rust proofing for new truck, suggestions?

[BIG HIPS 3500]

Just ordered a 2018 RAM 3500 dually, nervous as hell (not gonna lie).....any way I've been in and out, and all over the web trying to get a solid answer about current practices and products concerning RUST PROTECTION. There are plenty of conflicting opinions and old info. I live in Maryland where they spray and salt like crazy, and I'm telling ya... I had an '02 2500 that got destroyed, broke my heart. This truck is costing me plenty, and I'm trying to make this one last as half as long as the cummins will, so.....

1. Oil, Wax, or the stuff that hardens like paint (talking about the proofing that gets applied to the nooks and tuff spots thru the weep holes)
2. Undercoat?
3. Does this void power train warranty?

I appreciate your input, as the TDR has saved my backside before!

 

[DonFitzwater]

Have a read. Don’t let the title of the thread scare you. The Ziebart seems like good stuff.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/258647-Undercoating-VOIDS-Warranty?p=2509746#post2509746

 

[JR]

See if you have a Krown dealer near you. It definitely prolonged my 98 and kept it in good condition considering the area I'm in ?Great Lakes region).

https://www.krown.com/en/warranty

 

[The patriot]

I've been hearing/reading/youtubing this recently.
They say ATF is an excellent anti rust, as is melted vaseline.

 

[CRodi]

See if you have a Krown dealer near you. It definitely prolonged my 98 and kept it in good condition considering the area I'm in ?Great Lakes region).

https://www.krown.com/en/warranty

This one gets my vote.

It actually works as promised. I think your biggest challenge is finding a local shop, as it's a Canadian company. I know there's some along the Ohio, New York, Michigan border towns. Not sure about Maryland. The website JR provided is a good starting point.

Congratulations on your new purchase and good luck.

 

[KPear]

Stock frame/undercarriage coating seems to be pretty decent on the new trucks. I wouldn't fiddle with it.

When you do start to see rust appear I would sand it off, put some primer on and then paint affected sections or the entire undercarriage. There are plenty of companies that make such products.

Also, there is fluid film which is preventative rust inhibitor of sorts....apply that 1x-2x a year.

Rust will happen in certain climates no matter what. It's not a matter of stopping the rust, but rather slowing it down.

 

[JR]

Stock frame/undercarriage coating seems to be pretty decent on the new trucks. I wouldn't fiddle with it.

If you saw what 5 year old vehicles in this area look like that don't get any kind of treatment I think you'd change your opinion.

 

[KPear]

If you saw what 5 year old vehicles in this area look like that don't get any kind of treatment I think you'd change your opinion.

I live in NY...I'm very familiar with rust problems.

Fluid film and occasional cleanings make sense. The stock frame paint is decent enough to start out with. As it starts to degrade, I see the value in the doing a thorough prep/primer and repaint. But doing that on a frequent basis is not warranted nor is it good for your truck. A true, OEM-spec rust removal and repaint requires significant work and effort...most of the aftermarket service shops that offer those services (Ziebart's) simply spray a sealant over all the existing rust and gunk, which actually can accelerate the process in some cases.

I see no point in putting an aftermarket paint or sealant over a brand new truck's frame, especially if it's going to be a company that half-***** it and cuts corners. Drive the truck as is and do the sand/prime/repaint when the rust starts to build up. Rust is going to happen no matter what; applying an aftermarket treatment isn't going to change that.

 

[jgillott]

I live in NY...I'm very familiar with rust problems.

Fluid film and occasional cleanings make sense. The stock frame paint is decent enough to start out with. As it starts to degrade, I see the value in the doing a thorough prep/primer and repaint. But doing that on a frequent basis is not warranted nor is it good for your truck. A true, OEM-spec rust removal and repaint requires significant work and effort...most of the aftermarket service shops that offer those services (Ziebart's) simply spray a sealant over all the existing rust and gunk, which actually can accelerate the process in some cases.

I see no point in putting an aftermarket paint or sealant over a brand new truck's frame, especially if it's going to be a company that half-***** it and cuts corners. Drive the truck as is and do the sand/prime/repaint when the rust starts to build up. Rust is going to happen no matter what; applying an aftermarket treatment isn't going to change that.

I think that if you took a look at my trucks after years and years annual applications of Ziebart, you would have a different opinion. The thoughts that applications such as Ziebart or Krown will somehow accelerate rust is simply a false theory.

This was posted in the other thread linked earlier. But, here is the frame on my '07 after living it's entire life in PA. It was treated at Ziebart the first day I owned it and every year since.

Please go take a look at an untreated 11 year old frame from NY, PA, Ohio, or anywhere else in the rust belt and compare it to mine.

 

[toot]

Here are photos of my Michigan '02 Chevy with the box removed that was taken in 2014.

and the hitch

This truck was not rustproofed or undercoated beyond what came from the factory and I believe I did a pretty decent job keeping it washed & rinsed of salt. Note that the trucks cab corners and rocker panels are still original and looking good at that time (they started to rot through in '16).

The effects of salt can be easily seen on any vehicle after the first season and gets worse from there. My '16 Ram 3500 went to Ziebart before it was a week old and ever saw salt for the first time. I believe it is not perfect, but I have confidence it will at least help. I did have a door panel off a couple of weeks ago to put the side window back into its clips and I specifically looked at the job Ziebart did at getting the door interior coated and it looked very good to me. I give them credit for knowing what areas need to be protected. I did remove the plastic inner fenders when it went to Ziebart so they would have better access in those areas. I am talking Ziebart only because that is what is near me here on the west side of the state. The Ziebart I used normally has a 6 week or longer backlog so there are a lot of people using them around here.

