors paint if your can hold your hand on the diff it aint to hot ron

 

[rbattelle]

Originally posted by sbrennan007



Thats the reason they don't paint the Space Shuttle main fuel tank any longer. They found that they saved alot of weight by not painting it.

They don't paint it because it costs over $10000 per pound to orbit on the shuttle.

 

[KO_RAM]

I painted what I could reach of the transmission from underneath. The top side is rusting a little already, but it's too hard to get at, and who sees it anyway



I used Rustoleum Black Semi-Gloss on everything under mine. It seems to match the original paint the best. I also did the drive shafts and everything else that didn't have paint or looked a little thin (axles, steering gearbox, hubs, differentials, etc). I keep a can around and touch up anything I see whenever I'm under my truck.



Like R. M. Thompson said, watch out for the overspray. I painted mine when my truck was less than a week old. That's the best time to do it, while everything is still nice and clean under there and there's no rust. After I got done however, I noticed the paint on the top side didn't feel smooth any more I didn't think I'd get that much overspray on the top. I would recommend covering it with a blanket or something before you start spraying underneath. I ended up using Clay Magic on mine to get it back to that like new feel

 

[exfuzz01]

Less truck for more money..

You are absolutely right about getting less truck for more money. My 2001 had some features that my 2004. 5 does not come with. , ie, glass holder near the upper info. center, no wheel well liners, doors do not seem as solid when closing. I checked with the parts department. They want $90. 00 for a set of wheel liners and another $94. 00 to install them. . ????

Other than that I love the new truck ... . Oo.

 

[gonzo2]

Install the wheel liners yourself. It will only cost you a six pack- two for you and four for the onlookers.

Actually only takes 15 minutes, all hardware and instructions included.

 

[claymike]

I sat and watched my 17 year old son install them and I drank the beer. :-laf

 

[Yo Hoot]

Here's my pictures and some BS along the way...



Wheel well install article







2004 2500 4x4, QC SB SLT, HO 305/555, 48RE

Hummer Wheels W/ LT315/70R17 BFG's, Gutted Intake Tube/Silencer Ring AWOL, 5" RIP Straight Pipe 6" SS TIP, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, K3LA Locomotive Horn



Had a Duramax

2004 DODGE PICS AND INFO

 

[DF5152]

leave the aluminum stuff alone paint everything else. i personally like the satin finish