Rust proofing?

[Big-D]

If your going to have it done I would suggest you do it before all the dirt collects. I have a '99 and didn't have it done for in Washington our winters don't require salting of the roads. I did paint all the surfaces that were exposed to include the drive shaft, but nothing else. Dealer tried to talk me into uncoating, but felt they never put enough on to make it worthwhile. Dave

 

[Randy J]

I for one would really recommend against any aftermarket rustproofing. You are more likely to get rust around the holes they drill to install the rustproofing, than you are to begin with. The factory corrosion protection is better than Ziebart, Rusty Jones, or any others can give.

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Randy Jones, San Antonio, TX, rdj@gvtc.com, 98 1/2 QC, 4X4, American Racing BAJA's, 285/75/16, Amsoil throughout, Superstar 3000 export radio, Firestik antenna with fender mount, Fire-ring cable

2000 VW Jetta TDI

 

[Missouri Mule]

I agree with Randy. I have read many cons and less pros about after market under coating.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

[buckeyebrute]

So, should I get my beloved truck rustproofed or not? I have heard the many pros and cons about this subject and was just wondering what you guys think and how some of your trucks are fairing in the war against rust. Thanks.

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2001, 2500, 4x4, Automatic, 3. 54,

 

[roycrown]

You live in OH, not FL or TX. If you plan to keep your truck any length of time say 10 years or more, get it rustproofed. If you only plan to keep it 5-7 years or less, then you can do without it. It will be the next owners problem, and it will be one.

While the body may escape rust for 5-7 years or so in OH, the frame and suspension will be rusty after about 3 winters.



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'99 2500 ST 4X4, 5spd. , 3. 54, black/drftwood, camper pkg. , carpeting, rear slider, air dam, DC diamond plate running boards and rear flaps, Jacobs E-brake, Draw-Tite reciever, Tekonsha Voyager, 2wd Lo Kit.

 

[Randy J]

Originally posted by roycrown:
You live in OH, not FL or TX... the frame and suspension will be rusty after about 3 winters.

True I live in Texas now, but I spent 26 of my 36 years in Missouri (right in the rust belt), and another 5 in Minnesota. Also, I work in the Automotive body repair industry, and I would never put the aftermarket coatings on my vehicles. If the frame gets rusty in anything up to 7 years, you can take it back to Chrysler, they have a 7 year rust through warranty. If you do get it done, make sure they only do the bottom - don't let them drill holes to install any coatings in the body. Either way, good luck.




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Randy Jones, San Antonio, TX, rdj@gvtc.com, 98 1/2 QC, 4X4, American Racing BAJA's, 285/75/16, Amsoil throughout, Superstar 3000 export radio, Firestik antenna with fender mount, Fire-ring cable

2000 VW Jetta TDI

 

[Deezal Man]

Two things to look at. First is how long do you keep a vehicle? Be honest, most people say they will keep their new vehicle "forever"... . 5-10 years at most, its been replaced.

Second is are you concerned about the extra weight? Depending upon who and how its done, you can easily add over 100lbs to the truck. Chances are you could care less about that little bit.

Living in PA, I think its beneficial to rustproof areas they can reach from under the truck. Specifically panels where rocks stones are constantly doing a sandblast routine.

If you do nothing else. Take off the rear bumper, and have that sprayed really well. That is one place rustproofing makes a HUGE difference.

As for drilling... . I agree that it is better to leave things alone.

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC 285-75-16's on Alcoa's. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

 

[Diesel Junkie]

I live in indiana and rust is a problem with any car.
I personally like ziebart but would suggest you check their work after it is done.
As far as rusting around the holes they drill I have never had that problem. I kept my last truck 10 yrs. It was free of rust when I sold it. It will also eliminate a lot of the road noise in the cab.
For the money it seems to be a good investment to me. I'm sure if the last truck had a rust spot it wouldn't have sold to the first person that stopped the first day I put the sign in the window for the asking price without negotiation. It also had 167k miles on it.
Good luck with your decision, Scott


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'01 3500 qc 5sp, 4x4 white w/ green graphics dark tint, flaps, tonneau,painless, Uniden Grant LT w/3' glass K-40, back up lights,silencer ring MIA.
'91 Regal 260 at Dale Hollow

 

[Cooker]

On a new GM vehicle you void their 5 year exterior warranty if you have your vehicle rust-proofed. Ziebart, at least around here only has a 3 year warranty. That has to mean something?

Anyway, I don't like rustproofing. Perhaps on a brand new, no miles, vehicle it might be ok. My father still has a 1989 Chevy 2500 that he picked up in November 1988. The truck has VERY little rust, and I consider Michigan a state that loves to throw on the salt, and he isn't even anal about washing it often.