2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rust treatment ?????????'s

[EMD-Run8]

I'm going to be getting some mild salt damage fixed on this truck. It spent some time in Maine yet thankfully the exposure looks to be pretty light. The main thing is that the truck never had any splash guards or flaps on it and so the very bottoms of the front fenders have been pelted pretty bad. The rest of the underbody and frame look OK but they have some spots where rust has flaked the paint somewhat and some of the cast parts are showing a little. My question is this... ... . What have you guys used that works? I've looked at Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, Rust Bullet and Por-15. Any other ideas?

 

[DMcPherson]

por-15 is an excellent product. if you want to do the rest of the truck I do reccomend this stuff called waxoil. its from brittian and works very well. it comes in a big pump jug and it is just like it sounds. its oily wax that covers everything and dries up. the stuff is great and pretty cheap. you could do a search for it online, or I can actually get it

 

[Katmandu]

I recently used Rust Bullet on some significant rust areas on an old 85 F150.

I was amazed at the results!! RB adheres/covers the areas like nothing else! I HIGHLY recommend using it.

Of course, surface prep work is the MAIN thing you NEED to address BEFORE using anyother products. Scrap and sand down the rusted areas as BEST you can.

 

[EMD-Run8]

Does Rust Bullet come in black?

 

[Signal73]

I want to try to find a 3M product Ive heard of called Rustfighter or something like that. I believe its like a Wax that you would apply say, to the inside of your door welds, etc. keeps the water off the metal. Ive had some good results with POR 15 along the way also.



DMcPerson, Be sure to stop by the Regional forums and check out the CT meets! Jim.

 

[DMcPherson]

^I sure will. thanks. and if you use por-15 remember it is what it says. por=paint over rust. it is chemically activated and needs rust to adhere.

I did a dana 60 that had sat outside, diddnt even clean it. well the dirt anyway. painted it and beat it with a hammer (big one ) and it never flaked.

 

[GMincher]

I use a product called Fluid Film. It's similar to Waxoil. It's used in industry in wet/salt environments. I'm a nut, I roll around under the truck with a little paint brush and just wipe it on seams and joints and any rust spots I can find. I put it in a little sprayer and spray it in the door bottoms, rockers, over the rear fender wells, in the tailgate. I'm really anal... I HATE RUST!

I buy it in gallons at the local John Deere dealer. Gemplers also carries it in qts. , gallons, and 5 gallons.

It also works great as a penetrant. Not as fast as Gibbs, WD-40, CRC, but really works.

 

[EMD-Run8]

I've seen several comparisons between POR-15 and Eastwood RE and they appear to favor the Eastwood product.

 

[JoeMartin]

I've got a restoration shop and I'm not a big fan of the por at all, eastwoods not to bad, there is some stuff made by SEM products thats an acid base, you spray it on and it neturalizes the rust and turns black, works really slick.

After that I usualy follow it up with some stuff simailar to the wax-oil but its made for aircraft its called LPC and its for preservation and dissimilar metal corrosion... .

Just another thought...

 

[DMcPherson]

I used to do restorations. if you allready have rust then yes you want a rust convertor, like sem or others. it is also chemically activated by rust and changes the composition of rust into a hard metal. just clean ans flake or scale out first. then you can fill it, or chip guard it.