 

[BIG HIPS 3500]

Jgillott and toot, as far as your body panel weep holes are concerned, does it look like any of them are clogged?? and who did you guys go to for application? I'm told the couple of ziebart's in my area suck, so I'd be willing to go on a road trip to get it done right, if I decide on the waxy stuff. I'm rubbing up against 50, and I guess I'm getting lazy. I don't mind paying somebody to do something if it's done right.

I'd like to thank everybody for the input.....anybody else have any experience with this subject??

 

[jgillott]

Jgillott and toot, as far as your body panel weep holes are concerned, does it look like any of them are clogged?? and who did you guys go to for application? I'm told the couple of ziebart's in my area suck, so I'd be willing to go on a road trip to get it done right, if I decide on the waxy stuff. I'm rubbing up against 50, and I guess I'm getting lazy. I don't mind paying somebody to do something if it's done right.

I'd like to thank everybody for the input.....anybody else have any experience with this subject??

I have absolutely no issue with any of the Ziebart applications that I have had. All of the weep holes and drains work perfect. Absolutely no negatives about the process or the franchise I use.

I use Ziebart of Wexford here in western PA. They are approx an hour from my house and do an excellent job. I even have them do my Mercedes. I trust them that much,.

 

[BIG HIPS 3500]

I have absolutely no issue with any of the Ziebart applications that I have had. All of the weep holes and drains work perfect. Absolutely no negatives about the process or the franchise I use.

I use Ziebart of Wexford here in western PA. They are approx an hour from my house and do an excellent job. I even have them do my Mercedes. I trust them that much,.

looks like about a 5hr run from where I am, I may be taking a road trip in mid April (expected delivery time)

 

[JR]

Please go take a look at an untreated 11 year old frame from NY, PA, Ohio, or anywhere else in the rust belt and compare it to mine.

I just helped a family member buy a vehicle of that vintage. It blew my mind the level of degradation under nearly every vehicle we looked at in this area. Every single unibody I poked my head underneath had the pinch Joints where you jack the vehicle up rotted so bad they couldn't even support the weight of the vehicle and were totally crushed. Lots of other evidence of severe corrosion as well. We ended up going 2 hours south to get away from the lake where they don't get nearly the weather we get up here. World of difference.

 

[Jeff Knight]

There is a Krown dealer in York PA if that is closer. I don't know anything about them. Might do a search to see what people are saying about them.

 

[JR]

The Krown franchise is controlled pretty tightly. Mandatory classes to retain certification every 2? to 3 years and the customer reviews go directly to corporate. Not impossible to find a bad dealer but they make it harder by keeping a finger on the pulse.

 

[jgillott]

I just helped a family member buy a vehicle of that vintage. It blew my mind the level of degradation under nearly every vehicle we looked at in this area. Every single unibody I poked my head underneath had the pinch Joints where you jack the vehicle up rotted so bad they couldn't even support the weight of the vehicle and were totally crushed. Lots of other evidence of severe corrosion as well. We ended up going 2 hours south to get away from the lake where they don't get nearly the weather we get up here. World of difference.

Absolutely. The used market here is just awful if you are trying to find a solid vehicle. You either have to go out of the area or you end up searching for months for something good.

Most of the new car dealers here don't even mess with selling used cars or trade in vehicles. They go strait to Perry auto auction. Funny thing there is, if you go down to the auction, all of the dealers bidding on those cars are from out of the area. They come here, buy stuff dirt cheap, take them out to the area and sell them to people who wonder why their 3 or 4 year old used car is starting to rust in Alabama or Mississippi, etc.

 

[CRodi]

I just helped a family member buy a vehicle of that vintage. It blew my mind the level of degradation under nearly every vehicle we looked at in this area. Every single unibody I poked my head underneath had the pinch Joints where you jack the vehicle up rotted so bad they couldn't even support the weight of the vehicle and were totally crushed. Lots of other evidence of severe corrosion as well. We ended up going 2 hours south to get away from the lake where they don't get nearly the weather we get up here. World of difference.

Came across the same situation when I was helping my widowed Aunt look for a vehicle, except these vehicles were only 3-4 years old. The first thing I did with every vehicle was drop to the ground and look underneath. I couldn't believe the condition after just a few short years. The salesmen were puzzled (probably didn't like it), but tough. I guess I was supposed to look at the interior and the fancy options. She (probably, because I talked her into it), settled on a low mileage 2 year old Toyota Rav 4. It had the factory wax type rust proofing and was the best of the bunch.

Shortly after purchase she had the Krown treatment done. It's been 3-4 years and it hasn't degraded at all. She's been happy with it so far. Haven't heard any complaints yet of rusted out brake/fuel lines and hand brake cables, brackets or other rust related issues. Believe me if she had, I would've heard about it.

It's the least expensive, and most beneficial thing you can do to your vehicle. I've been using it for over 30 years and it's something I do automatically with out thinking about it.

Just in case any one is wondering, I get absolutely zilch for recommending this product, nor am I connected in any way. No discount, commissions, T shirt, coffee mug or pat on the back. It's one of the very products that I've tried over the years that actually work.

I'm just sharing my experiences with rust issues (I could go on for ever) and would like to pass this information on to the members.

 

[BIG HIPS 3500]

looks like people are using a salt neutralizer in between snow storms??? is this legit? anybody using this stuff?

 

[JR]

looks like people are using a salt neutralizer in between snow storms??? is this legit? anybody using this stuff?View attachment 101896

Honest question....Are you going to get underneath your vehicle in inclement weather to apply this? Keep in mind all the packed snow and ice making application inconsistent, and horribly annoying dripping once pulled into a garage.

I can honestly and unequivocally say I would not :-laf....but then again I am already spending an average of 10-14 hours a day outside.